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More DIY advice... moving a plug socket
- Thread starter MontyVeda
- Start date
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wait4me
Veteran
- Location
- Lincolnshire
Monteyv
Assuming the pic of the waterproof box with chocolate block is the cable from the socket. Basically you will be fine with some small changes...that box is fine but OTT a normal J box will be OK. Don't fit it as you say as all connections should be accessible. I would suggest fixing it to the side of the nearest kitchen unit in apposition behind the kick plate this will lift it from the floor in case of water spillage and it would be accessible in the future (no connection is above developing a fault). Hope you can follow this OK and good luck (I was a sparks from 17 year old but now retired)
Assuming the pic of the waterproof box with chocolate block is the cable from the socket. Basically you will be fine with some small changes...that box is fine but OTT a normal J box will be OK. Don't fit it as you say as all connections should be accessible. I would suggest fixing it to the side of the nearest kitchen unit in apposition behind the kick plate this will lift it from the floor in case of water spillage and it would be accessible in the future (no connection is above developing a fault). Hope you can follow this OK and good luck (I was a sparks from 17 year old but now retired)
- Location
- Egham
It was rather related to load, to determine cable suitability and so forth.he is going to plug the cooker into it obviously
Extension/modification to an existing circuit, so no need IIRC.
wait4me
Veteran
- Location
- Lincolnshire
In theory he is replacing NOT fitting new. Under Part P he is OK. Following updates to part P
U
User6179
Guest
Don't worry the rest of the electrics will not even be close to meeting the Regs
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User6179
Guest
It was rather related to load, to determine cable suitability and so forth.
I was joking
Extension/modification to an existing circuit, so no need IIRC.
wait4me
Veteran
- Location
- Lincolnshire
FFS Electricians who are not house bashers have nothing but contempt for part p. There are nor were any accident fatality figures to confirm its need. How it is meant to work means that a qualified Sparks who doesn't have part P can't do the most basic elec. job in his own house in some areas. eg in stead we get the local contractor to send an apprentice round to fit a new light in the kitchen.
This job that Montyveda wants to do isn't rocket science---just do it!
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User6179
Guest
I agree!, the spark I know was happy for me to do the work and he checked it then signed the electrical certificate , nearly all the contractors I know use non sparks on first fix on new build homes.
- Location
- Egham
Part P, that's the money making scheme isn't it? 
I'm commercial so no need, but it does rile me that I can work on industrial systems and not rewire a house..
I'm commercial so no need, but it does rile me that I can work on industrial systems and not rewire a house..
U
User6179
Guest
Can you not do it as long as a spark signs it off?Part P, that's the money making scheme isn't it?
wait4me
Veteran
- Location
- Lincolnshire
That would work, But you try and find an elec. who will do it. If you find one get your lottery ticket then same day. Then there is the problem of the 17th edition of the "Regs" and being conversant with them.
- Location
- Egham
What he said...
I did hear rumours of it being scrapped about a year ago, but it's since gone rather quiet.
wait4me
Veteran
- Location
- Lincolnshire
There have been a few mods...eg you can now replace things in kitchens and bathrooms but still not install extras similarly for outside the main property.
OP
OP
MontyVeda
a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
- Location
- Lancaster... the little city.
Cheers for all your replies guys...
... there's just the single grey cable going in to the socket box (shown in the picture), so it's that I'm extending with about a metre of cable, a 30amp terminal block to connect the old and new cable, and the waterproof box to house the connection.
The open box in the picture is not live, just a loose metre of cable attached the terminal block ready and waiting to be 'inserted'.
maybe this shows what i'm planning better...
Yes the waterproof box is OTT... but dad had one knocking about so I may as well use it.
I can cut a hatch in the back of the unit to make the box accessible for inspection... I've done the same with the gas fitting for the oven behind another unit.
it's a gas cooker and hob, so the socket will be used mainly for one under-the-wall-unit light, and not much else... maybe a toaster once in a while, a hand blender twice a year... maybe a router (of the wood cutting variety), power drill, sander, scroll saw... possibly a mortising machine one day... my kitchen is also my shed... and my laundrette
... there's just the single grey cable going in to the socket box (shown in the picture), so it's that I'm extending with about a metre of cable, a 30amp terminal block to connect the old and new cable, and the waterproof box to house the connection.
The open box in the picture is not live, just a loose metre of cable attached the terminal block ready and waiting to be 'inserted'.
maybe this shows what i'm planning better...
Yes the waterproof box is OTT... but dad had one knocking about so I may as well use it.
I can cut a hatch in the back of the unit to make the box accessible for inspection... I've done the same with the gas fitting for the oven behind another unit.
it's a gas cooker and hob, so the socket will be used mainly for one under-the-wall-unit light, and not much else... maybe a toaster once in a while, a hand blender twice a year... maybe a router (of the wood cutting variety), power drill, sander, scroll saw... possibly a mortising machine one day... my kitchen is also my shed... and my laundrette
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