Looking after one's steed

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Davidc

Guru
Location
Somerset UK
garrilla said:
Do wipes and kitchel roll not leave lint in your fragile parts?

Kitchen roll does so I don't use it - haven't tried wipes.

Old cotton shirts cut up into 300mm squares work well for getting the crud off chains etc. before putting new oil on.

I only use a degreaser if its really bad and the same thing helps with that.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Tynan said:
I do nothing

maybe wash and oil the chain monthly, maybe

otherwise replace when needed

Lazy......
 

XmisterIS

Purveyor of fine nonsense
Davidc said:
WD40 on anything that moves such as a chain or any bearing is a DISASTER. New chains, hubs, jockey wheels, cables etc. are expensive.

Suggest you take a look at The Bicycle Tutor's take on WD40 and chains at http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/

Do bicycle chains have sealed o-rings like motorbike chains? WD-40 is a complete killer for sealed o-ring motorbike chains because it penetrates the seal and washes out the factory-sealed lube in there. For that reason also I use paraffin to clean my motorbike chain, because it is not as aggressive as some of the other cleaners out there.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Nope - they are totally open....they aren't transmitting mahoosive power, but the same principal applies.. i.e. don't use WD40 or similar, or chain baths unless the chain is really messed up.

WD40 is OK sprayed on a rag then used to just wipe the outer plates of a chain if very grubby.....
 

Davidc

Guru
Location
Somerset UK
XmisterIS said:
Do bicycle chains have sealed o-rings like motorbike chains? WD-40 is a complete killer for sealed o-ring motorbike chains because it penetrates the seal and washes out the factory-sealed lube in there. For that reason also I use paraffin to clean my motorbike chain, because it is not as aggressive as some of the other cleaners out there.

As above - no, but WD40 dissolves and washes out the lubricant which is there already.

So does chain degreaser, and I only use that occasionally if there's evidence of grit or dust which could cause wear. Careful re-lubrication is essential after a degreaser is used.

WD40 seems to work as a lubricant on things which move little and infrequently like door hinges, but not on things which move a lot.
 

Keith Oates

Janner
Location
Penarth, Wales
I give mine a wash down with a very wet cloth on most days, just using water and no soap liquid. I check out the chain most days and only apply oil when it looks dry. My biggest problem is the brake and gear cables, they need to be slotted out and lightly oiled at least once month. Tyres get the finger pressure test most mornings before setting out and are pumped up when it feels a bit soft.
 

Tynan

Veteran
Location
e4
fossyant said:
Lazy......

oooo, yes I supose you could say that, it's all about what we chose to spend our time doing isn't it?

we've had discussions about this in the past, what difference it makes to the lie of parts versus cost of parts versus value of time

some of you lot might be called compulsive if anyone cared enough to comment
 

skrx

Active Member
If my bike is *really* muddy when I arrive home I might throw some water at it (i.e. fill a bucket, tip it over, give it a shake).

Other than that, I oil the chain about once a month, typically the morning after the mud.
 

J4CKO

New Member
I am quite fond of jet washing mine when really messy but not very often as it seems to be fronwed upon, that said, I avoid bearing areas and then carefully re-lube it afterwards.

The missus found the rear cassette in the diskwasher after the wash, she wasnt pleased but it came up like new !

I generally suspend mine from the garage ceiling and clean the gears with a rag, I do use WD40 on cable guides and for wiping stuff, seems to work.

Anyway, my regime is working, nearly 2000 miles/1 year and no discernible wear in the drivetrain, its still like new despite being used in all weathers, I cant see any wear in it, the gears still shift perfectly and contrary to some stuff I have seen on here about replacing stuff after a couple of thousand miles. In fact my gears shift better, unadjusted from new than the Ultegra kit on the sub 100 mile Felt F65 I used on Friday !
 

swee'pea99

Squire
I wash my bike at least once a year. Other than that, prolink chain lube when required - once a month or so - with the occasional drip into things like gears and down cable housings. That's it.
 

Crankarm

Guru
Location
Nr Cambridge
Little and often. Wash it with a bucket of warm water and washing up liquid - the frame, the rims, the brake blocks, transmission and spokes. I remove the chain degrease and re-lube if necessary in a large food tray(s). I also clean the cassette and chain rings in the same way. I use Car Pride 151 degreaser. It shifts any dirt, grime or grease with ease to leave metal surfaces sparkling. Wash, rinse and dry before re-applying the lube currently Finish Line Pro Ceramic which appears to be pretty good stuff having previously used White Lightening, Prolink Gold, Finish Line Teflon Dry ride, GT85 and many years ago WD40. FL Pro Ceramic seems to be the most oil like being actually made from synthetic oils and the one that remains on the chain although it has only been on the chain for a week. The transmission is certainly alot quieter and friction losses seem to be a lot lower so chain flows a lot more easily. I don't like dry lubes. Lubes by their name should lubricate. IMHO being dry they cannot do this. I use Autosol on the bright work such as the hubs, skewers, cranks and seat post and bars depending on which bike I am cleaning.
 

arallsopp

Post of The Year 2009 winner
Location
Bromley, Kent
Once a month the commuter gets a sponge and car shampoo. Once a week (or after rain) she gets a quick wipe down with Babywipes (pampers ultra sensitive in the white packaging are best). Any time she's noisy, she gets a dose of Pro Link Gold as lube.
 
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