Meandering around Te Ika-a-Māui, New Zealand's North Island in early 2020

[IaninSheffield]

Day 12: Tokomaru Bay - Gisborne (58 miles, 3041 feet of ascent)

And back on the coast of 'The Coast' … at least for the closing few miles. But the day didn't start so we'll. During the night, and for the first time since I've been on the Island, it rained. I was lucky to wake just as it began, having left the tent door open to improve flow through of air on these humid nights. Nothing too wet then, except the rain then continued through to the morning and definitely left the tent well dampened!

I arose and went to make breakfast in slight drizzle, although that too eased and I decided to pack, ready for the off. With a wet tent, I dropped the inner first and packed that separately to keep it dry. After completing packing and then loading the bike, I fired up the Garmin to load today's route. 'No courses' it said. That suggested one thing, a missing SD card. Yep, after uploading yesterday's track, I failed to return the card to the Garmin. However, I didn't need it for today's route, given it's just a matter of following SH35 to Gisborne. However, also on the card is the NZ base map and without that I had no supplementary information, such as topography. After a brief search, I thought I'd better get under way. It was after ten by the time I'd faffed around and finally got wheels rolling … straight into a climb of course and towards the clouds which were shrouding the local hills. In the wet and still warm conditions, the humidity went through the roof making the climb exhausting, but I got there in one. Today’s initial stage of about twenty miles was once more inland until dropping eventually towards Tolago Bay. On the way down I met and chatted for a while with a Kiwi cyclist, Kevin, who was heading up to the East Cape to begin a Cape to Cape challenge event. His gravel bike and bike-packing setup were definitely better suited to the rough stuff than mine. He also suggested which of the Tolago Bay cafes was the best for my second breakfast. On arrival in Tolago I followed his suggestion; today's fare was a hot pie followed by banana cake and a cuppa. Not the greatest, but it topped up the batteries.

It also gave me the chance to have a good rummage and yippee, I found the missing SD card and returned it to the Garmin. That now meant I once more had the topographical information I wanted to allow me to monitor progress on those long climbs.

Onwards the route wove through a sequence of valleys, before once more heading skyward for another double climb - one of those where, having reached one summit, you immediately drop back to the valley floor to begin another. Joy! Eventually however, one descent dropped me back onto the coast which I then followed for the final fifteen miles to Gisborne. Naturally there were a couple of headlands to swing up and around, just to remind the lungs and legs why they were on this trip.

Looking across Tatapouri Bay towards Makarori headland​

Navigating to the campsite with the Garmin back in action was easy; without it I would have struggled. Given its location near the city centre and almost on the beach, it came as no surprise that this was the most expensive site yet at NZ$28 per night. I slipped in a rest day here to have a look around Gisborne and recover from The Coast. A quick walk into town led me to a Thai restaurant where I had a mixed starter, chicken and pineapple fried rice, and a roti on the side. With a bottle of cider to wash it down, the bill came to just over NZ$36 (or around £18) which I thought was a bargain. If I don't find anything else when I go for a wander tomorrow, I just might pop back again.

Clock tower, Gisborne

Delicious Thai mixed starter​

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 13: Gisborne rest day (11 miles)

After a very warm night under canvas (well, sil nylon, but you get the picture) I was up earlier than I needed. With laundry to do, I guess I could nab a machine before most other folks stirred, and it meant being able to use a few more grams of that washing powder I was lugging around!. While the suds did their thing, I got on with breakfast and by the time I'd done, the washing machine and I had coordinated our activities sufficiently well that I could hang out the fresh smelling results.

A walk to the nearby i-site allowed me to scan through, in air-conditioned comfort, the available leaflets and brochures of the places I might yet visit. More importantly, I enquired about the possibility of a bus down to Napier, this time with slightly more reassuring news than in Whakatane. It was a single-decker bus and could take the bike, subject to the driver's discretion - not exactly ideal, but better news than I'd had before. So a space was provisionally booked and I didn't have to part with (and possibly forfeit) any cash until I had the driver's permission. I then had an amble around town. Gisborne is not a large place, but does have the (dubious?) distinction of being where Captain Cook first set foot on (what later became) New Zealand soil, subsequently establishing less than amicable relationships with the local Māori.

Statue of 'Little Nick,' Cook's seaman who spotted this very land on the horizon

Cook Monument​

After a coffee and a bite to eat, I collected some chilled fixings for an evening meal I could later enjoy al fresco, then popped back to the site to retrieve my now dry washing. What a life I lead! I picked up the bike and went out for a short bimble (yes I know it was meant to be a rest day!) along Marine Drive, which follows the coast of Poverty Bay (so named by Cook) for a few miles. Flat and largely unexciting, but the onshore sea breeze kept the heat at bay for a while.

The confluence of the Taruheru and Waimata Rivers had been little more than muddy flats when the tide was out a few hours earlier

Looking back towards Gisborne from out along Poverty Bay.​

On returning to base I passed a pitch further down the site from mine on which three gravel bikers were temporarily stabled. I stopped for a natter and it transpired they're on the same 'Cape to Cape' event I saw Kevin heading up to the Cape for yesterday. They had a transfer tomorrow, ready for the start on Sunday. It sounded like an interesting but challenging route mixing road and gravel.

I took my evening meal sitting in the shade on a bench looking out to sea across Poverty Bay. A more healthy offering than last night's: fresh bread rolls, hummus, Greek salad, followed by a fresh fruit salad which (surprisingly, but deliciously) included fresh coconut, and all washed down with another Kombucha. Think I might be getting a taste for this.

Back in my tent I hoped the temperature would drop sufficiently to allow me to pack ready for an early start in the morning. Fingers crossed for a kindly bus driver.

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 14: Gisborne - Napier the easy (cheaters?) way! Only 10 cycling miles.

This was the first time I set an alarm since leaving home; I didn't want to miss a shot at the daily service from Gisborne to Napier. The assistant in the i-site suggested arriving early to allow time to get permission for the bike from the driver, then buy a ticket. I arrived at the i-site an hour early, but at least it gave me the chance to grab a coffee from the local bakery ... then rush back to the campground to pick up the butties I'd left in the fridge! The bus arrived around forty minutes before it was due to leave and thankfully the driver was only too obliging with the bike. Ticket bought at the last minute price of NZ$46 (you can get cheaper tickets if you're able to buy in advance), but for a three hour journey I thought that wasn't too bad.

Off we set on time and I then got to see the roads from a driver's rather than a cyclist's perspective. Once away from the environs of Gisborne, I became even more grateful I'd taken the bus. SH2 had little if any shoulder for most of the way and had several demanding climbs. If I hadn't been able to catch the bus, there was a back road as far as Wairoa, but then (having decided not to head inland and pick up a gravel route) SH2 would have been my only option. Lucky to have dodged that bullet.

On arriving in Napier I set off to find the i-site to book my next leg to Taupo. It quickly became clear there was some sort of festival celebrating Napier's swinging, art deco past. People were dressed in period costume, there were a handful of street performances, and several classic cars were cruising the streets. A good time to be here ... or maybe not, if you needed accommodation. I booked my bus ticket for the following day, worrying that if I took the rest day I had intended, I might not be able to get two, let alone one night's accommodation.

Twenties(?) dance group performing in Napier​

My target was well out of town. The Westshore Motel and Campground had been suggested as a good place by Richard, the cyclist I met back on the East Cape. Luckily the bus had passed it on the way in so I knew how to get back. Although it was early afternoon, I thought I better check in as soon as possible to stand the best possible chance of securing a pitch. In fact that's all they did have, cabins and motel rooms all having gone. I'm not sure whether the fee of NZ$30, the most expensive yet, reflected a price hike for the festival, but it's sure not because the site was better than yesterday's! The place was OK, just not of the same standard as some of the cheaper sites I've stayed at. Any port in a storm I guess.

I then had to cycle back into town to pick up something to eat, then fight my way back against the headwind once more whilst returning to the site. There were a few people on pitches near me who, given their dress, were also here for the festival. One has even brought a second world war jeep! My bus wasn't until after midday tomorrow so I had plenty of time to wander around town and explore the Festival.

[If you would like to leave a comment, make an observation or ask a question, please feel free to do so … on any post]​

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Lucky to get your tour in when you did. New Zealand and Australia plan to keep borders closed for some time. It’s 19 years since I was in New Zealand, beautiful place.

 

[IaninSheffield]

Lucky to get your tour in when you did. New Zealand and Australia plan to keep borders closed for some time. It’s 19 years since I was in New Zealand, beautiful place.

Indeed. Got back in Blighty just a week before the shutters came down.

 

[jay clock]

I am loving it. I did pretty much the same route in 2009 https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=2sf&doc_id=3226&v=Ha . The hill out of Cormandel was murderous and I still mention it now.. My blog said

"I then had the steepest hill of my laden touring life - 3.7km from sea level to 370m, but the first 1km was flat so that makes the rest about 14%. I resorted to 250m then a stop and a rest. At least it was tarmac-ed! It was only done a couple of years back. UPDATE: I just did an analysis of it and it peaks at 19%!! see here https://ridewithgps.com/routes/26496955"​

​

You then did what I did and got buses to Napier and it looks like Taupo...

Keep it coming

 

[IaninSheffield]

Ooo, how did I miss your journal?! That's now going to provide me with a few hours of enjoyment comparing notes.
Much appreciated. Thanks J

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 15: Napier to Taupo (Another cheat; only 7 miles)

Today the gods, both big and small, smiled down on me. Nay, they positively beamed!

Up early once more, but with no targets to meet until the bus at 13:20, I was able to enjoy a leisurely potter around making breakfast. Even had half an hour reading a book available in the site book exchange. As I was striking the tent, my neighbours who arrived late last night struck up a chat. Kiwis both, the husband was a retired engineer who took up as a school caretaker in later life and was absolutely loving it. The pair had come down for the Art Deco Festival, something I now had the chance to wander around.

Folks enjoying the Jazz/Blues band playing on the street corner in Napier.​

I made my way back to Napier taking a cycle route along the seashore and quayside. Heading into town I met wave after wave of cyclists dressed in period costume for the event, some even on appropriate bikes. They seemed to be taking delight in their experience, from the youngest littlies to the more mature crinklies. The weather was certainly being generous for the moment, but last night's forecast had been less than promising. Before reaching town I came across my camping neighbours from last night who were just unhitching their bikes ready for a ride along the seafront to enjoy the festivities.

The Old Custom House​

Having ridden a way down the esplanade, I returned to town and walked the bike through some of the thronged streets. Every so often I'd stop and enjoy a few minutes of jazz or swing from the street bands, like many of the events, there to enjoy for free. Several of the streets were closed to traffic to enable parades to troop past the crowds.

In addition to the classic cars I mentioned yesterday, there was also a display of classic motorbikes and a smaller, but no less impressive gathering of steam traction engines. Around lunchtime, the Festival even took to the skies with aeronautical displays, singly and in formation. All very impressive and doubtless contributing to the chilled atmosphere and sense of joy which suffused the day. It really was an absolute pleasure to be there.

After a coffee and bite of lunch I headed to the small bus station to find that the surrounding streets were the holding locations for the mass classic car parade.. Although I would be gone before it rolled through town, I nevertheless was treated to a good glimpse of the wide variety of cars being pampered and preened. From the humblest Austin to the most ostentatious Bentley, cars from around the globe fired up their engines. Well, most of them did; one or two coughed and spluttered obstinately for a while.

When the coach arrived I was glad to find the driver expecting a bike and even give it its own compartment, although this time I did need to remove a front wheel to get the bike on. Nor did this driver want to accept then NZ$10 fee the Intercity website suggests should be paid. It looks like bikes on buses, when not a double-decker and where services are quieter, isn't too much hassle after all. As the journey unfolded I was so glad that the leg I'd considered cycling - the reverse of this journey - never got further than the drawing board. Taupo is at altitude and the climbs were brutally long. Even in the direction I'd considered, from Taupo to Napier, there were several significantly difficult climbs, added to which there was only one stopping point on the whole seventy plus miles. I'd have really struggled and the majestic scenery would have been poor compensation, especially given the busy road and rare shoulders.

My first port of call after arriving in Taupo was the i-site and ask if they could check local campgrounds to see if any had small cabins free. The roads had been wet on much of the way up and the forecast was for showers for most of the afternoon. I figured that a roof over my head might be a smart move tonight. Furthermore, most of my devices, including battery banks, were running low on charge. The assistant in the i-site unfortunately reported all cabins appeared to be booked. I thought about a backpacker's hostel, there are a handful in town, but then headed for the nearest campsite, another Top 10 like the ones I'd stayed in previously. When I arrived I asked if they had any 'basic' cabins left; these have nothing more than four bunks in them, but they do have power. Result! Got the last one! A splurge at NZ$58, but I figured worth it on this occasion.

With gathering clouds I quickly headed back into town to pick up some grub from the supermarket and get back before the weather closed in. I made it with minutes to spare. From my little cabin there was a covered walkway to the toilets and showers ten yards away, and another covered walkway to the kitchen which was even closer. And they were needed!

After a shower I headed to the kitchen to enjoy my ciabatta, hummus and three bean, bulgur wheat salad. Sounded good, but the salad dressing was far too sweet, and the hummus … well, this is the third I've tried now and despite them purportedly having very different ingredients, they all taste the same - a slightly curried flavour. The bread was good though and I accompanied it with another Kombucha. Around nine o’clock the site started to quieten down as young ones were ushered to bed (I'd have been in bed hours ago at their age!). I reacquainted myself with a mattress for the first time in a couple of weeks. It looked like we were going to get along.

[If you would like to leave a comment, make an observation or ask a question, please feel free to do so … on any post]​

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 16: Taupo - Turangi (35 miles, 928 feet of ascent)

Back on the bike today, but fortunately only a short bimble to Turangi given that I suffered a rather poor night's sleep. I don't know whether it was being indoors for the first time in a while, or that the mattress sagged alarmingly in the middle. However, since I had three other bunks to choose from or could have taken to the floor on my air mattress, I have only myself to blame.

What was most noticeable upon emerging in the morning was how chilly it was in comparison with previous days. At first I thought it might have been because I had been indoors, but no, the temperature had dropped to something perhaps more normal. The humidity had also lifted so the wet front that blasted through yesterday must have dragged behind it some fresher weather.

Breakfast consisted of porridge of course (although a different brand, not in sachets and more like ‘proper’ porridge), and toasting the ciabatta left from yesterday's evening meal. With no tent to strike and a short day ahead, I was in no rush, so lay on the bed reading for half an hour - what luxury! When I eventually got wheels rolling I had once more put on my arm warmers, but this time not to keep the sun off, but the chill. It wasn't merely sunny today; there was a crispness to the light as well as the air.

Reid's Carving, a waharoa or gateway to Lake Taupo​

I chose to wander back through Taupo rather than head straight out, but was just a little early for the pop-up market setting up on one of the greens. I suppose I could have hung around a while, but I was conscious that although only a ride of some thirty miles, today would be almost entirely on SH1, reputedly the country's busiest road. However, it was a Sunday so maybe traffic would be lighter and there would be fewer trucks? I have to say that although there was slightly more traffic than on most of the roads I've travelled so far, it still wasn't too bad … and I was passed by only a couple of trucks. For most of the ride the shoulder was more than ample, except after the descent from the plateau where the road had to be carved from the mountainside, clinging tightly to it. Only the middle section spent up on the plateau left the lakeside for any length of time, so it really was a wonderful ride. Had I taken the quieter (longer and hillier) more northerly route I would hardly have seen the lake at all. This shorter, though busier, route had the mesmerising backdrop of Lake Taupo to keep you entertained, especially in the crisp sunshine.

State Highway 1 heading down to Lake Taupo. Not too busy at this time.​

I stopped for second breakfast at the Licorice Cafe just six or so miles short of Turangi. I could have carried on, but the prospect of a coffee in a nice cafe was too good to ride by. As I took my time over coffee and cake, a chap came across and looked over the bike - a common conversation opener. Wayne was born a Kiwi, but now a Canadian and thinking of doing a coast to coast across his own beautiful land. Naturally we chatted for a while about the merits of different setups. I suspect the hills of New Zealand have taught me that those of Canada might be more than I could take … or perhaps the plains would break me? Nevertheless I wished Wayne well in his planning.

In only a few short miles Turangi metaphorically opened its doors, although not so much the site where I planned to stay. The office didn't open for another hour, which was as good an excuse as I know to head off for another coffee and a bite of lunch. I also dropped in to the i-site to see if they had any materials relating to my next few days. Turns out 'The Forgotten World Highway' has its own leaflet, although it gave me little more information than I already had. I'm hoping to camp in Whangamomona, but can find nothing more online than the campground's Facebook page. Maybe the i-site in Taumarunui might know a little more? I'll find out tomorrow I guess.

i-site in Turangi​

After returning to the site I managed to get checked in, although there would be no cabin tonight … not that I needed one. All cabins on site, and there were a lot, were booked out to a massive school group. Fortunately I was allocated a tent pitch on the other side of the camp and when the hordes arrived, I could barely hear them. This empty part of camp started to fill a little including a Finnish touring cyclist on his fifth trip of New Zealand. After a long chat into the evening we seem to be similar ages, had shared similar careers, but he was certainly far better travelled than me. Still I suppose there's time yet.

Until a few others arrived, this part of campground was almost deserted ... just my little tent up the end there.

[If you would like to leave a comment, make an observation or ask a question, please feel free to do so … on any post] ​

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 17: Turangi - Taumaranui (44 miles, 2959 feet of ascent)

It was a decidedly chilly night last night! I was within a hair's breadth of digging out a pair of socks for my cold little toes. It probably wasn't helped by me having to make three ablutions trips during the night. Wrestling oneself from a sleeping bag and liner, pulling on clothes, then exiting a tent is not a simple process in the pitch black, only to then have to reverse it shortly later. On the plus side, this seems to be a 'dark sky' area and last night's clear skies rendered amazing views of a night sky I'm not familiar with; an inverted Orion for example. Rarely too have I enjoyed such a clear view of the Milky Way. With a little more forethought I should perhaps have dug out the camera for a night shot or two.

I stirred late in the morning; it was after eight by the time I was preparing breakfast. Yesterday, with a fridge at the site, I bought some fresh milk with which to liven up the day's porridge. Delicious! Good too to have some milk for my coffee. Must try that again. My Finnish friend was ready for the off before I'd started breakfast, but we exchanged good wishes before he rolled out the gate. He has an interesting set up with two front panniers and none at the rear. It was almost ten by the time I had wheels rolling and began the day heading north up the westward side of Lake Taupo.

Hydroelectricity generation at Tokaanu

Looking back towards Lake Taupo for the last time.​

I couldn't figure out what was wrong with the profile screen of the Garmin which showed two little blips then just a single continuous climb and descent for the remainder of the forty mile route. Maybe the altitude data hadn't exported into the gpx file fully? Darn! That meant I wouldn't be able to follow my progress up climbs properly, as was my wont. It transpired that the profile was indeed correct and there was one main climb which went on and on with barely a handful of breaks. Fortunately the gradient wasn't too steep so I'm pleased to say I made the five(?) hundred metres without a break. The views across to the volcanic peaks was stunning. Ruapehu, at almost 3000m was still snow capped, but by the time I reached my little summit to stop and catch a photo, it hid behind its own personal cloud mask.

Looking across to Tongariro (left) and Mount Ruahepu (cloud-covered)​

I checked the odometer before starting down and by the time I'd reached the bottom I'd done almost nine miles of uninterrupted descent … somewhat more quickly than I'd ascended the other side I should add. The final almost flat miles brought me to the Taramanui Holiday Park on the banks of the Whanganui. It's a small, quiet picturesque little site, and good value at NZ$17, but if you need to shop, as I did, be warned that it's a 4km ride/walk into town.

I found a bakery for both a bite to eat and a coffee before popping across to the i-site to check on the campground for tomorrow night. If all goes to plan I should be halfway along the Forgotten World Highway at Whangamamona, but their online presence consists of a Facebook page rather than a website, which worries me a little. The assistant in the i-site tried ringing them but only got the answer machine which said 'If you're looking to camp, just come along; it'll be fine.' Guess I'll give it a shot and see, having few other options out in the back of beyond. The i-site is in the railway station buildings which look sadly little used; I can't recall whether the Northern Explorer stops here. This image is not helped by the forlorn look of the rolling stop left to decay in the sidings. Untapped or rejected potential perhaps?

I returned to site and completed the routine of shower, laundry and evening meal, although this time had the company of the site chickens which unsurprisingly appear to thrive in the presence of campers. It's a relaxed atmosphere here; the site appears to currently be under half capacity. I briefly had a chat with a South African chap who's doing the North to South, Te Araroa Challenge with his wife. They're on a 26 day deadline but are looking more to enjoy themselves than push to finish. A healthy attitude I'd say. I wonder if I'll come across any of the West to Easters in the next day or two?

[If you would like to leave a comment, make an observation or ask a question, please feel free to do so … on any post] ​

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Really enjoying this! In fact it's my weekend treat

I'm teased by all the food descriptions

Can't understand your reluctance to take "photographic opportunities" on the climbs and your insistence in calling them "breaks" as if they're bad

You seem to have been very lucky in your timing!

Keep up the fantastic work!

 

[IaninSheffield]

Really enjoying this! In fact it's my weekend treat

I'm teased by all the food descriptions

Can't understand your reluctance to take "photographic opportunities" on the climbs and your insistence in calling them "breaks" as if they're bad

You seem to have been very lucky in your timing!

Keep up the fantastic work!

Grasshopper: So hill climbing breaks are photographic opportunities? Master, I am puzzled.
Master Po Hobbes: But Grasshopper, that is the beginning of wisdom.

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 18: Taumarunui - Whangamamona (58 miles, 4219 feet of ascent)

Another chilly night but this one concluded with a tent very damp with condensation and dew; it would definitely need drying. But the sun was rising and offering plenty of promise, so that shouldn't take too long. Had another chat with the South Africans over breakfast. It's interesting to see how our countries and cultures compare; the cost of living, politics, transport, employment. Different things frustrate, delight or worry us, but my own sense of 'the grass is greener' has mellowed since coming to New Zealand and especially since nattering with folks from other countries.

It was well after ten thirty by the time the tent was dry and I was ready to roll. Much later than I'd have preferred given that I faced nearly sixty miles distance with a side order of climbing. Taumarunui, just a couple of miles down the road, was far too early for second breakfast. Knowing there were no other options, I had made up a couple of butties and had an apple and a banana to see me through. That didn't quite go according to plan!

Canoeists on the Wanganui River

​

The first dozen or so miles of the ‘Forgotten World Highway’ followed the Whanganui River and yielded impressive views over the gorge it had cut. There were folks down below on a canoeing trip, taking it relatively easy and paddling with the flow. They soon disappeared from view as the road rolled up and down, until the first of five climbs took me away from the river and up into the hills. It was nowhere near as long a climb as yesterday, but proved a sterner test by presenting a stiffer gradient. Nothing too severe, but plenty enough to wake up the heart and lungs. From the descent onwards there was rarely a flat mile; gentle undulations, stiff little testers and four more significant 100m ish climbs to come. At the top of climbs one and two, I took sustenance as well as water, thinking the energy would metabolise by the time I needed it on the next climb.

Ruapehu in the distance​

The landscape changed with each turn and over each climb. I couldn't figure the geology which brought into being the dense clustering of so many conical peaks. The underlying rock seemed to be sedimentary, a mix of soft mudstone and shales, as evidenced by the numerous rock slides where the road cut closely to the gorge sides. Despite the volcanic history of the region, I couldn't resolve this multitude of mini peaks as having those origins.

Not sure who was scared of whom, but at least it provided (more than!) a few moments respite.

​

It was not long after the descent into the Tangarakau Gorge that the 12km gravel stretch I knew was to come began. It served to remind me why I'd taken the decision to avoid gravel roads, apart from this unavoidable stretch. The washboard surface was brutally uncomfortable and made for extremely slow going. I was just grateful that most of the stretch was downhill; I often even had to pedal to make way whilst descending. Nor was it any fun continually trying to pick the best path, rather than being able to take in the almost tropical surroundings.

Drawing near to where I thought the end should be, as I rounded a bend there was another touring cyclist taking a photo. Matt and I chatted for a while and since we were both headed for the same destination, we continued together. A much more experienced tourist than me, Matt proved to be good company and although I suspect he was in much better shape than me we rode alongside one another, which I found a welcome distraction from the demands of the subsequent climbs. Unfortunately, that proved a problem.

Towards the summit of the next climb we encountered the Motu Tunnel, or 'Hobbit Hole,' making more from the LoTR theme than it perhaps merits. At this point I should have taken on a fuel topup as well as water, but we were distracted by chatting with a Kiwi couple in their camper.

It was on the next climb that things went awry. Matt wisely climbed at his own pace, slightly faster than mine. I made no attempt to keep up, but worried that he would be waiting for me at the summit, I pushed on rather than taking the break I needed. I was well beat by the time I reached Matt and began to feel light-headed. The next thing I knew Matt was helping extricate me from the prone bike and get me seated. I'd keeled over, doubtless from an energy deficiency. Despite the butties I'd had earlier, a testing day like this would have been eased by a cafe stop or two, but there's nothing like that on this road. Its remoteness is part of its allure. After a banana, some Gummy Bears and a drink, I picked up and was feeling much better. Fortunately the remaining miles were generally down hill and when the sign for Whangamamona hove into view I was more than relieved.

Behind the sign you might just make out a railway line in the valley. No trains, but you can take railcart tours which cross all the way from Taramunui to Stratford.

Perhaps partly due to its remoteness from other centres of civilisation, or the independence of the resident community, but following regional border changes in 1989 it declared itself an independent republic. Should you wish, the local pub will stamp your passport ... for a small fee which contributes to local community ventures. Matt and I found our way to the rather rustic campsite, followed the instructions to pitch our tents and to expect the site manager, Richard, to drop by later. Run by and on behalf of the local community, the site is certainly … distinct! Its buildings have all been repurposed from what used to serve as the village school. The shower room was perhaps once a barn, the dining hall and kitchen previously the school hall. But the site was flat, green and mostly quiet.

Although Matt didn't fancy it, I headed off to the pub/hotel for a meal. Whangaburger and chips were adequate and filled a corner, but I perhaps chose badly from the limited menu. The Whanga Pale Ale was cold and expensive, but nevertheless hit the spot; the first beer I've had in NZ. I walked back to the site in the dark, hit the sack and despite my travails, had loved the variety of scenery and landscapes experienced on my first day on the FWH.

[If you would like to leave a comment, make an observation or ask a question, please feel free to do so … on any post] ​

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 19: Whangamamona - Stratford (40 miles, 2789 feet of ascent)

During my night time comfort amble, it was clear there would be a heavy dew, although how heavy was not apparent at this stage. A few hours later, peeling back the tent door - after the site cockerel refused to let me lie in - revealed a heavy fog … and of course a very wet tent!

I rose, made breakfast and took my time packing while Matt gathered himself and chattels. We decided to continue together, route options being limited, at least as far as Stratford, some 40 miles distant. I had in mind to review my state, see how I felt, and stay in Stratford rather than continue to Hawera as per my plans. With another 2500 feet of ascent in that 38 miles, that's indeed how it panned out. By the time we rolled out the campsite, the sun had finally broken through, although too late to have had any effect on a soaked tent.

The first climb of the day came almost immediately, but was gentle, traversed numerous hairpins, and continually took you in and out of most welcome shade. The foliage was lush and green, more like a jungle than one might expect based on the recent extended spate of dry weather. It was actually perhaps the most enjoyable climb I’ve had so far; the pedals turned fairly easily and just kept on turning.

You might just make out a tiny sliver of road in the centre of the image

Pohukura saddle

Not sure what this helicopter was doing out in the boondocks​

There may have been fewer long, extended climbs today, but there was still an abundance of testers. Each one seemed to offer new views, but the best was reserved for my first sighting in the distance of Mount Taranaki, a classic cone-shaped volcano which dominates the surroundings for miles. Each new summit seemed to offer better views, but their cumulative effect was beginning to take its toll. By the time we were within a few miles of Stratford my mind was made up; I'd be stopping there.

Our first stop in Stratford was a supermarket. Matt needed provisions for his onward journey - he was aiming for New Plymouth on the coast by the end of the day. I just needed something to eat! Matt joined me as far as the local campground before our ways parted and he headed off northwards with Auckland as his final destination, whereas my route lay in the opposite direction. We shared similar outlooks and opinions, more than a laugh or two and (at least on my part) enjoyed one another's company. On another level I found it tough trying to work to someone else's pace, as I'm sure Matt did to mine. Perhaps these brief relationships are best when they are just that - brief.

After Matt departed, my routine returned. Pitch tent, revisit supermarket for evening meal, shower, launder, enjoy meal, write journal … and catch up on last night's; there had been no connectivity of any form. In the morning I would need to visit the i-site to find out what camping options there are between here and Whanganui.

[If you would like to leave a comment, make an observation or ask a question, please feel free to do so … on any post] ​

 

[jay clock]

Ian, I'm loving it. But just put up with the wet tent if the weather is nice for the rest of the day. You can always dry at lunch, if not, it will dry in seconds in the evening!