Linear Pull V-Brake Set Up

[Ajax Bay]

When I tighten the QR lever it seems to seize the whole wheel in-between the pads (i.e. wheel doesn't spin) - then I release it, adjust again maybe loosen the QR a touch, and when its clipped back in, wheel now spins (more freely).

I thought this is what you meant but wanted to be sure.
Your hub is too compressed - that is why the wheel is 'seized'. There are two bearing races in there and they have to be 'mummy bear' compressed. And that needs to be the state when the QR is cinched. So a tiny bit loose when the QR lever is not pushed 'down'.
If you can adjust your hubs you can solve this (but). Tools and technique depend on the type of hub (cup/cone or pressed in).
And finally, the image you shared shows your QR lever not sufficiently pushed in: it needs to go beyond the perpendicular (to a plane parallel to the bike's plane (if that makes sense) - parallel with one of the spokes, ish.

The brakes on this model of Tri-Cross are original and are compatible with drop and flat bar brake systems.
However, they are probably best suited to flat bar brake levers and not STI levers. The later V-brakes were slightly shorter to reduce any flex

"Best suited" as in 'not really suited for use with drop bar STIs'. This is not really a 'flex' issue - it's a cable pull and geometry issue.

 

[rogerzilla]

Roger - I think that the brakes fitted - see image in OP, are 'normal' V-brakes and so the amount of cable an STI can pull will not operate them satisfactorily, you've given the limitations. Now compare that OP image with the mini-Vs I shared an image of.
The OP crashed this bike and damaged himself because both front and rear brakes (mysteriously) failed on a steep (assumed) downhill.
I think we can surmise why.
Or maybe the brake shoe 'bolt' actually caught on the fork blade during operation (see latest post by OP). But all 4 brake shoes?

They don't look quite as long as Deore V-brakes (if the OP could measure an arm from the centre of the pivot to the cable clamp, we could confirm it) but the bike shop is probably blowing smoke up his - er - bottom to a large extent.

There are drop bar levers for V-brakes, but they are not very satisfactory and STI is but a pipe dream.

 

[Ajax Bay]

A typical V-brake on a mountain bike (Deore) is 105mm (centre of the pivot to the cable clamp centre).

 

[Milkfloat]

If you do use mini v’s which can be setup quite well then I would suggest a ‘noodle’ with an adjuster built in. This allows you to adjust the distance from pad to rim very easily.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/tektro-91712-v-brake-lead-pipe-with-adjuster-90-deg/

 

[figbat]

They look like M530s but I can’t see any tension screws.

 

[mjr]

Your hub is too compressed - that is why the wheel is 'seized'. There are two bearing races in there and they have to be 'mummy bear' compressed.

Fill the hub full of porridge.

ETA: I've been reminded that mummy bear's porridge was too sweet (or too cold in some versions). It was baby bear's porridge that was "just right". So fill the hub with sugar.

 

[Gunk]

I’d swap to canti’s. On my Van Nic I’m using Dura Ace levers with TRP canti’s and they work perfectly, easy to set up and reliable.

 

[Ajax Bay]

TRP canti’s

Link?

 

[Chislenko]

Don't wish to doubt the more experienced folk on here but been running a bike with v brakes, drop bars and sti's for the past five years and had no problems.

Bike was originally built by an lbs with many years experience, the owner being an ex-pro and the current chap running it an a former commonwealth cyclist.

I doubt they would build and sell something that was not fit for purpose.

However as I say I always bow to greater knowledge than I possess.

 

[figbat]

“V” or “mini-V”?

 

[Chislenko]

“V” or “mini-V”?

100 mm Deore so I guess that makes them V as opposed to 80 mm mini V.

 

[Ajax Bay]

been running a bike with v brakes, drop bars and sti's for the past five years

Glad they work for you - and yes, 100+mm is a 'normal' V-brake.
An STI lever pulls a lot less cable than the ideal for V-brakes.
You can set it up, and it will work (blocks close to rim's braking surface) but it gives you power (provided the arms aren't themselves too flexible) but less 'feel' so modulation is difficult.
As the blocks wear over time/distance, you'll need to keep adjusting the blocks to stay real close to the rim.
So wheels must as true as. If a wheel goes out of true on the road, you have issues (whereas with cantis or calipers it's easily sorted, to get home). The brake blocks will rubbing as your wheels flex when power is applied (to the drive train).
After 5 years of riding with this set up, is this your experience?

 

[mjr]

Bike was originally built by an lbs with many years experience, the owner being an ex-pro and the current chap running it an a former commonwealth cyclist.

I doubt they would build and sell something that was not fit for purpose.

If they knew what they were doing, they may have fitted adapters or modified the levers.

 

[Gunk]

Link?

https://www.bikeman.com/bicycle-pro...ng/1342-trp-eurox-cantilver-cyclocross-brakes

No longer available new but they do pop up used on eBay

 

[Chislenko]

For info.

Picture of set up, drops, sti's and 100 mm v brakes.

Apologies it is a picture of a picture off my computer but currently have that bike stripped down.