Longer life chain?

[mrmacmusic]

Probably a very silly question, but I'm going to ask it anyway...

Having covered almost exactly 1,000 miles on the Boardman Hybrid Comp I bought at the beginning of October, its KMC Z99 chain is stretched beyond the .75 mark on my chain measuring tool – should I replace it with another brand, a cheaper chain or a more expensive chain? I appreciate that all-weather riding can prematurely wear the drivetrain, but I always wipe the chain if it gets wet, and usually clean and lube at least once a week so had expected a longer service life. Maybe I'm just being overly optimistic

 

[Kestevan]

1000 winter miles is about right.

You'll get more miles out of one in summer (assuming you keep it clean/lubed), but winter knocks hell out of all components. I'd go with the cheaper end of the better makes (I like KMC - they seem better than most, and their quick link is easiest to use).

 

[mrmacmusic]

1000 winter miles is about right.

You'll get more miles out of one in summer (assuming you keep it clean/lubed), but winter knocks hell out of all components. I'd go with the cheaper end of the better makes (I like KMC - they seem better than most, and their quick link is easiest to use).

Thanks for that The Z99 doesn't seem to be widely available compared to X9 chains... is there much difference?

 

[HLaB]

As said 1000 is about right; it was circa 1500 for me before the 0.75 mark but the last few 10sp KMC chains on a SRAM cassette I've run more than twice that been fine and there's been no skipping when replaced (the last chain, no cassette change was circa 4500miles iirc, 3500miles over winter). IMO the guages are premature.

 

[slowmotion]

I got over 4000 miles in all seasons out of my last KMC 10 speed chain, and I'm not particularly careful about maintenance either. Mind you, I'm slow and I don't exactly power up hills.

 

[mrmacmusic]

Had to put the bike into the LBS and left it with them to look at a hub issue (there was some play in wheel and I made a backside of my first strip'n'regrease job ). They've just contacted me to confirm that the chain is measuring over 1.0 in some places, and 0.75 in others (presumably their measuring tool will be more accurate than mine). They've also let me know that having stuck a test chain on it, the cassette definitely needs replaced too although they think the chainrings might be OK...

Now I don't mind replacing bits and bobs when they wear out, but surely this isn't right? The bike's done 1,006.3 miles since I got it brand new in the second week of October. I know that Winter riding is supposed to knock lumps out your drivetrain, but in my 11 commuting weeks pre-Christmas, the weather wasn't exactly that bad – wet and windy now and then, a few freezing days, and certainly not really much in the way of salt on the roads.

When I realised I needed a new chain on my old Flight, I'd covered 3,500+ miles, so it wasn't hard to accept that I'd been a bit silly leaving it so long and had worn the cassette and outer chainrings too. However I fitted another chain to the Flight after a further 1,000 or so miles and didn't need a cassette that time. OK, so that was Summer – but then here in Central Scotland (and in particular this year), so-called "summer" cycling conditions are exactly the same as "winter" apart from it perhaps being a few degrees warmer......

So.... should I be contacting Boardman or Halfords? The KMC Z99RB chain is supposed to be more wear-resistant than others, so perhaps it was from a bad batch? Also, my Flight hubs never skipped a beat in 4,500 miles, so to have play (and from the brown bearings what I suspect may be water ingress) is a bit disconcerting too. Naturally, I'm going to have a chat with the chaps at the LBS when I pick up the Boardman tomorrow, but I'm wondering what advice you might give regarding replacement parts – for example would a Shimano cassette wear slower than a SRAM cassette?

 

[fossyant]

They can wear - don't know what your cleaning regime is like. You could opt for just the chain, and see if the chain jumps - you'd soon find out, but it's an 'on the road' test, not a workshop test. Chainrings will be fine. Hubs - many don't come well greased from factory, but you really shouldn't be having problems with 1000 miles on the clock !

 

[potsy]

My first chain on the CX lasted just over 750 miles according to the lbs (was in for it's 1st service/check-up) so while it was there I got them to replace.
Since then the second one lasted 1500+ before it was time for a change, both times the cassette has been fine, I'm now at the stage of changing again after another 1500 or so.

This is for 10 speed.

 

[Nebulous]

I've never measured a chain and do around 1500-1800 miles before changing it. (9 speed) I thought that was quite conservative! The only time I've had to do less than that was when I snapped one. I also went through 5 chains before changing my cassette.

I'd be quite disappointed in what has happened to you. I'm very much swimming against the tide in cyclechat, but I don't like kmc chains. It might be somewhat irrational but the one I snapped was a kmc. I find sram quieter and think it changes better.

 

[andrew_s]

Always check the chain stretch with a ruler before discarding it.
1/8" over 12" is 1%

Checkers can often be pessimistic, even to the point of showing an unused chain as in need of replacement

 

[mickle]

Expensiver chains generally have more plating. Nickel or chrome (on top of nickel - chrome doesn't stick to steel without it). Sometimes to both inner and outer plates, sometimes outer plates only. The more the better for rust resistance and durability. Complex side plate profiling - for the benefit of easier shifting - costs money at the point of manufacture too, but has no bearing on wear rates.

 

[mrmacmusic]

Thanks folks sorry for the delayed response.

They can wear - don't know what your cleaning regime is like. You could opt for just the chain, and see if the chain jumps - you'd soon find out, but it's an 'on the road' test, not a workshop test. Chainrings will be fine. Hubs - many don't come well greased from factory, but you really shouldn't be having problems with 1000 miles on the clock !

Cleaning regime – I use the 'mickle' method once a week, but will wipe the chain after wet rides, sometimes adding a spot of lube. Usually I'll give the chain and cassette a proper degrease and lube every couple of weeks (although I missed this full wash routine out a couple of times when it was icy). I'm not a fan of the chain cleaner contraptions, so just spray liberally with degreaser and get in about the chain with old nailbrush and/or paintbrush, before rinsing and lubing mickle-style.

The LBS put a test chain on and road tested confirming the cassette is worn, but that the chainrings should be OK – they couldn't put enough force to test this thoroughly. I'm disappointed with the hub though, and really didn't expect problems after such a short space of time. With it now having had a professional inspection, there is some pitting and signs of water ingress from a poor seal (brown bearings one side), but it ran silky smooth this morning with new bearings.

My first chain on the CX lasted just over 750 miles according to the lbs (was in for it's 1st service/check-up) so while it was there I got them to replace.
Since then the second one lasted 1500+ before it was time for a change, both times the cassette has been fine, I'm now at the stage of changing again after another 1500 or so. This is for 10 speed.

Hmm... so at least 2250 miles without needing a cassette, and on 10-speed too. Ties in with what I had expected – 1000-1500 per chain, and no need for a cassette every time.

I've never measured a chain and do around 1500-1800 miles before changing it. (9 speed) I thought that was quite conservative! The only time I've had to do less than that was when I snapped one. I also went through 5 chains before changing my cassette.

You see this is why I'm frustrated. I was actually measuring the chain wear so I could catch it at the point where I just needed a chain rather that the whole drivetrain, yet all of a sudden it seemed to go from acceptable to completely shot. Doing 140 miles per week, I really would like to get more than one chain replacement per cassette, and given what everyone is saying, that should be feasible!

Since it's already passed the point where I need a cassette, do you think it's going to be fine just to run the worn chain/cassette through the Winter? There's no sign of fish-hooking on the chainrings so they are OK (for now), and there's no skipping, misfiring or gear change issues.

 

[mickle]

I use the 'mickle' method once a week, but will wipe the chain after wet rides, sometimes adding a spot of lube. Usually I'll give the chain and cassette a proper degrease and lube every couple of weeks (although I missed this full wash routine out a couple of times when it was icy). I'm not a fan of the chain cleaner contraptions, so just spray liberally with degreaser and get in about the chain with old nailbrush and/or paintbrush, before rinsing and lubing mickle-style.

You're doing it wrong.

 

[Rob3rt]

Since it's already passed the point where I need a cassette, do you think it's going to be fine just to run the worn chain/cassette through the Winter? There's no sign of fish-hooking on the chainrings so they are OK (for now), and there's no skipping, misfiring or gear change issues.

I tried that since I knew I was going to upgrade the whole groupset, the result of which was nearly losing a bollock when the chain shipped when I was out of the saddle at the top of a small rise because of the worn chainring! Change the chain if it is worn, do not let it bugger the chainrings!

I have been stuck in the 34 for a couple of weeks now because of the worn 50 (I hardly ever use the 34, hence it was still good).

 

[Hacienda71]

Oh dear , I have done over 5000 miles with my current 10 speed chain. Rushes out to garage ruler in hand.