jockey wheels - free spin?

[Nikos Zinnatwist]

hello people

I have a Sora rear deralieur on my road bike. The jockey wheels was giving a little bit of a whistle, so I decided to spray on wd40 (i know this was bad, but i need quick solution and it was to hand)

Since this the whistle goes away, However, I noticed the jockey wheel does not spin freely, is this correct?

Thanks for your attention to my problem.

Nikos

 

[jimboalee]

Them jockey wheels were whistling at your 'gorgeous body'

Now you've squirted them, they've took the 'ump and shut up.

They'll also turn nasty and grab any speck of dirt that floats past and shove it between the bush and pin.

 

[02GF74]

unless I am corrected. jockey do not need lubricant - I made that mistakei n past.

remove the cage plate - will be 2 allen head bolts, and clean jockey wheels of all gun and reassamble.

note that on shimano shifters the jokey wheels are not the same so note whcih one goes whre.

someone will now come along and explain why the wheels are different (look to be identical on a SRAM).

 

[peanut]

yes you will need to grease the inner metal bearing surface and the bolt shank or they will squeak and sieze. Any metal surface that moves relative to another metal surface in operation will need lubricating.

 

[fossyant]

I generally blob a little grease in mine - just a little coating, but mine are the sealed type with ceramic bushes.

 

[RedBike]

There are loads of different types but generally they don't need to be greased.

Most are not metal, they're Nylon. Nylon, provided it's clean, has a very low co-efficient of friction when rubbed against metal. in this case grease will probably only pick up dirt and add friction. You could try a dry lube (teflon)?

The bottom jockey wheel is the tension pulley. The top jockey wheel is the guide pulley. The top jockey wheel (guide pulley) has a small amount of play/float in it to compensate for the fact the rear mech is rarely perfectly aligned with the sprockets.

 

[Davidc]

There are loads of different types but generally they don't need to be greased.

Most are not metal, they're Nylon. Nylon, provided it's clean, has a very low co-efficient of friction when rubbed against metal. in this case grease will probably only pick up dirt and add friction. You could try a dry lube (teflon)?

The bottom jockey wheel is the tension pulley. The top jockey wheel is the guide pulley. The top jockey wheel (guide pulley) has a small amount of play/float in it to compensate for the fact the rear mech is rarely perfectly aligned with the sprockets.

I'm pretty sure you're right RedBike, but I think they have a lubricant put on during assembly - otherwise as Peanot says they'd sieze.

The trouble with WD 40 is that it seems able to act as a degreaser and wash almost any lubricant off, so could leave the jockey wheels with none, just as it does with chains. WD40 must contain a lubricant as it stops door hinges from squeaking!

If the bike was mine I'd strip the jockey wheels down and put some teflon lubricant on, and then keep an eye on them afterwards.

 

[peanut]

Most are not metal, they're Nylon.

Shimano are metal
you must be talking about that other gruppo Campag
poor quality stuff , it will never catch on

 

[Mr Pig]

but I think they have a lubricant put on during assembly - otherwise as Peanot says they'd sieze.

Na, they won't. They're made out of combinations of metal, plastic, ceramic etc and run dry. I've had them squeaking before and a tiny drop of very light oil does shut them up but don't go mad. Too much oil and they'll gunge up.

It's a good idea to strip them apart every now and then anyway, give them a good clean. As has been said, the two wheels are not the same, one is designed to float from side to side slightly so the bearing is wider/different.

 

[peanut]

Na, they won't. They're made out of combinations of metal, plastic, ceramic etc and run dry. .

the bearings in shimano jockey wheels are metal .They require lubrication. They are supplied lubricated . The manufacturers recommend lubrication is applied when servicing.
It makes no difference what the metal bearings are fixed to or fixed in, all that matters is when you have a metal bearing surface that bears and rotates on another metal surface ( the bolt ) you should lubricate it .

Here is the servicing recommendations for Shimano rear derailieur from Park tools
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=76

 

[Bigtwin]

GT85 Teflon lube for JWs.

 

[Nikos Zinnatwist]

thank you for this informations

I have stripped the derailuer down, cleaned nicely, greased up the inner mechanism, lubed the bushes, reassembled and now I have like new.

A dirty work but I feel more of a man for doing it.

 

[peanut]

thank you for this informations

I have stripped the derailuer down, cleaned nicely, greased up the inner mechanism, lubed the bushes, reassembled and now I have like new.

A dirty work but I feel more of a man for doing it.

Excellent well done.

Now all you got to do is remove all the greasy hand marks from the the light switches, taps, stair rails and toilet seat and the kitchen floor and you're done

 

[Crankarm]

thank you for this informations

I have stripped the derailuer down, cleaned nicely, greased up the inner mechanism, lubed the bushes, reassembled and now I have like new.

A dirty work but I feel more of a man for doing it.

Pure co-incidence. Snap! I did mine while watching Wimbledon final yesterday. Stripped the derailleur down, cleaned jockey wheels and internal metal sleeves and re-greased with LM grease. Now as new. I wouldn't use GT85 and certainly not WD40 as these especially WD40 are very thin and in prolonged use act as cutting agents as I found out to last winter when using GT85 regularly took the surface of my middle chain ring and cassette. Now only use decent chain lube Finish Line Ceramic Pro which is brilliant as it actually lubricates and transmission is now so smooth and quiet.