Mudguard clearance at chainstay

[Velochris]

I am experimenting with large tyres and swapped from 27mm tyres (actual width when fitted 27.5mm to 28mm tyres (different brand and 29.5mm when fitted).

It is a rim brake bike but has excellent clearance everywhere except the chainstay bridge.

Between the tyre and the dome head bolt which secures the mudguard at the chainstay bridge there is just over 3mm clearance (having been about 6mm before).

It will mean I have to deflate the tyre to remove the wheel but that is fine.

Any thoughts on 3mm clearance there?

 

[wafter]

I think this is often where things get tightest; my Fuji requires a bit of a shove on the inflated tyre to get the wheel out of the droputs.

The tyre situation's not ideal but if you're happy to deflate it to get the wheel off then obviously not an issue. Unless you're using it in particularly muddy conditions I'd not consider the clearance a problem

 

[Velochris]

I think this is often where things get tightest; my Fuji requires a bit of a shove on the inflated tyre to get the wheel out of the droputs.

The tyre situation's not ideal but if you're happy to deflate it to get the wheel off then obviously not an issue. Unless you're using it in particularly muddy conditions I'd not consider the clearance a problem

Road only and I generally do a quick clean and wipe down after every ride.

My thoughts were that in my experience that point does not tend to get too built up with dirt and is less prone to any flex/movement in the guard.

 

[Jenkins]

Unless you're likely to be riding in muddy conditions (and your latest post indicates you're not) it shouldn't be a problem. I've got SKS raceblades on one bike with perhaps 2mm clearance between the brake bridge clip and the top of the tyre and there's no build up of any road dirt in general conditions.

 

[si_c]

Should be fine most of the time, the only problem you are likely to have is getting small stones or gravel stuck between the mudguard and the tyre, particularly if it's wet and muddy about. Keep the gap clear and you should be fine.

 

[youngoldbloke]

I used to have a 'Blue Ribble' - their classic winter bike, which was noted for it's lack of clearance for guards even with 23 mm tyres. On anything but the cleanest of winter country roads the guards clogged up with mud and muck within yards. On winter rides I carried a teaspoon with me which I had found after much research was the perfect tool for removing blockages without removing a wheel.

 

[wafter]

Road only and I generally do a quick clean and wipe down after every ride.

My thoughts were that in my experience that point does not tend to get too built up with dirt and is less prone to any flex/movement in the guard.

Cool - next time I'm in the vicinity of my Fuji I'll take a quick look to gauge how much I'm running (with no issue) - suspect it'll be more than 3mm however..

 

[Velochris]

I used to have a 'Blue Ribble' - their classic winter bike, which was noted for it's lack of clearance for guards even with 23 mm tyres. On anything but the cleanest of winter country roads the guards clogged up with mud and muck within yards. On winter rides I carried a teaspoon with me which I had found after much research was the perfect tool for removing blockages without removing a wheel.

Had one of them myself 20 years ago or so. For me it always blocked around the clasp that attached to the brake.

I don't miss that bike. It served a (cheap) purpose, though I still see a fair few knocking around locally.

 

[Sallar55]

Lack of clearance down at the BB with wider tyres has resulted in bikes lying in the shed or skipped. Bikes that take mudguards only if using 23mm tyres are almost worthless now. Same goes for the likes of Di 2 bikes with brake calipers as they were lucky if able to fit mudguards and 28mm tyres. The advantage of disc is wider/bigger tyres >comfort and being able to ride thro a pothole if not given space to ride round it.

 

[Velochris]

Lack of clearance down at the BB with wider tyres has resulted in bikes lying in the shed or skipped. Bikes that take mudguards only if using 23mm tyres are almost worthless now. Same goes for the likes of Di 2 bikes with brake calipers as they were lucky if able to fit mudguards and 28mm tyres. The advantage of disc is wider/bigger tyres >comfort and being able to ride thro a pothole if not given space to ride round it.

Agree with how things have changed.

However, it is not the width itself which is the problem. The clearance between tyre and chainstay is ample in my case, and the clearance for the guard under the caliper is also pretty good.

I understand why a tyre that is too wide is a problem when hitting a pothole given the lower down the tyre the greater I presume the dispersion of the tyre would be when hitting a pothole.

I am though wondering how much effect a pothole has on the height (increase) of the tyre at the specific location and if 3mm is adequate.

 

[cougie uk]

I used to have a 'Blue Ribble' - their classic winter bike, which was noted for it's lack of clearance for guards even with 23 mm tyres. On anything but the cleanest of winter country roads the guards clogged up with mud and muck within yards. On winter rides I carried a teaspoon with me which I had found after much research was the perfect tool for removing blockages without removing a wheel.

They must have cleared up with those. Surprised they didn't re invent it with a Blue Ribble Disc Winter bike more recently.

 

[youngoldbloke]

Had one of them myself 20 years ago or so. For me it always blocked around the clasp that attached to the brake.

I don't miss that bike. It served a (cheap) purpose, though I still see a fair few knocking around locally.

I removed the clasp and 'sprung' the guard by adjusting the mudguard stays so that the guard was pushed up against the brake bridge, with a thin felt pad been the guard and bridge to stop rattling. It worked surprisingly well, and might be worth trying on any bike with tight clearance at that point.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I removed the clasp and 'sprung' the guard by adjusting the mudguard stays so that the guard was pushed up against the brake bridge, with a thin felt pad been the guard and bridge to stop rattling. It worked surprisingly well, and might be worth trying on any bike with tight clearance at that point.

In the same boat. Running 4000 28s which come up as 29mm. With SKS chromoplastics, had misfortune to have one of those plastic seatstay bridge clasps which wear away with vibration; and removed it. Keeping the stays tight and secure from rotating (at the dropout braze-ons) keeps the line of the guard up close to the bridge and a farthing sized piece of inner tube (double thickness) glued to the underside of the bridge has stopped the rattling initially experienced and keeps it clear of the calipers too.
I have a replacement clasp (alloy this time) but its use would drop the guard to very close to the tyre so am reluctant to install, if the guard functions without.