Jumping on smallest cog on cassete

[gbb]

Another theory, was the cassette take off ?
As it shifts through all the gears ok apparently, except the small cog, is the lockring situated correctly. I had similar once, unwittingly the small cog had slipped as I was tightening the locking, putting it out of position slightly.

 

[Jimmy Welch]

Well looks to me, after some stalking OP's other threads that these Chinese wheels 'Queen Bike' with 'Powerway 13' hubs haven't got locknuts per se.
He's had to bang the whole axle out, replace the bearings and replace.
So maybe the axle has been banged in ever so slightly too far from the drive side.
The hypothesis is that that means the smallest sprocket is a mm (say) too close to the dropout and the RD can't reach across that far even with the H screw unscrewed and the cable unclamped.

View: https://youtu.be/6yL3vqE1EX0?t=828
Shoulda stuck with Claris!

No this is my cannondale gravel bike different altogether this is cup n gone ball bearings shimano 105 and yep it's deffo a problem with me taking everything apart in one go I'm sure I took the bearing from both sides out axel the lot but even if it's gone back together slightly differently from original surely an adjust of the H and L plus a full indexing would smooth things out or am I bring too simplistic

 

[HLaB]

OP says jumping on the lowest sprocket only, so that points to the limit screw adjustment being slightly out.

Assuming it was set up correctly before that would be the last thing I change and risk messing things up. On a completely brand new set up only then would I go to that first. My first question/guess on an existing set up would be is it a new chain on an old cassette (or visa versa), if so that'd be my first guess. If its not my second guess would be a sticky cable.

 

[Ajax Bay]

even if it's gone back together slightly differently from original surely an adjust of the H and L plus a full indexing would smooth things out

You'd think so. Back to the slightly bent in hanger hypothesis. Which means, even with the H screw unscrewed and the cable unclamped, the RD can't reach across to line up with the smallest sprocket.
In your videos is the chain on the small chainring? If so this is extreme cross chaining.
Do you get reduced (or no) jumping when the chain is on the large ring?

 

[gbb]

No this is my cannondale gravel bike different altogether this is cup n gone ball bearings shimano 105 and yep it's deffo a problem with me taking everything apart in one go I'm sure I took the bearing from both sides out axel the lot but even if it's gone back together slightly differently from original surely an adjust of the H and L plus a full indexing would smooth things out or am I bring too simplistic

An adjust of the limit screws might have worked, that's why I said up post...if you got lucky.
But if it didn't, you now don't have the original reference point of the RD.

I wouldn't let it put you off tbf, you learn as you go. I remember the first time I overhauled a QR hub where you gave to leave a little play in the bearings. As you tighten the QR that play gets tightened up. I must have adjusted it 6 times until I was happy. Its all good, you're learning as you go.

Obviously you took the bearings out both sides, but did you undo both cones or just one side. One side shouldn't cause you any problem, taking both cones off risks them being slightly out of place when you reassemble.

In 40 plus years of cycling and DIY ING bikes, I've never had to touch the limit screws on a bike, ever. They're set perfect at the factory and I assume unless you replace an derailleur...you never really would have to adjust them

 

[Ajax Bay]

. . . you gave to leave a little play in the bearings. As you tighten the QR that play gets tightened up.
Obviously you took the bearings out both sides, but did you undo both cones or just one side. One side shouldn't cause you any problem, taking both cones off risks them being slightly out of place when you reassemble.
In 40 plus years of cycling and DIY ING bikes, I've never had to touch the limit screws on a bike, ever. They're set perfect at the factory and I assume unless you replace an derailleur...you never really would have to adjust them

"you [have] to leave a little play in the bearings. As you tighten the QR that play gets tightened up."
From one of the OP's other threads, there is an implication that they tighten the QR skewer by (just) turning the QR lever. I asked but no answer forthcoming.
"Obviously you took the bearings out both sides, but did you undo both cones or just one side? One side shouldn't cause you any problem, taking both cones off risks them being slightly out of place when you reassemble."
OP has said they "[took] everything apart in one go I'm sure I took the bearing from both sides out axel [sic] the lot". But with everything (including washers/spacers) where the hub ends up on the axle doesn't make a difference to the distance the smallest sprocket is from the RH dropout (to which the RD is fastened). The RH locknut is still hard up against the dropout. Would make a difference to whether the wheel/tyre is centred in the frame.
"In 40 plus years of cycling and DIY ING bikes, I've never had to touch the limit screws on a bike, ever. They're set perfect at the factory and I assume unless you replace an derailleur...you never really would have to adjust them."
This is not my (or I expect most chatters') experience: you have led a charmed (limit screw) life. When, during that 40+ years, you "replaced a derailleur" did you not have to adjust ("touch") the limit screws?
How can 'the factory' know what speed cassette an RD will be used for? (width of cassette differs)?
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/3573/bicycle-cassette-rear-chainrings-standards/
https://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html

 

[gbb]

"you [have] to leave a little play in the bearings. As you tighten the QR that play gets tightened up."
From one of the OP's other threads, there is an implication that they tighten the QR skewer by (just) turning the QR lever. I asked but no answer forthcoming.
"Obviously you took the bearings out both sides, but did you undo both cones or just one side? One side shouldn't cause you any problem, taking both cones off risks them being slightly out of place when you reassemble."
OP has said they "[took] everything apart in one go I'm sure I took the bearing from both sides out axel [sic] the lot". But with everything (including washers/spacers) where the hub ends up on the axle doesn't make a difference to the distance the smallest sprocket is from the RH dropout (to which the RD is fastened). The RH locknut is still hard up against the dropout. Would make a difference to whether the wheel/tyre is centred in the frame.
"In 40 plus years of cycling and DIY ING bikes, I've never had to touch the limit screws on a bike, ever. They're set perfect at the factory and I assume unless you replace an derailleur...you never really would have to adjust them."
This is not my (or I expect most chatters') experience: you have led a charmed (limit screw) life. When, during that 40+ years, you "replaced a derailleur" did you not have to adjust ("touch") the limit screws?
How can 'the factory' know what speed cassette an RD will be used for? (width of cassette differs)?
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/3573/bicycle-cassette-rear-chainrings-standards/
https://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html

Lol, maybe I have been very lucky. This is what drives my rejection of adjusting the limit screws as a first option.
I've had plenty of shifting issues for plenty of reasons, but never had to resort to adjusting the limits.. Perhaps I've missed a trick all these years, but nevertheless I've always managed to sort it out without adjusting limits.
(Never fitted a RD....ooh, actually, I did once )

It's also the thought process you adopt when working on equipment (maintenance engineer in a big factory)...don't wade in and start adjusting everything if you don't know what the root cause is. Stick to what was done...look at that, it usually is the root cause. Adjusting other stuff can compound the problem.

Equally, that's what the limit screws are for...maybe I'm just stubborn

 

[Jimmy Welch]

What I've done for now is adjusted the index so it stops and the second smallest cog so at least it can be used for my comute with the clang and when I can stiffen the sinews and summon up the blood to have another go I will