My new trike.

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
....the twitchy steering, or shimmy as it's often called, can happen on some trike designs, and not others. It's a bit of a mystery as to what causes it, but the cure seems to be adding in some stiction to the steering, as is the case here with the ICE shown above. Both my home built tadpoles have had shimmy, and on my mk2 I added some rubber washers to the ball joints and reduced the shimmy so it's no longer an issue. I also live in a flat area, so no chance of breaking any speed records, typical jaunt maybe 12mph average............


It was a problem with Catrike Expeditions who replaced the headset upper bearings with a Teflon bushing, but it can be a function as to the relative position of the wheels. Some trikes like them parallel, some slightly in at the front (toe-in) and other slightly out. It can also be different tyre pressures.

It is a case of knowing your trike, how to set it up best for you and riding within its limits
 
My ICE Sprint starts to shimmy once the headset bearings become worn and develop what feels like a flat spot.
Once this happens it also feels like it hunts for a line around a corner.
As this normally happens while I'm on tour after I've filled them full of sand/grinding paste.
I've found that slacking off the pressure/preload on the bearing so they turn easier helps a lot with the handling at this point until I can replace the bearings.
At the moment I'm just short of 6k miles into this year's tour and they are getting to that stage ..... :biggrin:
 

BlackPanther

Hyper-Fast Recumbent Riding Member.
Location
Doncaster.
Welcome to the club. I have an ICE adventure 26. I ditched the handbrake in preference to having a rear brake for a downhill right hand turn I have to do frequently (every time I go home) and now just use an elastic cord to hold the brakes on as a 'handbrake'.

Can't wait for your pictures!

I used a 1 inch wide piece of old innertube. Works perfectly, is unfeelable when ridding, and almost invisible.
 
I used a "velcro cinch strap" and suggested it to Catrike who now make their own branded version


?u=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.nitrosell.com%2Fproduct_images%2F16%2F3992%2Flarge-cat_brakestrap.jpg


The other method is to use a rear brake (disc, calliper or whatever fits your machine), then use a friction gear lever to tighten the cable and apply the parking brake

Easily mountable and does not require adaptation of the standard brake fittings.

UMB-SHIFTER-SET-LEFT-RIGHT-%2F00%2Fs%2FMTE5OFgxNjAw%2F%24(KGrHqR%2C!iYE-Yvo23ugBPoDRz1CIQ~~60_35.JPG
 
I used a 1 inch wide piece of old innertube. Works perfectly, is unfeelable when ridding, and almost invisible.
I already had something from my touring bikes, so just moved then over. They literally are just some shock cord with a toggle on them. Made them up specifically for the touring bikes some 5 years ago and they are still going strong.
It seemed obvious just to move them over really.
 
Top Bottom