SA 3 speed crank free play

[Dr pepper]

1st and 2nd on my AW hub have about a 1/4 turn of slack on the crank before drive gets to the rear wheel.
I cant remember as kid when I last had this kind of hub, is this normal.
I get why it would do this in first as I'd need to catch up speed wise before the pawls engage, however in second the hub should be 1:1 locked up.
Also a bit odd that the pawls driving the wheel are different for first and second, but the issue is the same.
I have adjusted the pull chain correctly.

 

[lenfield]

Is it one of the modern AWs without a neutral gear? They've got a driver instead of a cruciform clutch. It's got pawls on as well.

 

[88robb]

No, that much free play is not normal, especially in 2nd gear.

Since you've already adjusted the indicator chain correctly, the problem is likely inside the hub. For both 1st and 2nd gear to have the same slack, the issue is probably with the main drive clutch (the part that engages for 2nd and 3rd gear). It's likely worn or its spring is weak, so it's not engaging properly.

You'll need to open the hub, clean it, and inspect that clutch and its spring for wear.

 

[FrankCrank]

These hubs are known to give reliable service for decades, but if not used for a long time the oil inside can congeal and may cause an issue with pawls etc binding. A strip down may be necessary, but if it were me I'd first spray a copious amount of spray lube (ie WD40) into the hole where the 'pull chain' goes. These spray lubes contain a solvent, which can soften up old hardened grease trapped inside. Leave it to soak for some time, and then see if it fixes the issue. You may be lucky, it's a simple thing to try in the first instance. Good luck

 

[Big John]

It's not a big job to disassemble a SA hub gear if you follow RJ The Bike Guy on YouTube. You don't need to do a full strip down but you'd need to get to the pawls and get some GT85 on them. It depends on how handy you are with a spanner or two. I'm no engineer but I've taken a few apart over the years and as long as you systematically store the parts in the order they're removed you'll be ok. Maybe worth a try if squirting spray lube as suggested above doesn't cure the problem.

If you do disassemble then if you decide to remove the pawls there are some very lively and very tiny springs that if you lose you'll be stuffed. I'd leave them in situ and just spray.

 

[lenfield]

It could just be a kink in the toggle chain keeping the hub in neutral until the pedals are turned. It's best to check the complete gear cable assembly before pulling the hub apart.

 

[Dr pepper]

Thanks, and of course I've seen several of RJ's video's.
I stripped, ultrasonically cleaned and rebuilt the hub, I rebuilt it with the guts from another hub of a similar age (this was before noticing this issue, so it might be my fault).
I took it apart again and compared the shells to see if the pawl rings are different, they are not everything looks the same.
But I did notice that the clutch spring on the original is longer, and also has a cap on the opposite end to the clutch, so I tried swapping these parts but its the same.
Theres no evidence of wear marks on the clutch, theres some wear on the pawls but not terrible, and theres no jumping or clanking like you'd get with pawls letting go.
There is some weirdness with the shifter, going from 1st to second the trigger moves to nearly second when pushed, but then theres a delay before it settles into second proper, it could be the shifter itself I spose.

 

[Dr pepper]

Took it apart again, couldnt find anything worn or in the wrong place.
I do have an idea though, I wonder if I've been a numpty and havent put the axle back in central, wouldnt that throw out the chainpull alignment.
I always struggle setting up cones.
Does the axle protrude each side equally?, my version of the service guide doesnt mention it.

 

[lenfield]

The whole hub is built around the axle, the planet cage can only sit on it in one place. It's not possible to put it in wrongly. The drive side of the axle will protrude further than the non-drive side as the sprocket sits on it.

 

[Dr pepper]

I meant to say doesnt the axle have a particular position it should be in, more accurately how many mm from the cone locking nuts.

 

[lenfield]

The axle assembly is held in the hub's shell by the ball ring. Adjusting the cones doesn't move the axle, it just changes the friction in the bearings. Here's a video showing a complete strip down and rebuild of an AW hub. If there is no wear in your components and they are correctly assembled then the problem must be in the shifter or cable assembly.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea6krXSs-lc

 

[Dr pepper]

Yes that makes sense.
The slot in the axle for the clutch key also defines the position of the pullchain.
I'm going to try another pullchain later today and see if that changes anything.

 

[Dr pepper]

I think I've eventually sussed it.
Looks like I used SAE90 gear oil instead of 20 weight (3 in 1 Blue), I guess that makes the pawls move slower.
Doesnt really explain why the freewheel 'grabs' at the same 4 positions though.
I'll clean it up and re-lube and see if its diffo.
Could well have been my fault all along, it also explains why I dont hear the clicking in second, maybe its not just my age.

 

[Chris S]

I used to use Vaseline in mine. I now use lithium grease. Both work OK.

 

[lenfield]

Oil viscosity isn't that important in a low load bearing application like an AW hub. Any mineral oil will do.

Are you sure it's the hub that's at fault and not something like a worn chain-ring?