Jimmy Welch
Well-Known Member
I have a stand I was round at my pals house as I thought it would be a quick fix I'll get it up on the stand when he comes round at the weekend
Jumping on smallest cog on cassete
- Thread starter Jimmy Welch
- Start date
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I have a stand I was round at my pals house as I thought it would be a quick fix I'll get it up on the stand when he comes round at the weekend
Jimmy Welch
Well-Known Member
Haaa no if you use your phones camera on the screen it gives a mirror image
Jimmy Welch
Well-Known Member
View: https://youtube.com/shorts/jTp0F62imjg?si=RaoUNPIIT0RZcXGU
Here a video in the stand all thoughts welcome
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
It's the 'H' one.
Looking forward to a video of you securing the wheel in the dropouts using the QR lever.
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Jimmy Welch
Well-Known Member
No tried micro adjustment of the H screw makes no difference even released there gear cable completely still jumping I'm at a loss
As you have regressed the bearings, it could of taken up a slight bit of slack. Is there enough slack in the cable to allow the rear mech to move over, even by a mil or so to allow the chain to sit properly on the smallest sprocket.
Jimmy Welch
Well-Known Member
Hi when you say a bit of slack where do you mean . Even when the gear cable is released and there is no tension at all it still behaves in that way
Big John
Guru
If you've not got the cable attached and it's still not sitting properly/jumping on the small sprocket AND you've adjusted the H screw so it's allowing full movement then there are still a couple of things to look for. A slightly bent hanger, which can be checked with a hanger tool (a shop tool usually), or possibly some stiff links. That noise is so audible it should stand out a mile what's going on. Just turn the pedal SLOWLY and watch the links as they pass through the jockey wheels on the rear mech to see if some are kinked as they go through. If it's a hanger problem (you'll only know following a visit to your LBS unless you know what you're doing) then the shop will straighten it for you. Any stiff links can be removed yourself with a chain splitter tool. If in doubt check YouTube for guidance.
Jimmy Welch
Well-Known Member
Fantastic advice cheers I'll crack on with the stiff link myself and then lbs if it's a hanger
gbb
Legendary Member
- Location
- Peterborough
Were it my bike, the one thing that screams out is (I assume) it was fine before you serviced the hubs..,it's not after. The last thing I'd do is start adjusting everything else, if it was OK before, the problem lays in the reassembly of the hub or wheel placement in the frame (in all probability)
Once you start adjusting everything else...you (potentially ) double the problem unless you got lucky.
First I'd have taken the wheel out and refitted it, a couple times if neccessary, ive had this before, really cruddy shifting etc, refitted the wheel, away it went.
I've also mis- assembled a hub once, so it does happen.
Once you start adjusting everything else...you (potentially ) double the problem unless you got lucky.
First I'd have taken the wheel out and refitted it, a couple times if neccessary, ive had this before, really cruddy shifting etc, refitted the wheel, away it went.
I've also mis- assembled a hub once, so it does happen.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
Along @gbb 's lines, when you serviced the bearings, did you leave the drive side cone, spacer and locknut in situ on the axle?
With the QR skewer removed, is the same amount of axle showing beyond each locknut?
gbb
Legendary Member
- Location
- Peterborough
I did start to type exactly that but couldn't put it together coherently. I never take both cones off, you risk losing
the reference points and if you get it wrong, the cassette is then not where it was on the axle.
See, even as I read that
...but wot Ajax said, agree.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
I did start to type exactly that but couldn't put it together coherently. I never take both cones off, you risk losing
the reference points and if you get it wrong, the cassette is then not where it was on the axle.
See, even as I read that
Well looks to me, after some stalking OP's other threads that these Chinese wheels 'Queen Bike' with 'Powerway 13' hubs haven't got locknuts per se.
He's had to bang the whole axle out, replace the bearings and replace.
So maybe the axle has been banged in ever so slightly too far from the drive side.
The hypothesis is that that means the smallest sprocket is a mm (say) too close to the dropout and the RD can't reach across that far even with the H screw unscrewed and the cable unclamped.
View: https://youtu.be/6yL3vqE1EX0?t=828
Shoulda stuck with Claris!
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