Just when my blokeyness was reaching a peak, this happens! Electrical question....
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Levo-Lon
Guru
Live Brown to Red yellow in celing rose..as @Markymark has said ..switched live
Neutral Blue to blue or black..to ceiling rose
Earth green yellow to earth green yellow in ceiling rose..
turn off power to light ring main and use a torch
Neutral Blue to blue or black..to ceiling rose
Earth green yellow to earth green yellow in ceiling rose..
turn off power to light ring main and use a torch
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Don't you want the one with the red sleeve to go to the live brown as that's the one from the switch? Otherwise it would be permanently on? IANAE though
The rest of the wires are ones that pass through as its in a ring to other lights.
swee'pea99
Squire
I feel your pain. I faced the same situation about three months ago, and TBH it was a right pain in the bum sorting it out and getting it right. The first time I thought I'd sorted it, till I switched the light off and it stayed on...
If it's any comfort (if not actual help) I got there in the end and it works fine now. It is doable.
If it's any comfort (if not actual help) I got there in the end and it works fine now. It is doable.
Yep. The red is always live. The one with the little sleeve is switched live. Connecting red leaves it permanently on.
I like Skol
A Minging Manc...
- Location
- Sunny Ashton-under-Lyne
I could be wrong but here goes....
I would hazard a guess that you have an extractor fan wired in that comes on with the lights and runs on for a bit after the lights are switched off? This would explain the blue, pinky red and red sleeved yellow wire.
The red wires in the middle will be permanent live. The black wires on the right should be the neutral and the black wire on the left with the small red sleeve on it will be the switched live. Basically, one of the red wires runs out to the switch and uses the red sleeved black wire to complete the circuit back to the light fitting. The extractor fan is piggy backed off all this to be switched by the light switch but with a permanent live feed as well to allow it to run when the light is off.
I hope the earth wiring points are obvious and self explanatory. If not get someone that knows to fit the light!
You could connect your light up to the existing points used by the pendant light if the housing is deep enough to clear the existing base plate but If it were me I would go in the loft and fit a junction box above the ceiling to replace the existing baseplate and then just drop the live, return and earth through the ceiling.
I am not an electrician and the official line is get a certified spark to do this for you as I believe it may now be illegal to actually do this yourself?
EDIT: when I said you could connect to the existing points I should have added that you will also need to run an earth wire to your new fitting at it will have a metal body!
I would hazard a guess that you have an extractor fan wired in that comes on with the lights and runs on for a bit after the lights are switched off? This would explain the blue, pinky red and red sleeved yellow wire.
The red wires in the middle will be permanent live. The black wires on the right should be the neutral and the black wire on the left with the small red sleeve on it will be the switched live. Basically, one of the red wires runs out to the switch and uses the red sleeved black wire to complete the circuit back to the light fitting. The extractor fan is piggy backed off all this to be switched by the light switch but with a permanent live feed as well to allow it to run when the light is off.
I hope the earth wiring points are obvious and self explanatory. If not get someone that knows to fit the light!
You could connect your light up to the existing points used by the pendant light if the housing is deep enough to clear the existing base plate but If it were me I would go in the loft and fit a junction box above the ceiling to replace the existing baseplate and then just drop the live, return and earth through the ceiling.
I am not an electrician and the official line is get a certified spark to do this for you as I believe it may now be illegal to actually do this yourself?
EDIT: when I said you could connect to the existing points I should have added that you will also need to run an earth wire to your new fitting at it will have a metal body!
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swee'pea99
Squire
Yup. Admittedly the house burned down, but I'm still ok.... and you are still alive to tell the tale !
U
User6179
Guest
Looks like the new fitting has fittings on the bottom bit , make sure the wires comming through the ceiling can be pulled out further , if not it will be impossible to wire the new fitting up without extending the wires somehow .
Vapin' Joe
Formerly known as Smokin Joe
- Location
- Bare headed cyclist, Smoker
Don't quote me on this, but I think you are ok to fit something to an existing fitting as long as you don't have to do any extra wiring . We need a sparks to clarify, though.
Cheddar George
oober member
- Location
- Location: Location
Yes, it is a problem with "loop in" wiring. My wife has a habit of buying fancy light fittings to replace the pendant fitting which are designed for this type of wiring.
From looking at the original fitting i am guessing that User76 has identified what should go where in terms of live and neutral, the problem is how to achieve it in practice.
I have used the circular 4-way connector boxes (available B&Q etc), but you need to be able to cut a hole big enough to push it into the ceiling void, the new fitting needs to be big enough to cover this hole.
Alternatively get a sparky in.
From looking at the original fitting i am guessing that User76 has identified what should go where in terms of live and neutral, the problem is how to achieve it in practice.
I have used the circular 4-way connector boxes (available B&Q etc), but you need to be able to cut a hole big enough to push it into the ceiling void, the new fitting needs to be big enough to cover this hole.
Alternatively get a sparky in.
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
You only need to work on the 2 outer screws, a short length of 3 core should be attached to the lamp fitting and then connected to the 2 outer screw terminals and to the earth terminal, The hard part is getting the strip of bent steel that the lamp attaches to screwed securely to the ceiling with enough room to accommodate all that gubbins inside the new lamps 'rose'.
drummerbod
Senior Member
- Location
- South Derbyshire
It is illegal to do anything with that rose unless qualified.
However...
New unit brown to switched live in rose currently containing yellow (red sleeved)
New unit blue to common neutral in rose (all blacks)
If you have access above ceiling I would do a proper job and get that lot into a 4 way 20amp junction box as it's going to be a tight squeeze trying to get another lot of cables into that rose.
If you don't feel confident don't do it. Any accident as a result may mean you won't be able to claim on insurance - oh and then there's your health.
However...
New unit brown to switched live in rose currently containing yellow (red sleeved)
New unit blue to common neutral in rose (all blacks)
If you have access above ceiling I would do a proper job and get that lot into a 4 way 20amp junction box as it's going to be a tight squeeze trying to get another lot of cables into that rose.
If you don't feel confident don't do it. Any accident as a result may mean you won't be able to claim on insurance - oh and then there's your health.
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