My little white dove - possible coventry eagle

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mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
I'm probably preaching to the clergy but if they're steel rims, you'll need compatible brake pads to get half decent braking and you may need to beware the drop on some modern brakes.
 
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Tony Raynor

Tony Raynor

Need for steeds
They are alloy wheels. Might try replacing the pads first just in case they have hardened up. They looked pretty new but I'm guessing from talking to the previous owner they may be over a year old without use.
 

biggs682

Itching to get back on my bike's
Location
Northamptonshire
I'd be a bit wary of drilling the rear brake out but there is an easier solution, just use a front brake on the rear and the longer bolt will accept a normal Nylock nut or 2 nuts locked together (the only difference between a front and rear caliper is bolt length)
you can use a rr caliper on the front as well normal locknut on inside of fork instead of rear face it works and even Sheldon approves
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
you can use a rr caliper on the front as well normal locknut on inside of fork instead of rear face it works and even Sheldon approves
I've never struggled to drill the rear of a fork but some (tubular) rear brake bridges are too narrow to drill and the bolt then tends to protrude too much into the allen key on the sleeve nut.
(just done it on my 'project' Raleigh 'courier' city bike frame as I've changed from 26x13/8 chrome rims to 700c and I've got a pair of Weinmann type 500 that will fit hanging up in the shed, no need to worry about the rear bridge as it is a flat plate that also has 2 holes for an 'old style' sprung rack)
 
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