Meandering around Te Ika-a-Māui, New Zealand's North Island in early 2020

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IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
*** It's now a month while since I got back from this tour and I've eventually made the time to begin putting together this journal. Bear with me; it might take a while! ***

Prologue
Unlike those brave, adventurous souls (I’m looking at you @HobbesOnTour!) who spend months or even years on the road, my ambitions are somewhat more modest. Until now, my longest tour was the seventeen days during which a buddy and I cycled Lands End to John O’ Groats to mark my fiftieth year.

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Start of LEJOG, 2008

A decade later, and having reached (and passed) another milestone, I’m seeking a new challenge. Retirement, or at least the privilege of being able to choose when or if to work, has now opened up new possibilities, but where to go? Nudging me in one direction is the UK winter. Although we don’t have the extremes that friends around the world experience, for me, it’s a combination of it being too cold to enjoy extended time in the saddle, the increased risk of coming a cropper on icy roads, and depressingly short daylight hours. Then it struck me that whilst we’re enduring several months of misery, our cousins in the southern hemisphere are enjoying the delights of summer.

Another factor is how far I’m prepared to push myself beyond my comfort zone and the hardship I’m prepared to endure. Whilst I’m keen to be away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, the remoteness of Mongolia or Patagonia, beautiful and inspiring though they might be, would be a step too far for me. With little more than a mere smattering of French, German and Dutch, language limitations are another consideration. For some, these are not difficulties, but simply add to the interest; I’m not quite there yet.

Working within those boundaries, but also inspired by the accounts of others, I settled on New Zealand during February and March. International touring treads new ground for me (unless you count the tour across Belgium and down the Rhine valley I did as a seventeen year old). So many choices to make during planning, each one setting me on a particular path, some of which demanded a little backtracking. Initially, for example, I wondered about hiring a bike out there, rather than suffer the hassle of an airflight with a bike. Hiring a bike for five weeks is an expensive undertaking, and who knows whether its geometry will suit my riding. I elected instead to go with the touring bike I’ve had for over ten years now and with which I’m more than happy and on which ticking off the miles is (usually!) a pleasure. Of course that decision then meant finding the best (least worst?) way to transport the bike. Just one of the many decisions I faced; I’ll cover some of the others later. I know some folks are happy to ‘just do it,’ but that’s not me; I actually find planning an exciting part of the experience.
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Where to go
It took a while to decide on a route, and even then it was always a work in progress. Visiting the usual tourist hotspots were of lesser importance to me than the suggestions from other cycle tourers, although if they overlapped, then all well and good. Plenty of web searching, reading cycle touring blogs and other accounts helped me gradually pull together the following notional route, although I expected local knowledge gained on tour would influence the detail. It did!

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I knew I wanted to visit the Coromandel, Forgotten World Highway, East Cape, whilst picking up some of Nga Haerenga (The New Zealand Cycle Trail) where it fits along the way. I later heard about Gentle Annie and wanted to squeeze that in, but couldn’t find a way to shoehorn The Old Motu Road and do the East Cape, let alone the South Island! Ah well, maybe next time?

I’d given myself six weeks which I’d decided would include a couple of days bookending the start and finish with stopovers in Singapore. I also wanted a couple of days at the start in New Zealand to get set up and acclimatised, and also at the finish to prepare for the flight home. That left just under five weeks to complete the 1500 or so miles. With a few rest days that came to 50 - 60 miles a day which should have been well within my compass, right?
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Stage 1: Getting there
Aotearoa is pretty much as far as it’s possible to go from Blighty, so the journey was never going to be straightforward. The first day began shortly before the alarms I had set for 5.30. Although I slept surprisingly well, given how nervous I had become over the preceding days, I beat the alarms and was definitely ready and raring to go. A text at 6.00 informed me the taxi was on its way and half an hour later we promptly departed on a relatively warm but decidedly wet and dreary day.

With my first worry out of the way I could turn my attention to the next - how big a problem it might be checking in a large bike box? I needn't have been concerned and the person checking me in at Singapore Airlines barely batted an eyelid. The box, two panniers and bar bag were within the baggage allowance and size restrictions so perhaps I shouldn't have been concerned, and yet other tourers' reports do sometimes mention problems with some baggage clerks and some airlines. Having successfully passed through security I could now relax, grab a coffee and wait for my flight to be called.

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Raining in Manchester? Nah, surely not.

The flight was almost twelve hours, largely uneventful, but offered little opportunity for a snooze. A family of five plus a toddler occupied the five other seats in the bank of six in which I was berthed. They weren't at all unpleasant, but (some?) toddlers do tend to squeal rather loudly which I struggle to cope with. The food and service were good though; I got to catch up on a couple of rollicking movies and remind myself how good ‘The West Wing’ was and still is.

Having touched down promptly at Changi in Singapore just after 07:00 local time, I was in no rush to get to the hotel. The passage though immigration was relaxed, although I did spot that arrivals were being scanned for body temperature by joint medical and military personnel, doubtless an understandable precaution in the light of the coronavirus outbreak [This was still early February and the widespread and devastating effect had yet to fully unfold]. I wondered at the time whether changing conditions might have an even bigger impact on my homeward journey? Onwards to baggage collection to see whether my bike box had survived the first leg of the journey. Another worry passed as the box emerged from the oversize baggage ramp almost completely intact and with no more than a smallish tear where a handler had tugged one of the precut holes a little too roughly. Then it was off to baggage storage to save me having to lug the bike around the city. At S$54 for three days it wasn't cheap, but perhaps no more expensive than having to get a taxi capable of carrying a large box to and from the hotel.

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Still too early to head straight to my accommodation, I chose instead to take a longer ride on the MRT (mass rapid transit) and get to see a little more of the city. The 'East-West' line was helpful here, it's elevated position offering good views of your surroundings, even though much of that was high-rise blocks. In the spirit of adventure I thought that swapping to the Circle line might take me to pastures new; it did. All underground! I was obviously beginning to suffer from lack of sleep, so I headed to the hotel to see if they would let me check in early. Bingo! Although a shower freshened me up, I still needed a nap before I'd feel up to the evening tour I'd booked.

When I left the hotel at 5pm, the temperature had soared to well over 30°C. Friends who had been to Singapore recently said how oppressive the heat and humidity could be. They weren't wrong! Opening the door from the hotel onto the street produced a blast of hot air similar to that when opening an oven door. Returning to the MRT provided some welcome air-conditioned relief for the trip across town to meet my guide and fellow group members for 'Feast like a local', a walking and eating tour around local hawker markets. After introducing ourselves, Melody, the guide, Joanna, Ksenia and I then were led into the local market and to our first tasting. There are rows and rows of small food outlets, each offering a particular dish or dishes. In front of these are tables at which the hungry can seat themselves - a more 'artisanal' version of the food courts to be found in shopping malls.

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Although I wouldn't go so far as to call it an assault on the senses, there was a noticeable intermingling of pungent and spicy aromas, the majority of which I struggled to recognise. At each of the locations we visited, Melody would bring us several dishes to try from the nearest vendors. Each stallholder specialised in one or two dishes only. It was nothing like a cafe back home where you might get a range of options, including drinks. Here you went to the stall which prepared the food you were seeking. Over nearly four hours we took a table at each of four locations and during that time tried popiah, Xiao long nap, laksa, nasi lemak, satay, BBQ chicken wings, rojak and several others.

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Good food and good conversation is a great way to spend an evening. I lucked out on both counts. It was such a lovely, eclectic bunch of people with whom to share a meal, folks I doubtless would never otherwise have come across. Each of us on our own adventure, but briefly coming together over food. If you're in Singapore, want some lively, wide-ranging conversation, interesting food and to learn a little about Singaporean culture then I'd wholeheartedly recommend Melody's tour; you can find it on AirBnB.

I made my way back across town, ready for a longer sleep. As I walked between locations, it struck me how warm it still was, even at 11pm. We'd spent the whole evening sitting out whilst we ate and at no point did I notice the inevitable post-sunset chill descending that we invariably suffer from back home. This I could get used to!

My second day picked up from the previous night - more food, but with a twist. This is a cycling forum after all. I needed to be at 'Nicholl Highway' MRT station by 9am to meet a new tour guide and pick up my bike. Well, not my bike exactly, but one that came on loan as part of the 'Bikes and Bites' tour. Already there when I arrived, Holden my tour guide introduced himself and explained I was to be the one and only participant on today's tour.

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The Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam

The bikes were 20" wheeled folding bikes with eight gears and disc brakes - not too shabby at all. No helmets though and mine was still at the airport with my bike. Not to worry, although generally I always do wear a helmet, I don't fret too much when obliged by circumstances to do otherwise. And most of the route would be off road at a very leisurely pace. Similarly to last night, we would be visiting different eateries and sampling different dishes, but since travel was by bike, it was possible to cover more ground. It was also possible to learn a little more about Singapore from the different locations we visited.

From the meeting place by the Bay, we first headed inland to enjoy a traditional Singaporean breakfast at a quiet little cafe on the edge of the Central Business District. This was coffee, soft-boiled eggs (read very runny!) and kaya toast (sandwiched slices of toast spread with butter and kaya, a spread consisting of sugar, coconut milk and pandan). The coffee was excellent, complimented perfectly by the toast.

Singapore's population draws on a diverse and rich cultural heritage, its peoples tracing their heritage back to China, Malaya, India and the Middle East. It was during colonial times that the Island was developed from an agrarian subsistence to a centre of trade and commerce and as new settlers arrived, they tended to cluster together with others from their homelands. So in turn we visited these different districts and sampled cuisine which reflected the local ethnicities. Kampong Glam with the Sultan's mosque drew on Muslim heritage, but over the morning we also visited Little India and Little China. The streets we cycled along mostly served the tourist trade, but Holden helped peel back those layers to reveal the underlying history, something I would have missed had I wandered these areas on my own.

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ArtScience Museum to the left of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel and shopping complex.

As I found last night and was reminded today, the image of Singapore as an expensive place may be appropriate in some respects, but visit the right places and choose carefully and you can eat like a king on the purse of a pauper. The tour came to a close taking in the sights of the reclaimed land on which the Marina Bay Sands hotel and Gardens by the Bay now stand. Such impressive, amazing architecture alongside landscaped horticultural wonders. Equally or perhaps even more impressive at night, after expressing my gratitude to Holden, I made my way back to the hotel to freshen up before returning in the evening.

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Most visitors to Singapore wax lyrical when describing Gardens by the Bay and the Singapore skyline at night. Now I understand why. I arrived in plenty of time for a stroll round the illuminated gardens before the Supertree light and music show. As you walk around, background music softly plays and contributes to the sense of peace and wonder you enjoy from the displays. I will definitely need to return during the day to doubtless get a different sense of the place. The light show was indeed spectacularly impressive, as was the fountains, light and music show out in the Bay I enjoyed later. Once more I was reminded of the pleasure and delight of being able to sit outside at night, whilst enjoying free entertainment.

My flight to New Zealand was in the evening of the following day, so I had time to spend putting my new found culinary knowledge to the test. I wandered out early for breakfast, before the heat began to assert its authority. At the Keng Wah Sung kopitiam (coffee house) I ordered my kaya toast and kopi kosong. Oops! The toast was delicious, but the coffee was black - I'd been given to believe that adding an 'o' (kopi o kosong) made it black. Apparently not, but no matter, the coffee really was very good and made without the fuss and palaver of the coffee machines that spit out often questionable quality coffee back home. And in total it came to the princely sum of S$2.70 or around £1.50.

I spent the remainder of the day using the MRT to provide occasional air-conditioned relief as it whisked me from place to place. I revisited the Gardens by the Bay in daylight, had a longer, more leisurely wander around Little China and took in the huge ‘People’s Place’ hawker centre - a bit like being in a Poundland the size of Meadowhall! After retrieving my panniers from the hotel, I hopped once more on the MRT, arriving at the airport around five hours before my flight was due which left plenty of time to collect my bike from storage and check it in with my baggage.

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There’s plenty to keep you entertained at Changi airport, including the Jewel Centre which amused and fed me until it was time to head to Departures.

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'Rain Vortex', at five storeys the world's tallest indoor waterfall
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Stage 2: Kia Ora!

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"Don't look now, but this guy over here taking the photo ... he looks like a wrong un"

Despite getting caught by one of the biosecurity pooches (Not much gets past their noses - I’d simply had an apple in one of the panniers a day earlier) and having my tent taken away and thoroughly checked by the biosecurity personnel, I was soon through Arrivals and could set about reassembling the bike. Auckland Airport is most helpful here in providing a couple of wall mounted frame holders just outside the main entrance. As I began to pull away the various parts I had taped in place, all seemed to be present, correct and in good order. Saddle and seatpost, handlebars, pedals, front wheel, kickstand, all reassembled.

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Reassembling the steed

A quick run up the road suggested all was in order, so before loading up the tent, panniers and bar bag, I dug out and fired up the Garmin. It was as I did this I thought I'd also check my location and route on the elderly (like its owner!) Samsung Mini I’d brought as a backup navigation device. Ah! It wasn't in the bar bag where I usually kept it, nor did it appear to be anywhere else. Whilst emptying and repacking all the bags, I racked my brains. I was pretty sure I hadn't taken it out after leaving the plane, so I decided to focus my attention there. The airport information desk suggested the baggage handling team and pointed me to their facilities. No joy, but they said things don't always come straight through so to call back in a couple of days … by which time I’d of course be on my way. Oh well.

Off I set and after successfully finding my way through the airport access roads and away from the terminal I was now on my way in New Zealand. The frustration of losing the phone had sadly robbed me of that little thrill however. I was somewhat surprised, but nonetheless delighted how quiet the roads seemed to be at around four thirty - it was only later I discovered it was Waitangi Day, a public holiday and folks would mostly be taking it easy. I guess my baptism of kiwi driving would have to wait. The run to the AirBnB was straightforward and hassle free so allowed me to gently clock up my first half dozen kiwi miles.

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Auckland suburbia. Wide roads seem to be a thing here.

After a fantastic night's sleep I awoke feeling refreshed and keen to complete preparations for the tour's official start the next day. With the sun in full force and the morning temperature heading upwards, I wandered into Manukau, the local suburb, seeking a gas canister and some food to get me on the road. Having whiled away the morning I returned to the homestay, got some washing done then fettled the bike: oiled the chain, located and resolved the rubbing noise I spotted yesterday, and nipped up the steering head which I'd failed to tighten properly on reassembly. I then took a shake down spin to see if all was in order with the bike, to check the Garmin could still do its job here on the other side of the world, to experience NZ roads on a normal day rather than public holiday, and to make sure my legs still worked! Eighteen miles later and following an unintended climb up one of Auckland’s many extinct volcanoes, I was confident(ish) I was ready.
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Day 1: Auckland - Miranda (51 miles, 1913 feet of ascent)

With no particular rush to get away I repacked the panniers having emptied them on arrival in the vain hope the missing smartphone might materialise. It didn't of course, but at least the repack meant I could shift things around for the tour, rather than arranged for Singapore, as they had been so far. I also had to squeeze in the food I'd bought yesterday. Fortunately a space was found for all. After faffing around, filling up the three water bottles with two and a half litres of water, setting up the Garmin, and chatting to the Swiss couple who arrived the previous evening, it was nearly 9:30 by the time wheels were rolling.

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Similarly to yesterday it was hot and sunny, so I'd slathered on the sun cream hoping to fend off any burning. What it couldn't help with was the heat I generated climbing back up the same volcano I'd crested yesterday. Good to get legs, lungs and heart into the swing of things early I guess. Just over the summit my route took me into Totara park, a vast area of tracks and trails equally suited to a Saturday morning amble or to some hard-core mountain biking. The car park at the entrance was full of cars, many with bike racks; this was rightly a popular place with Aucklanders. Being off road was great; up and down on loose gravel in a touring bike less so.

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The first real settlement I went through was Clevedon and seeing a sign for snacks and coffee at the Co-op, despite it being early, I followed my new rule that if refreshments present themselves, snap them up. The staff were friendly, the coffee was fine and the cheese pastry thing was large! There was also a free to use water fountain(?) so I took the chance to replenish my water bottle. Conscious that my arms seemed to be taking some punishment from the sun, I decided to put on the pair of arm warmers I'd brought. I hoped they might offer more options (and be lighter) than a long-sleeved shirt. They could provide long sleeves if it was chilly, or cover my arms if the sun was a problem. It proved to be an inspired choice and despite adding a layer, actually made my arms feel cooler. Result!

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A couple of gentle climbs later and I got my first view of the sea descending into Kawakawa Bay. The run along the shoreline was unfortunately short-lived and the route turned inland towards the main climb of the day. It wasn't particularly fierce but it did go on for a while, the kind of climb my cycling buddy back home would relish (and I dislike!). Despite much of it being thankfully shaded, I still struggled and must confess to taking the comfort break I'd needed for a while, although really just to get a moment's respite. Whilst performing the necessary, it became abundantly clear I'd not been taking anything like enough fluids [too much information?]. The litre of water and large coffee consumed in the first twenty or so miles weren't enough and I needed to step up.

As I rejoined the coast the road gently undulated for the next few miles until joining the salt marshes that provide habitat for wading and other birds. Of course that means flat roads and I was somewhat minded of the Lincolnshire Fens back in the UK. Since arriving in New Zealand, it seems the wind springs up in the afternoon, which it had today. Right in my face! The combination of long, straight sections coupled with a headwind became sapping, so when The Pink Shop in Kaiuau appeared, it was more than welcome. My first New Zealand pie was OK and I backed it up with a generously filled breadroll. The Shop also serves ice cream, so I decided pudding was in order. 'One or two scoops sir?' Yeah, that decision didn't take long, but it became a learning opportunity. Ice cream portion sizes over here are … ample! For NZ$4 (£2) you get enough ice cream to last around 20 minutes, or so it seemed. Well I needed the rest!

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The remaining few miles, still into the wind, brought me to the Miranda Holiday Park and my resting place for the night. The welcome was friendly, the cost reasonable (NZ$28), and my pitch fairly quiet and out of the way. The site had plenty of activities that suit families, including a warm outdoor pool. A shower was more to my taste, after which I could get some laundry done and take advantage of the breeze to hopefully get things dry. As I'd learned before coming, even the less basic New Zealand campgrounds also have good cooking facilities - hobs, ovens, microwaves, barbeques, and somewhere to sit and eat. This should make life easier and save me some gas into the bargain.

As I hung out my washing, another biking Brit arrived. Also a retiree, Steve was on a much more extensive tour than I, having already done Australia, Tasmania, and after New Zealand is off to South Africa. He's on a much lighter, bike packing set up, though his MTB looks distinctly robust, rather than lightweight.

Today proved tougher than I'd expected, which was worrying, given what I had in store tomorrow, but perhaps more significantly, the day after. Perhaps it was just the heat, or that I was coming from the winter period when my mileages tended to fall, or that I was consuming too little water? I hoped things would improve as my fitness levels picked up.
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Day 2: Miranda - Coromandel (54 miles, 2005 feet of ascent)

Today was the day I got handed my rear end. On a silver platter, drizzled with a little olive oil & balsamic, sprinkled with lightly toasted sesame seeds. More of that later.

The dawn chorus sings to a different tune here. To my untutored ear it sounded tropical; similar to the sounds I commonly hear on wildlife documentaries. Having been serenaded into wakefulness, I was up and at 'em at 6:30 for a leisurely breakfast in the mostly deserted kitchen. My company was the seemingly ever-present sparrows. Wherever there's food around - like the cafe stops yesterday - these precocious little avians make an appearance and hop around your feet and on perches nearby.

Once more it took a while to get going. The tent had collected some condensation and needed drying, but as soon as the sun crept above the tree line, matters proceeded apace. The cloudless sky hinted at another blistering day, and so it proved. Today I applied sunscreen to the bits of my feet that the sandal straps leave bare; a mistake I made yesterday and was not keen to repeat. With my 'house' packed away I set wheels rolling and though I was setting off before Steve, if he was half the cyclist he seemed to be he'd soon come flying past.

The flat, straight roads on which I finished yesterday's ride opened today's. Not unpleasant but neither particularly exciting. The ‘Hauraki Trail’ begins out here and runs alongside the road during this stretch. I popped on it for a couple of hundred yards and though firm, the top layer of chippings was a little loose. Since the road traffic was light I rejoined the highway to make better time. One other hand, if you were with young children less comfortable on the road, the Trail would be a perfectly adequate alternative. At the junction where the Auckland traffic joined us, the road became a little busier, however I once more declined heading out on the Trail. There was a shoulder for the most part and I never felt hassled.

With only ten or so miles completed I couldn't justify stopping at this interestingly named cafe. Kiwis do seem to have a more … relaxed approach to this kind of humour; I'm noticing it quite regularly.

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As the road heads eastwards, the hills that had been visible since yesterday drew closer. Imagine the Lake District fells rising up out of the Lincolnshire Fens and you'll get a sense of how dramatic the landscape was. After crossing the Thames river and with only a few miles to Thames (the town) and second breakfast, I at last took to the Trail, and it proved surprisingly delightful. I was particularly impressed with the provision of toilet facilities; what thoughtful planning.

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Once in Thames I stopped at a cafe and with my coffee I went for a beef salad croissant (new one on me!) and a cinnamon muffin. What I wasn't expecting was that I could have the muffin warmed and with butter. Intrigued, I had to give it a shot and I'm here to say it works! As I was finishing off, Steve arrived. We nattered for a while, but knowing my steadier pace, trying for a head start seemed appropriate.

After Thames all traffic towards Coromandel is funnelled onto the coast road which became busier as a consequence, but not worryingly so. I barely noticed, distracted as I was by the wonderful views which unfolded around each successive bend. The road is obliged to wind a narrow path, trapped between the hills and the surf. Steve soon surged past me at a clip, making a pace I couldn't possibly live with. Nor did I have the desire to try as I delighted in the vistas and paused for photos.

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I knew there was a substantial climb before Coromandel, so I switched the Garmin screen to topo view. Oh dear! Not one but two climbs! How had I missed that? So long as I know what's coming, I feel able to prepare mentally; surprises like that deliver a body blow. When the road began to head skywards, the enormity of what was to come struck home. It wasn't especially steep, compared with say Derbyshire climbs, and yet it went on and on, perhaps more like an Alpine climb. Try as I might I wasn't going to crest this one without a break, something that rarely happens to me. I can usually muster enough determination and effort. After not one, but two rest breaks where I took on water, regained my breath and allowed my heart rate to subside, I eventually crested the summit to be rewarded with stunning views.

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Couldn't enjoy them too long, not with another, albeit slightly smaller climb to come. Fewer metres to gain perhaps, but this one did for me. Four, yes four rest breaks were needed this time. What's happened to me?! In casting around for reasons, as I mentioned yesterday, maybe I'm more out of shape than I thought. Maybe the heat is more detrimental to my performance than I'd given it credit for. Of course I am carrying more on the bike than I perhaps have before, including almost three litres of water (at least at the start of the day). Or maybe I'm just getting old. Hell, there's no maybe about that!

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I rolled into Coromandel around four o'clock and was immediately impressed. Even more so than Thames, there is an almost frontier town vibe, but in a good way, and certainly in the architecture. After paying for a pitch on the ‘Top 10’ site (a reasonable NZ$22), whacking up the tent, I ambled into town to replace depleted energy reserves. From several options I settled on a Thai from an unassuming place, part restaurant, part takeaway. The food was more takeaway standard rather than restaurant, but there was plenty of it and it was relatively healthy. Remember the cheeky sparrows over here? With the restaurant windows wide open, one brazen little beast poked its beak in, saw there was only me around, then flew in and had a mooch around the floor searching for crumbs before flying back out. They've certainly got more attitude than their British counterparts.

My day came to a close back at the campground with a chat to one of the site managers - a Scot originally from Muckie. Small world.
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Day 3: Coromandel - Whitianga (28 miles, 2687 feet of ascent)

Chickened out?
Bottled it?
If you wish, but I prefer to see it as discretion being the better part of valour. Having found yesterday's climbs so tough and with my intended route taking on several more (some of which would be on gravel roads), it made sense to seek an alternative. Rather than first doing a loop of the Coromandel peninsula then crossing over to Matarangi on the east coast, I reluctantly decided to miss the loop and some of the sights. There were six significant climbs, two of which were decidedly higher than either of yesterday's. By missing the loop, I'd just have a single, though tough climb. 'A man's got to know his limitations' - H Callahan, 1973.

Another tardy departure after 10:00 gave the sun plenty of chance to climb higher in the sky. My slow starts are caused by wanting to allow the dew/condensation dampened tent to dry out. Maybe I should just get underway and let the tent dry out when I pitch it later?

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Coromandel memorial site.
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Main street through Coromandel

After briefly retracing my steps through Coromandel, I rejoined SH25 and almost immediately began the ascent. This was going to be a hot, long and demanding climb. Despite having fresh legs, it wasn't too long before I took the first of several breaks. At least I was rewarded with amazing views back over the town. By the time I reached the summit, I must have taken seven or eight breaks in all and was completely played out. I don't think I've ever taken so long to cycle a couple of miles! I'm going to blame my fatigue-addled brain for leaving my sunglasses somewhere on one of those breaks. I had no idea at which one they'd dropped off the bike or I’d set them down, but I sure wasn't going back to find out!

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Looking back over Coromandel
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What goes up of course …

Strangely, the descent didn't last as long as the ascent, but it also got the heart pounding albeit in a different way when my braking to take adequate advance note of some of the hairpins. On approaching Matarangi I'd pretty much decided to press on rather than stopping at the Kuaotunu campground as I'd originally planned. Despite the climb from Coromandel, I'd only done twenty miles. However, it was now after midday and time for lunch; I was starting to flag and needed a top up.

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Looking back across Matarangi beach

The 'road' out of Matarangi heads out along the cliff side and is little more than a track. It does however afford stunning views back along the bay. A short while later Kuaotunu opened before me and I started looking for 'Luke's Kitchen's', a cafe/restaurant I'd seen a sign for a few miles back. It wasn't hard to find and had a prime spot overlooking the beach. I treated myself to a grilled halloumi salad, chips with aioli and a refreshing glass of ginger beer. Sitting outside (in the shade) overlooking the beach whilst enjoying good food - priceless! Well, actually rather more than I’d normally budget for lunch at just over NZ$30.

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I don't do the chips thing often, but when they're served with aioli. C'mon!

Having elected to make my way to Whitianga, I knew I'd added in an extra climb, but this time I'd be on a full battery and was starting to get into my stride. It was slightly less demanding than the earlier one today, so I set my mind to reaching the summit without taking a time out. With only a couple of hundred (horizontal) metres to go, and confident I could make it, I rounded a bend to be confronted by roadworks. The single open lane was controlled by a stop-go sign … and it was currently against me. Darn! My first break-free summit snatched from my grasp.

Not far to Whitianga now and my target was The Whitianga Campground which is easily found along the seafront, although is more of a yomp rather than a brief stroll into town. At NZ$20, this was the cheapest site so far, but also a little tired and in need of a makeover. No matter. So long as I had a flat, quiet pitch and could get a shower, my needs would be met. It's also a small site so all the facilities were within easy reach of my pitch. After erecting the tent I headed into town to pick up some grub for the evening, but since it was too early to eat I called in the Four Square supermarket and gathered some makings. Whitianga's quite a place and noticeably larger than the two places I've stayed at so far. It seems tightly linked with the sea, whether through the stunning location which must draw holidaymakers and their cash, or those who moor their boats in the rather expensive looking Marina, or through those plying their trade on the water. One might even go so far as to see some similarities with Mediterranean resorts. Or maybe it was just the sun?

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Whitianga estuary and ferry crossing points

Back on site and having eaten, I once again found myself sitting outside in a comfy chair typing up my journal. So much better than being hunched over in a tent with the rain battering down. Inside the lounge a small group of what seem to be permanent residents were watching ‘The Chase’ with Bradley Walsh, whilst in the kitchen, an elderly Dutch couple were rattling pots and pans … and not in a rock and roll way! Actually it seemed a really peaceful, laid back site with an almost hippyish atmosphere.

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I was struck that the hills got the better of me and my route the last couple of days, but a Kiwi with whom I'd corresponded before travelling warned me I might be biting off more than I could chew. He was right. I'm here to enjoy the trip, the country and my cycling, and though I'm up for a challenge or two, that stops short of self-flagellation. Steady is the watchword!
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Day 4: Whitianga - Wentworth (47 miles, 2605 feet of ascent)

A day of ups and downs in more senses than one. I woke early as usual and rather than doze, decided to shake a leg and make first breakfast. Since the tent was much drier than on previous days I could strike camp earlier. OK, it was still almost 9:30 by the time wheels were rolling, but that's an improvement.

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I metaphorically waved goodbyes to my hippy chums and headed back into Whitianga. Today involved a short ferry journey across the estuary. Don't know why these excite me so, but I love ferry rides. This cost NZ$6.50 for me and the bike (I paid his fare), lasted only a few short minutes, but cut off a good dozen or so miles by the inland route.

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No more than a mile or so after disembarking I hit one of those one direction at a time roadworks and had to wait. After about five minutes the chap in the car in front got out and warned me it was likely to be an hour before things got moving. He suggested I could go back and catch the ferry (err, don't like ferries *that* much, nor did I fancy the extra mileage, especially without knowing the topography), or maybe the stop-go attendant might let me through. Tried the second option but on this occasion it was a 'no'; a power line was down and it was deemed unsafe. So I found some shade, took out my mp3 player and whacked ona podcast. This was beginning to look like a long day … but no! After a quarter of an hour we were on our way.

A lovely run along the back roads eventually returned me to SH25, which in all fairness was relatively quiet - not too much traffic and what there was was respectful. Blissful cycling in fact until of course the first climb of the day rose up out the valley floor. This didn't have quite the bite of previous climbs and offered a relatively gentle gradient. Had I been on an unloaded steed, I'm sure I'd have sailed up it. As it was, I did need a short break, simply to take a glug or two of water. I struggle to drink on a climb since I need both hands on the bars, so over the length of time these ascents take, a drink becomes vital. It's becoming clear that it's not so much the gradient that's punishing me, but the relentlessness - on and on and on.

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With one of two climbs today in the bag, I dropped into Tairua, a stunning coastal settlement with housing (Permanent? Holiday Bach's?) appearing to cater for the well-heeled. Rather than a sit down meal, I grabbed a sandwich and some fruit from the supermarket and chose my own location. Not too shabby!

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Tairua Beach

There seem to be a multitude of coves, inlets and beaches to explore along this stretch of coast. In a car I guess it's easy; on a bike a compromise has to be made. Do you try to cover more ground or explore an area in more detail. I opted for the former. GIven that I've traveled across the world to enjoy this amazing country I'd like to see as much as possible, BUT without rushing about in a frenzy.

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Mount Paku, Tairua

After refueling it was of course once more upwards, although I hadn't spotted this was a double hill where it climbs, drops back halfway, then regains once more the height you lost. Aargh! At least you (sometimes) get the views at the top. As I descended once more I was struck by the surrounding landscape and how angular many of the hills and peaks are. I wouldn't have thought they were volcanoes, given how small many of them are; surely they'd have eroded away over time? Or maybe they're former volcanic plugs from which the overburden has eroded? More geology homework needed!

I passed swiftly through Whangamata, the final town before tonight's campground. This was to be my first DoC (Dept. of Conservation) site; these are more basic than those I've stayed in so far. Getting from the main road to the campground provided my initiation to gravel roads. Oh dear! Looks like further adjustments to my forthcoming routes will be needed! This particular road seemed to have a combination of a central ridge (down which my tyres kept sliding if I wasn't careful) or washboard which threatened to dislodge either my panniers or my vertebrae! It was only a couple of miles but provided enough information to provoke my route rethink.

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Wentworth Campground reception

For a DoC site, it was reasonably well- equipped with toilets (long-drop), hot showers (although rudimentary of course) and simple pot washing facilities. It also supplied its own population of sandflies, so gave me the chance to become acquainted. They don't seem to be as infuriating as Scottish midges, nor do they appear to leave an irritating lump [I subsequently found that the red spot they leave behind does tend to persist though]. Slightly less painful than their counterparts across the globe, they do nevertheless draw blood. Taking a couple of cues from their appetite, I made a simple meal of noodles and tuna and retreated to my tent to write this.

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Seemed to be just me and one other tent on the whole campground

The taps had notices warning that the water should be boiled before drinking. I had a stove so could do that, but didn't really want to be boiling up litres for tomorrow's ride. It looked like I might have to break out the 'Sawyer Mini' filtration device I brought, or possibly last on the litre of fresh water I had left until the next town, a dozen or so miles down the road. A decision that could wait until tomorrow.
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Day 5: Wentworth -Te Aroha (51 miles, 2001 feet of ascent)

Despite (or perhaps because of) the sandflies and long-drop loos, Wentworth Campground was incredibly tranquil with only the local fauna occasionally interrupting the peace. Perhaps as a consequence I was able to muster a fairly early start, with wheels rolling along the dusty, gravel road and back onto SH25. As before, traffic was light and the road gently rolled until reaching Whiritoa where I temporarily left my route in search of fresh water. I knew I'd be needing it with the climbing to come. As a beach and surf facing town, it had toilets, showers and fortunately a water tap, so I was able to fully replenish my dwindling supply.

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From Whiritoa it was upwards, though at a sufficiently gentle rate that I was able to keep going almost to the top, stopping only briefly at a viewing station which actually afforded a less than spectacular panorama - I must have been spoiled by the Coromandel. A brief drop then back up (I do so hate those twin peaks - the hills, not the TV series) followed by a long steady descent into Waihi. This former mining town has made a feature of it's past, however, judging by some of the ‘No fracking’ signs up on some locals' properties, it looks like the mining companies are after another shot. I called at my first ever kiwi ‘bakery’ looking for a coffee and sandwich and was not disappointed. A 'filled roll' over here is definitely well filled! The Eccles cake on the other hand was a little disappointing - poor choice on my part.

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From Waihi I picked up an arm of the Hauraki Trail which swings through the Karangahake Gorge. Oh my, this was special! All off road, this section of the Trail might not be suited to road bikes, but boy is it worth doing, as the numerous leisure cyclists I passed seemed to confirm. Following the river through the gorge, you are treated to spectacular scenery, historical remnants of the industrial past, a variety of different bridges spanning the river and a tunnel cut through the mountainside. On entering the tunnel (it's gently lit so you don't need lights) I could hear singing echoing in the distance but couldn't make out what it was. As I travelled deeper the music got louder and louder until eventually I spotted ahead the source, a group of young men singing what might have been local folk music; it sounded like a Welsh male voice choir. It was well sung, very powerful and very moving.

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Leaving the gorge, the Trail emerges onto the Hauraki plains and sadly then became, for me, something of a disappointment. The surface is loose gravel, the trail is largely a series of long straights interrupted regularly by agricultural crossing points. It's hard, dusty work, as my formerly black now grey bike will attest. I considered joining SH26 which runs parallel, but it catered for much faster, busier traffic without the good grace of it's more northerly sister.

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Eventually the Trail spat me out in Te Aroha where I went in search of a supermarket to pick up comestibles for the evening's meal. A couple miles beyond town was the Te Aroha Holiday Park where I signed in for the night.

Thinking about the Hauraki Trail, the planners got some things right; the occasional toilet blocks could be a helpful facility for some people. If you have young family or are a less confident cyclist, then being off road may be an absolute boon. On the other hand, where the Trail passes near to a town, like Te Aroha, then some signage indicating what's available and how to get there would be good for both trail users and locals.
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Day 6: Te Aroha - Ngongotaha (62 miles, 2910 feet of ascent)

Right! Just so it's clear! NO MORE GRAVEL!

A fairly efficient start saw me out of the Holiday Park gate just after nine. Today was to be my longest day yet, with a big climb in the second half. Since I wasn't sure what food replenishment options were on the route I'd planned, I decided on rerouting through Matamata where I was fairly sure of picking something up.

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Just over a mile down the road and I hit the first set of roadworks; I do seem to be attracting their attention! I wonder if it's the same gang somehow checking on where I'm staying, then setting their roadblock ready to delay my progress. Fortunately only a short wait this time and off I went, settling into the steady rhythm that flat, straight roads such as these allow.

Missing any thrills, I decided to approach Matamata using SH27 which proved somewhat busier than roads I'd travelled so far. It was far from worrying though and there was usually an adequate shoulder to allow me to keep out of the way. On arriving in Matamata, perhaps the first (and most photographed?) sight is the i-site office, doing its best to remind visitors of one of the local attractions. Actually I preferred the name of the cafe a little further back up the road - "Griddle Earth."

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Matamata i-site office

With around twenty miles under the belt, second breakfast was justified and I dropped on a real classic - 'Ronnie's Cafe.' It offered a fantastic range of different sandwiches, filled rolls and sweet alternatives. I settled on a chicken salad roll which was as generously filled as the one I'd had a couple of days earlier. I needlessly followed this up with a banana filled pancake. Either on its own would have been adequate, but I felt justified knowing that the second half of my ride was to be more remote and more demanding.

The next twenty or so miles were spent on state highways and though better than the long, straight roads of the Hauraki Plain, it became necessary to keep one eye on the narrow shoulder and another watching the mirror for big trucks approaching from behind. Not fun.

Rather than pick up the busy SH5 all the way to Ngongotaha on Lake Rotorua where my overnight stop was to be, during planning I'd found a much quieter alternative, the 'Leslie Road.' The first few miles were fine, delightful even as the quiet country lane wound its way through rolling farmland pasture. Even when the climb started, it was quite gentle and undemanding ... other than heading inexorably upwards! The problems started when the tarmac ran out and the gravel began.

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This clearly was not a maintained road and perhaps even closed to cyclists? I'm afraid I'd come too far to head back so pressed on. I was definitely trapped between the proverbial. The gravel was so loose and the surface so rutted that progress proceeded glacially slowly. Often even the slightest inclines required me to dismount and walk-push to the top. Stopping every mile or so for a breather and quick drink started to concern me slightly that the two and a half litres I began the climb with might not be enough. One of the contributory factors was the number of times that the track often dropped twenty or so metres, something that's not visible when route planning at a larger scale.

Eventually I came to a t-juntion in the forest track, just before what I thought was to be the final leg to the summit. The route clearly should have been ahead, but it was no more than a path through the woods rather than a track. Beaten into submission I looked to alternatives and saw that a few miles along the track to the north I could pick up SH5. Not ideal, but better to be safe I figured. Sure enough, shortly later I was comfortable knowing I was heading in the right direction. In fact I was pretty sure that the last few miles ought to be downhill given how far I'd climbed and the elevation of the Lake. I was right; I didn't turn a pedal for over four miles. I can't imagine how unrelenting this journey would have been in the opposite direction.

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Campground along the banks of Lake Rotorua

Finally, after a little hunting around I found the Willowhaven Holiday Park, where I booked a pitch for the princely sum of NZ$17, or the same as I’d paid at the rather rudimentary DoC site which had far fewer facilities. I hoped the couple who pulled up in the side-door campervan would be somewhat more considerate than the two last night who parked less than six feet from my tent with the sliding door facing me. Open. Close. Open. Close. I became a little … tense! Rather than a quick slam, opening one of those doors is a long drawn out event. Sheesh!
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Day 7: Ngongotaha - Whakatane (63 miles, 1995 feet of ascent)

Another relatively early start, nudged by the distant, muted roar of the traffic along SH5. Breakfast done and wheels rolling before nine today. With a longer distance to cover, it needed to be. After navigating the admittedly localised town environs, it was onto the minor road which skirts the north coast of Lake Rotorua.

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Looking out over Lake Rotorua.

Having decided to avoid gravel where possible, a route amendment was needed for today. Rather than take a back country track to the north of Rotorua's smaller sister lakes, I opted instead for SH30 which runs to the south. It proved to be an inspired choice, albeit more reliant on luck rather than good judgement. The road was quiet, generously proportioned and traced a stunning route alongside the lakesides in a way the earlier section alongside Lake Rotorua often failed to achieve. Leaving Rotorua also brought the additional benefit of leaving behind the slight, but persistent sulphurous odour. I imagine it would be far more intense near the mud pools, but ever since leaving town there was a whiff of something in the air … and before anyone asks, no it wasn't me!

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Lake Rotoma

Another reason for taking this alternate route was the slightly higher chance of finding some nourishment on the road; the northern, more remote route offered almost no chance whatsoever. Just at the time my appetite was rising and energy levels plummeting, a roadside shop/cafe hove into view. One hot pork filled roll, a brownie and a decent cuppa later and I was ready to press on.

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Jetties along the bankside of Lake Rotoiti

As I cycled between lakes, alongside the road at one point was a isolated tree with an information board. I stopped to read and uncover the story of ‘Hinehopu’, named after a Maori chieftainess. As I read, several cars which passed honked their horns, leaving me clueless as to why. Was I being disrespectful in some way, or were they just offering encouragement, a kiwi version of ‘Chapeau’?

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Hinehopu's tree

Eventually the road briefly headed upwards away from the lakes, however, I was only too aware of how high this area was, so readied myself for a descent. Once more, I wasn't disappointed and like yesterday my tired legs were rewarded with a lengthy break. The hills over in this area allow a more relaxed downhill swoop than those further north, where I invariably found myself clutching the brake levers for dear life.

When eventually I came out of the hills, rejoined the original route and set out across the plains, I'd pretty much resigned myself that I was nearly in Whakatane. Err, no. There was still a good twenty miles to complete and it was once more back to the long, straight roads. With the sun beating down, when I rolled into the little settlement of Edgecombe, I was relieved to find a little shop where an ice cream and litre of chilled fruit juice saw me though the final dozen miles.

Whakatane is a larger town than those I've stayed in since Auckland, so it took a while to find the campground. The Garmin however, performed its job admirably. I'd decided during planning that this would be my first rest day so I booked two nights. Again, only NZ$17 per night for a good quality campground, and one on the riverside.

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Whakatane Gardens

After pitching the home and taking a much needed shower, I followed directions into town through a beautiful park and gardens. When I came across a rather plush Indian restaurant, that made up my mind. Tickling my taste buds was a mushroom and pea masala, naan and a green salad. Oh and plain rice which, unlike in the UK, was an integral part of the order. No matter, my appetite was up to it. Including a bottle of pear cider brought the order total to NZ$38, which I thought was reasonable.

Having ambled back through the lovely park, I retired to the comfy seats in the TV lounge to write my journal. A young couple came in to watch the TV (it is a TV lounge after all), but oh dear. New Zealand, your popular TV programmes do you no favours. Programmes, presenters, adverts - all loud, all fast. Then again, I suspect anyone dropping on certain UK channels might also be unimpressed. And yes, I realise only too well I'm an old f*rt!
 

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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Day 8: Whakatane - Rest Day

The legs were more than ready for a breather today and Whakatane turned out to be a good place to allow them that. I was also able to take advantage of the site washing machines to give my gear a proper going over. Unfortunately the site had no single-load sachets of washing powder so I had to buy some from the local supermarket. The smallest box was 500g so should see me through the rest of the trip and avoid having to use soap to do the daily wash. It also meant of course that I'd have an extra pound or so to haul up the hills!

As I mentioned earlier my black bike was currently grey from the dust picked up during the time grinding across gravel. With a day out of the saddle, I could give the steed the wash it needed.

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Looking out along the Whakatane River estuary

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Kiwi sculpture on Whakatane promenade

Jobs done, I turned my mind to the forthcoming route. The next few days around the East Cape to Gisborne were fine, but then I was due to head inland across to Taupo spending a couple of days largely on gravel. I didn't fancy that, so needed a rethink; this is where New Zealand becomes a challenge. There's no direct public transport between Gisborne and Taupo; to get there by bus, you have to first travel to Napier then catch another bus (the following day!) to Taupo … but the first leg (supposedly) involves a bus that can't carry bikes! To get across to the 'Forgotten World Highway' (which I'd still like a shot at, despite a shortish gravel stretch), I do need to get to Taupo first. So my current plan is to cycle from Gisborne to Napier over a couple of days - this will involve spending some on SH2, but based on the short stretch I did on the way to Whakatane which I found manageable, I'm prepared to give it a shot. But I'll see when I get to Gisborne.

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i-site office in Whakatane

After rustling up a tentative plan, I headed off for a wander around the town, once more enjoying the walk through the park. The town really has done a good job there. After visiting the i-site to check that my research regarding the buses was correct (the Scot on the desk confirmed it was), I cast around for somewhere I might get lunch. On another sunny day, a salad appealed, but when I spotted 'Ginger Slice', not knowing what it was I had to give it a try. Yeah, its pretty much a ginger fudge with crystallised ginger chunks. Probably ought to have been a cycling day when I indulged in that … but it was good! It also struck me for the first time that I was sitting comfortably outside - in February - enjoying good food whilst watching the world go by. Ah, the life!

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A restful afternoon and evening followed, with only a brief journal account called for. Back on the road tomorrow to see what the remote East Cape has to offer.
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Day 9: Whakatane - Te Kaha (73 miles, 3789 feet of ascent)

Best day so far? Possibly.

Wheels rolling just after nine and what better way to kick off than with a climb. The cliffside that provides the backdrop for Whakatane actually has a road running up it. I now know this because with less than half a mile's warm up, off we went.

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Dropping down into Ohope

The climb and the vistas it afforded set the tone for the remainder of the day. The road returned to sea level and traced it's way around inlets and salt marshes where an abundance of wading birds dipped for lunch. There were few I recognised, though I was rarely close enough to note any details, and had I been, I'm not sure my birding nouse is of an adequate level to pick out more than the common species.

Ohope was the first settlement after the mud flats. Passing through, and from the properties I saw, it seemed to be a location along the shore for the well-heeled. There was even a gated community under development; is that needed in New Zealand? Onwards from Ohope the route continued around bays and inlets, revealing new views with each turn. This is the kind of cycling I particularly enjoy. On one descent I passed by a sign that said 'Springwater for free,' and there was an elderly couple topping up various containers. I stopped and although I had barely used half of my first bidon, quickly returned to the spring. It was interesting chatting with the couple about the water source and the importance it had for them, even though they have piped municipal water at their home. I filled my bottle and left a small donation as requested.


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Maori marae entrance

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Second breakfast today was taken in Opitike, the last (or first) town as you travel 'The Coast' as folks call it. I'm now getting the hang of spotting bakeries which tend to serve the range of filled rolls, hot pies and delicious pastries that fill the mid-morning/lunch energy requirements. NZ$10 bought me a large filled roll, apple slices and pot of tea. It had to be substantial; as I head further along the Cape, the remainder of the day was unlikely to present much in the way of locations offering sustenance. What it did have though was view after view after view. Sure they had to be hard won, but boy were they worth it. Coast roads rarely give up their riches without a fight and so too it was with this one.

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Impressive bridge out of Opotike, particularly given that it serves the needs of walkers and cyclists, not motor vehicles.

That it was becoming more remote was evident by the increasingly sparse settlements and the blissfully rare cars; perhaps only one every five minutes on average? Whether there's a link between the increasing remoteness and that the Cape appears to retain a strong Māori heritage, I'm not in a position to say. Might one follow the other, and if it does, in which direction?

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As the seventieth mile rolled over, I was becoming increasingly tired. Another tough day of climbing coupled with the extra distance was taking its toll. Signs indicating Te Kaha couldn't have been more welcome, especially the one which stated it was the Motor Lodge and Camp. And outside calling me over was another cycle tourer, a Frenchman called Matt. We nattered for a while as tourers do, then we both stumped up the reasonable sum of NZ$14 for a pitch for the night. As we pitched tents, made and ate our meals, we chatted further about our tours. Matt had been travelling much longer than I and had further plans which included Vietnam and Nepal. Interestingly, he spent some of his time 'Woofing.' Apparently it was invented in the UK and involves giving labour in exchange for bed and board. You learn something new every day.
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Day 10: Te Kaha - Te Araroa (60 miles, 3678 feet of ascent)

After a rather unsettled night's sleep brought on by a surprising increase in humidity, the day began slightly earlier than normal. Matt was already well under way packing, but we took our breakfasts together before wishing one another well and parting to head in opposite directions. He had another 'woofing' appointment in Opotike, where I'd passed through the day before.

Wheels rolling before nine then into what promised to be a humid and sweaty day. The theme for the day's cycling picked up where yesterday's left off - hugging the coast, crossing estuaries where rivers flowed out to sea, and rolling up and down in tune with how the landscape obliged the road designers to perform their art. Once more the views were stunningly beautiful, especially in the afternoon when the sun burned off the cloud cover.

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Te Rangiharu Bay

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Christ Church, Raukokore

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Hicks Bay

As I was traversing one lengthy curved bay, I could see another touring cyclist in the distance heading my way. When our paths eventually met, we both took the excuse for a breather and a chat. Roger was a Brit, although resident in Norway, who by virtue of retirement was also able to take longer tours and was clearly more experienced than I. He had recently struck out solo after having a couple of weeks cycling with his daughter on the South Island. As we chewed the fat over the next thirty or so minutes, he became a mine of useful information to help me with my future plans. Not least about tonight and giving the Te Araroa Motor Camp a miss; Roger had not been impressed, but thanks to a suggestion from Matt I had an alternative option, a backpackers hostel with camping. Two tourers in two days, and after not seeing another soul since Miranda!

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Looking down the bay towards Te Araroa​

I swept past my intended stop and headed further on to seek the backpackers, spotting its sign a few miles further on and adding the bonus of shortening tomorrow's ride a little. The hostel had a very hippy, bohemian feel; very welcoming, very relaxed. So I once more found myself sitting outside on a veranda typing my journal, the only thing missing perhaps, a glass of chilled wine or beer. Given I've still another two days lugging the bike and myself up and down the hills around the coast, maybe it would be smarter if the alcohol waited.

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Te Araroa Backpackers
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Day 11: Te Araroa - Tokomaru Bay (49 miles, 4035 feet of ascent)

Another humid night begat another humid day, but on the bright side provoked another early start. A last use of the well-equipped backpacker's kitchen (porridge followed by peanut butter on tortilla as usual) then wheels rolling by 8:30.

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Straight out of the site and onto the first hill. Had I stayed in the Motor Park where I'd originally planned, I’d have benefited from a few miles to warm up first; instead it was up and at 'em quite literally then! Today's route continued to follow SH35 which now struck out inland rather than hugging the coast. After a couple of climbs, the road dropped into then followed a wide valley (possibly glacial, but don't put my geological knowledge to the test!) for a dozen or so miles. The terrain remained similar throughout, though began to climb steadily after Tikitiki. No refreshment point here, nor in fact for almost all today's ride, and certainly nowhere near the halfway point. A snack at the roadside repeated breakfast (minus the porridge, but supplemented by a banana) and was all that was on offer.

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Tikitiki Church
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The roadworks crew that seem to have been plaguing my progress were once more up to their tricks near the summit of the long, protracted climb, but I was always grateful for a rest and slurp.

Not far ahead at Te Puia Springs, the welcome sight of a cafe and shop came into view as I rounded a bend. With only a few miles remaining, I still took the opportunity to reward myself with a coffee and an ice cream. A perfect antidote to the afternoon's rising temperature. Then after cresting the summit, a long and delicious descent into Tokomaru Bay. The campground was cheap at NZ$8 (+ $2 for the shower), but the facilities were rather rustic; at least it meant I had the site almost to myself. A notice pointed out that all water had to be boiled before drinking, which once more had implications for topping up my bidons tomorrow. However, there was a supermarket just up the road where I could buy a bottle before setting off in the morning. It did give me pause for thought about the communities that live out in such remote areas; turning on a tap to get instant, potable water is something many of us perhaps take for granted.

Although the views were often awe-inspiring, there was also a degree of sameness to them today. There was less a sense of excitement at what might be round the next headland or over the next ridge as there had been in the previous couple of days. Let's see what tomorrow brings.
 
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