Low risk, flexible, portable and quick to use bike locks?

[Time Waster]

I'm looking for some kind of deterrent lock for a few uses. One to lock a bike to a rack, two to lock a saddle to the frame. Perhaps both can be done by the same lock, currently using a cable lock to do that and it's ok but looking for better. Security risk is not high, pretty low really.

I like the Abuse folding locks or the newbie foldylocks but they're too pricey. I saw a rockbros version, are they ok for a low risk use?

That option would only suit fixing the bike to the rack. I'd then need something for the saddle. Perhaps a cable tie lock such as hiplock and others do.

Anyone got recommendations? It's it possible to get one lock for it all?

One last thing, I'd like to have a solution that can be fitted to a bike and forgotten about until
needed. The folding locks are great for that. The saddle security I can't figure a good option for. It's a folding bike so the saddle seatpost drops, a cable tie lock could link into a main lock. Or is there a light and very packable cable option that would use the main lock to secure it? Like those d locks plus cables with loops on the ends but lighter.

 

[andrew_s]

For the saddle to the frame lock, I use a Hexlock
It's an update of the old trick of supergluing a ball bearing into the end of an allen bolt, but can be quickly and simply removed using a small key.
They also sell parts such as seatpost bolts that have rounded or conical ends so you can't readily use vice grips.
A limitation is that the allen bolts you are blocking have to be magnetic steel, which some varieties of stainless aren't, so you may have to change the seatpost clamp bolt.

There are also bulkier alternatives such as Pitlock

 

[Time Waster]

Just rethinking this need again and realised I made this post this summer. I am considering what my options could be.

@andrew_s
I forgot to say I have a Brompton with telescopic seatpost where the top section can be removed but I do not want to remove it myself since I use that section locked to get my ideal seat height when the lower section is fully extended. This allows for a reasonably compact fold but the riding position is easy and quick to get to without having to keep adjusting every time I drop then raise the seatpost during folding / unfolding.

So I need to feed a cable or other lock through the saddle rails and into the small frame triangle or rear triangle to secure the seat. Then I need to use a lock through the small frame triangle or the rear triangle and into a secure rack loop at the side of the rack rail with a higher security. All with ideally an easy access solution that is on the bike without affecting the fold.

Anyone got some good solutions? Preferably without costing hundred pounds or more!!

I am currently using a long cable lock that secures the saddle and the whole bike in one. I got two combo zip tie type of locks to use as a quick lock on the train but never found them any good. Too temperamental combo dials that needed to be in the exact right place to work without a positive click on each number. Also I found out I set the numbers too random and it took me a few attempts to get the two different sets of numbers right. Often got one then struggled with the other. I now know I hate combo locks. Plus they did not attach to the bike when carrying that well so had to be stuffed in a fully stuffed bag.

Small D locks will not reach the side rack loop from the frame triangles. The rear wheel does not fit in the wheel bender rack bike support so the front wheel first parking means no secure fixing point there for small D locks.

I think I need about 800mm loop for a cable, chain or other lock type. Perhaps a long and narrow D lock might work too but I am not so sure.

A chain lock will not fit through the saddle rails obviously so whilst I have a double loop ended accessory cable for that to use with a decent bike lock I hate how those are so bulky to carry. Perhaps a shorter one where you go through the saddle rails and then feed one end through the other loop and pull tight to leave one length that the secure bike lock goes through the end loop to secure it fully. I reckon a short cable would work like this as an extra to the main lock.

Anyway, I hope someone knows of a good option for the main lock and the saddle lock. Also if one is a good and quick option to lock the bike on my busy train home as a quick deterrant.

 

[Punkawallah]

As you have described the risk as ‘low’, you might be as well off to buy a cheap ‘beater’ bike with nut & bolt saddle, wheels etc and just use a cable lock. The Diamond quality locks cost around £150 each.

 

[Time Waster]

I have a Brompton to avoid being prevented from getting on the train due to it being busy so your idea will work for some but not for me.

Also this is a risk. My first commute home with it I got told I could not get on as the train was too busy. I folded it and got told I could get on the train as it was like luggage. It is also mentioned as that in a lot of train operating company T&Cs too.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Just buy a suitable length cable with loops either end then separately buy a lock that will secure those loops.

 

[HLaB]

If its Low Risk for the saddle a Hip lock Zip Lock as you've mentioned is great. For the bike though even in low risk areas (such as my work bike cage) Id still recommend a d'lock rather a flexible one. But this claims to be Sold Secure Gold

https://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/a...IfAzCE_ifXjk9rGjHKIvypz9pmEUYji8aApc6EALw_wcB


View: https://youtu.be/zDKQoATTHwQ?si=7jmLqKpQlDqjY-Oi

Another option is https://www.cyclingweekly.com/revie...tly-formed-seatylock-foldylock-compact-review

 

[Dadam]

A big fan of Foldylocks here. I've got a Compact on the utility hybrid and a Forever on the commuter ebike. The Forever is 2kg and while not angle grinder resistant it is sold secure gold so satisfies insurance. For a lower risk lock I'd heartily recommend the Compact (SS silver). It's just so easy to carry on the water bottle mount and only weighs 1kg.

For the seatpost how about one of these? I've got the QR wheel bolt equivalent on the hybrid. Basically just a security head bolt (7 lobe torx), but reasonably obscure so low chance an opportunist looking to nick has a set of security bits/keys on them.

 

[brommieinkorea]

Master makes a cable lock that cinches up, Python lock I think. Wouldn't take one near London but otherwise it's o.k. Easier to use than a cable with padlock. £15 , look at a hardware store though.

 

[bighipspeddler]

I don't know if it fits your criteria, and notice you mentioned a small one but a big D-lock suited me fine when I lived in the city as a student in manchester where crime was rife and students were seen as easy pickings.

From what I recall I would just do it around the frame and front wheel. That was back in the mid naughties though and I guess things are different now with criminals using angle grinders in broad daylight, which I have actually witnessed one time where they were going at a moped in front of the job centre of all places! They were through in a few seconds and away with it, so I suppose most lock offerings are moot against that kind of criminal.

 

[Drago]

Depends what you mean by "low risk."

The risk of an incident of attempted thievery may be lower in a nice area.

But when they do come and have a go theyll likely use exactly the same methods as scumbags in high risk areas and youll need exactly the same level of protection as you would there. Once they do start the risk of loss will be no different.

So if the intention is to retain the bicycle buy the best you can afford and figure out a way of carrying it.

If the intention is to rest easy and try not to think about it then a less effective but more portable device will tick that box.

 

[Dogtrousers]

Depends what you mean by "low risk."

The risk of an incident of attempted thievery may be lower in a nice area.

But when they do come and have a go theyll likely use exactly the same methods as scumbags in high risk areas and youll need exactly the same level of protection as you would there. Once they do start the risk of loss will be no different.

So if the intention is to retain the bicycle buy the best you can afford and figure out a way of carrying it.

If the intention is to rest easy and try not to think about it then a less effective but more portable device will tick that box.

You've made me think harder about this than is reasonable.

We have three variables. The probability that an attempt will be made, the strength of the crook's methods and the strength of the lock.

Your thesis is that methods are always at a high level, so if you leave your bike in an area of low attempt risk and reduce lock strength accordingly then you may as well not lock your bike at all, or just lock it with a piece of string, because if they do come they will use maximum strength methods.

As an overall precautionary principle this is good, and I'm not arguing against it.

But I can't help thinking that these variables aren't independent, and they way they interact could be interesting. I'm trying unsuccessfully not to think too much about this.

I'm working on a theory that a good lock would a super realistic blow-up D-Lock. It's light and portable, it's so realistic it will deter attempts, but if they do come at it with a monster grinder the outcome is just the same as any other lock.

 

[Drago]

You've made me think harder about this than is reasonable.

Sorry!

Your thesis is that methods are always at a high level

Take it from an old copper - the only real world variable is the likelihood of a theft, because once a thief covets it their favoured method of acquisition wont be any different.

And no, they dont always work at a high level. Opportunists go to work in Tottenham as they do in the village. Geographical situation may affect their likelihood of turning up, but once they do arrive they will use the same MO they use anywhere else, whatever that may be.

Take note. Thieves equipped to crack cheap locks target bikes in quiet villages as well as in the Bronx. They may be less active in the village, but when they go to work they dont alter their MO simply to suit the genteel sensibilities of the locals.

 

[froze]

Depends on how serious you are for wanting to protect your bike. A cable can be cut in less than 30 seconds. Folding locks have a weak spot at the swivel spots, I've seen You Tube videos breaking those things in a matter of seconds. Now with the advent of battery powered angle grinders about 98% of the locks on the market are destroyed in less than a minute.

I assume you want a lightweight lock, and the lightest weight one that can take on an angle grinder and win is the OnGuard RockSolid U-Lock, this thing weighs 3 pounds.

If you want something flexable the there is the LITELOK Core Plus, while not as robust against angle grinders as the OnGuard lock I mentioned but it will slow one down taking a person about 3 to 4 minutes to cut through it. It weighs about the same as the OnGuard, and you can wear it around your waist if you want, I think you can even buy two and join them to make a bigger lock.

As far as your saddle goes, you have two options, one is the HexLock mentioned earlier by another poster. The other option is to simply remove the seat with the post and take it with you.

What I find strange is you say you live in a low-risk area but worried about your saddle? Is the saddle worth more than the bicycle? Who in a low-risk area would be only interested in the saddle and not the entire bike? Once you figure out how to secure the saddle, what about the wheels and components? I just find it strange to be worried about the saddle so much, perhaps you could explain that?

 

[dutchguylivingintheuk]

For quick and easy i love frame lock, my Gazelle has an Axa one which are great for quick and stong locking it's an frame lock so it locks your rear wheel to the frame. And have an cable you can buy for it to attach it to something, (which in turn clicks into the lock) The problem with every lock is however time and if you have to put it at an station, the thieves have a time advantage and lots of bikes to chose from.
Sadly i don't see many stations with lockable cycle safes, you see them in just about every Dutch station and i think Germany other European countries as well, you drive your bike in it similar to the two story slot like things you see on many stations but then there is an casing around it with an padlock, not only making it harder to break open, it's also harder to see what's inside.
But sadly we don't have that here so the only solution is an good lock(which isn't nessacery small) or buying an cheap bike just to get to the station.