Mystery '80s Raleigh, what do we think this is?

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wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
Since I've got so many more important things to do, tonight has largely been spent browsing ebay for projects :whistle:

The pipe dream plan is to refurb an '80s / 90s mid-range steel Raleigh road bike and fit modern components. The brief is for something decent but with expendible originality.

I've already learnt a bit about how to distinguish better bikes from entry-level jobs (frame material, groupsets, rear break bridge format, presence of adjustable dropouts, wheel material, no. speeds to an extent) and have come across this on ebay which looked promising and a bit of a challenge:

s-l1600.jpg


No real danger of buying it as I don't have the space or really the money, but as an exercise what do people reckon lurks under the paint (model, steel spec etc)? Looks like a half-decent model with decent components (assuming original) adjustable rear dropouts, tubular brake bridge.. 7-speed too so less bending required to get a modern wheel in there.

I see the fork doesn't have a separate crown and is fatter with less curvature so I'm guessing that pegs is as fairly late '80s; possibly even early '90s given it's 7 speeed too..?

Any more pointers as to how to identify higher-quality Raleigh frames would be welcome too :smile:
 

carpenter

Über Member
Location
suffolk
Have a look at/ask for the serial number, if it starts with a "W" then Worksop build.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
It's around early 90's - I'd have to see more picture definition on the fork crown. I have/had the aero fork crowns, but later in the 90's there were builds with the fork blades rounded at the top - can't tell from the photo as it's to washed out. It has the guard braize on so might be the tourer models - Record Ace ? I had a 1986 Road Ace 531c
 
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wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
It's around early 90's - I'd have to see more picture definition on the fork crown. I have/had the aero fork crowns, but later in the 90's there were builds with the fork blades rounded at the top - can't tell from the photo as it's to washed out. It has the guard braize on so might be the tourer models - Record Ace ? I had a 1986 Road Ace 531c
Thanks - I've since learned that the fabricated rounded / bent crown-less fork you describe is referred to as "unicrown" and is what's fitted to this :smile:

I've done some homework and the closest I can find is the Elan, like this, this and this - everything seems to match with the possible exception of the forks maybe being a bit fatter on the mystery bike..? It's possible it could also be a similar model, although I think by the late '80s the lineup possibly didn't have as many models as it once did.

The Elan soeems to have been made in around '89-92 and looks to be a low-mid range model in 501 with an 18-23 fork. In itself might be worth a punt as a project (although tbh I'd prefer a more traditional-looking crowned fork) but I think £80's a bit steep as original once seem to be going on ebay typically for £50-130..

I feel like I've learnt something if nowt else :smile:
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
Since I've got so many more important things to do, tonight has largely been spent browsing ebay for projects :whistle:

The pipe dream plan is to refurb an '80s / 90s mid-range steel Raleigh road bike and fit modern components. The brief is for something decent but with expendible originality.

I've already learnt a bit about how to distinguish better bikes from entry-level jobs (frame material, groupsets, rear break bridge format, presence of adjustable dropouts, wheel material, no. speeds to an extent) and have come across this on ebay which looked promising and a bit of a challenge:

View attachment 546308

No real danger of buying it as I don't have the space or really the money, but as an exercise what do people reckon lurks under the paint (model, steel spec etc)? Looks like a half-decent model with decent components (assuming original) adjustable rear dropouts, tubular brake bridge.. 7-speed too so less bending required to get a modern wheel in there.

I see the fork doesn't have a separate crown and is fatter with less curvature so I'm guessing that pegs is as fairly late '80s; possibly even early '90s given it's 7 speeed too..?

Any more pointers as to how to identify higher-quality Raleigh frames would be welcome too :smile:

That amateur bodge repaint job could be hiding all sorts of trouble underneath.
 
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OP
wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
I’d say that’s perfect for what you’re after, probably a 501 frame but cheap for £80, the Exage groupset is worth that alone.
Thanks - that's good to know although as above (assuming I've got the model right) I'm not sure those sold on ebay suggest it's a great price, given its condition and the mystery factor.I think I'll let this one pass anyway as I'm still learning exactly what I want (this in itself it quite fun and rewarding) while the project is really an aesthetic-led self indulgence so I'd prefer something with a crowned fork :smile:

That amateur bodge repaint job could be hiding all sorts of trouble underneath.
Thanks - this of course is very true although it looks very badly prepped so I'd hope that any dings or corrosion would be obvious having not been properly attended to..

I would steer clear of repaints , patina with old decals is better in my mind .
Ta - were I leaving it alone I'd agree entirely; however I'd really like to have the frame refinished in a non-standard colour with no decals (but head badge retained) so would prefer not to be killing an otherwise original one. No moral dilemma if someone's already done it for me :laugh:

I can appreciate the argument for an original frame and am open to the idea in principal but I'm not keen on a lot of the original paint jobs tbh; especially those from the time period that would yield the most suitable frames.


I'm really enjoying learning all this stuff as it feels like I'm narrowing down a shortlist of suitable frames. I have a load of Raleigh catalogues from the late '80s / early '90s and I reckon the Elan was probably one of the "top end" standard / non special-products division.. and spending more would get you a 531-framed "lightweight" with a crowned fork and a few other nice bits (as illustrated in this 1990 catalogue) like the Volante ("race" geometry with 531 forks), Veloce ("training" geometry with 531 forks). and Vitesse ("training" geometry with chro-mo forks; although it seems this model cheapened with welded / unlugged chro-mo frames and unicrown forks from 1991).

It seems the difference between "race" and "training" (what I guess would now be called "endurance" geometry) is that (for the 57cm frame) the latter has 3mm more fork offset (44 v 41mm), 10mm longer chainstays (415 v 405mm) and bizarrely 5mm more on the distance between the front dropout and BB (600 v. 595mm) which seems like and odd dim and arguably impossible given that the top tube length and headtube / seattube angles are thes same (assuming the top tube is horizontal on both). Never mind; bit to much detail for now anyway.

These models are at the entry point to the SPD bikes, the upper end dominated by the bonded-frame Dynatech range which holds little interest for me. It also seems that these appear to be the last of the brazed / lugged frames produced by Raleigh, with higher-end models continuing with bonded construction and later lower-end ones becoming welded.

A quick browse of ebay suggests earlier lugged 531 psychedelic Vitesses can be had for maybe £100-150 and later welded chro-mo ones for typically £60-80 (and one for £15!) although these hold little interest tbh.

I also spotted this Vitesse - which is a later one with a lot of nice components on it (essentially what I'm aiming at with a better base-frame and less busy aesthetics!). Despite the frilly bits I think the price is extremely optimistic though considering what the base bikes go for!

s-l1600.jpg


The only Veloce sold on ebay recently was a tatty-ish 60cm job that went for £80, while there's a nicer example currently up for £65 with 3 days left.

There's a "refurbed" Volante on there that's not sold for ages at an asking price of £200 and the only one that's sold recently went for £90, so it seems that there's not a lot in it price-wise between these models, so choice will come down to locality, condition and favoured geometry.

Heartingly it looks like (just as I was told!) I should be able to get an ideal candidate for well under a ton; but I guess this will ultimately be a minimal part of the overall cost factoring in £400ish for a groupset, probably £200ish for rims, a good few quid for refinishing and all the other bits required..


As an aside looking at the 1988 catalogue the lightweight lineup is totally different; with the model range made up of the Record Ace Moderne, Competition, Corsa, Road Ace Select, Ritmo, Triathon (with its lovely yellowy-cream paint at gloriously '80s decals) and Quadra. All of these will be investigated for suitablity and added to the list as appropriate. Sadly I don't have a 1989 catalogue or anything from 1991 SPD onwards.


So in summary it looks like I'm after a 531-framed SPD / Lightweight bike from probably about '87 / '88 onwards, preferably a cheap, cosmetically tatty but intact one so I don't feel guilty for drilling the frame and bridges to take modern brakes (assuming this is still necessary on these later bikes; looks like it might not be as many appear to have dual-pivot calipers), re-setting the rear dropouts and getting it resprayed.

Space and finance dictate that I'm in no hurry to get this project underway and for now I'll content myself with knocking up a spreadsheet of all pertiant information - thanks for everyone's help so far :smile:
 
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carpenter

Über Member
Location
suffolk
Ta - were I leaving it alone I'd agree entirely; however I'd really like to have the frame refinished in a non-standard colour with no decals (but head badge retained) so would prefer not to be killing an otherwise original one. No moral dilemma if someone's already done it for me :laugh:

I agree - I have had several frames repainted/powder coated (I prefer powder coat on non fancy lugs), each of the frames have been so badly finished that I had no compunction about getting the job done.


So in summary it looks like I'm after a 531-framed SPD / Lightweight bike from probably about '87 / '88 onwards, preferably a cheap, cosmetically tatty but intact one so I don't feel guilty or drilling the frame and bridges to take modern brakes (assuming this is still necessary on these later bikes; looks like it might not be as many appear to have dual-pivot calipers), re-setting the rear dropouts and getting it resprayed.

Space and finance dictate that I'm in no hurry to get this project underway and for now I'll content myself with knocking up a spreadsheet of all pertiant information - thanks for everyone's help so far :smile:

Don't bother drilling, these work beautifully :

https://road.cc/content/review/51312-spa-cycles-allen-key-nut-conversion-bolt

By the way what about this (not Raleigh though):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Williams...849811?hash=item34305f46d3:g:R5sAAOSw7j5fV8BO

Or this (Galaxy is nice:smile:):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dawes-Ga...911762?hash=item46b48df092:g:RbkAAOSw8Ehe7697
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
My early 80's Road Ace was built with 'sleeve nut' mounted brakes, only single pivot (Weinmann 500) but the same mounting as modern brakes' However don't dismiss the hi Tensile frames, I've got a couple and the ride is superb OK they're a little bit heftier but not much and the only snag is they tended to come with less expensive components but if you're fitting more modern kit then that's not an issue.

Also the drilling out for fitting modern brakes is a doddle, you need to drill the back of the fork to 8mm (note only the BACK of the fork) and as for the rear brake bridge you don't need to touch it, what you do is use a front Caliper on the rear as the only difference is a slightly longer mounting bolt. The longer bolt will protrude through the brake bridge far enough to get a normal nut (or a Nylock one) on with plenty of threads (in fact my first post on Cyclechat was about doing this on a Raleigh and gave rise to my username)
126 rear spacing will go to 130 easy peasy in fact you can normally 'spring' a 130 wheel in with no problem.
 
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wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
Thanks - I did wonder if anyone had done a conversion such as that you link to (wasn't sure how the studs are fixed into the calipers) and as usual the innovative bike industry hasn't disappointed!

Ta for the other frame suggestions too; I'm certainly not averse to other sources besides Raleigh, however these seem the most common and I want to be familiar with what I'm (potentially) buying in an effort to avoid all the pitfalls already discussed; so some more research would be required into these marques :smile:

My early 80's Road Ace was built with 'sleeve nut' mounted brakes, only single pivot (Weinmann 500) but the same mounting as modern brakes' However don't dismiss the hi Tensile frames, I've got a couple and the ride is superb OK they're a little bit heftier but not much and the only snag is they tended to come with less expensive components but if you're fitting more modern kit then that's not an issue.

Also the drilling out for fitting modern brakes is a doddle, you need to drill the back of the fork to 8mm (note only the BACK of the fork) and as for the rear brake bridge you don't need to touch it, what you do is use a front Caliper on the rear as the only difference is a slightly longer mounting bolt. The longer bolt will protrude through the brake bridge far enough to get a normal nut (or a Nylock one) on with plenty of threads (in fact my first post on Cyclechat was about doing this on a Raleigh and gave rise to my username)
126 rear spacing will go to 130 easy peasy in fact you can normally 'spring' a 130 wheel in with no problem.
Thanks - that's reassuring about the Road Ace; seems as usual this tech was bled in from the top and having looked at what was available (as best as I can tell) there seem to be a good selection of higher-end bikes with these fixings throughout the '80s.

I appreciate your thoughts about the frame but considering its potentially such a small part of the overall build cost it seems pointless to go for a cheaper, heavier item for the sake of saving very little in the grand scheme. Also I suspect it'd be harder to get the specs I wanted (such as the recessed nut brake mounts on a lower-spec frame. The bike would be an indulgence and being constructed from "iconic" tubes would improve its appeal to me, rightly or wrongly. Plus I'm half-considering it as a replacement for my current CFRP road bike and a comparable mass would make this an easier sell!

Thanks for the tips on mounting to older-spec frames but tbh I'd rather just avoid all the complications and get a frame with current-spec mounts from the off :smile:

If I happen to retain the original paint I'll consider "springing" the dropouts, although I like things to be right and hate man-handling rear wheels in at the best of times, without having to prize the dropouts apart so if getting a frame re-finished I'll definitely get the rear cold-set at the same time.
 

carpenter

Über Member
Location
suffolk
What size and rough price?

by the way; Dawes, Carlton, Falcon, etc all made lovely frames (depending on model) - possible worthwhile thread "which frames do you rate and why" could be interesting ^_^
 
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wafter

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
What size and rough price?

by the way; Dawes, Carlton, Falcon, etc all made lovely frames (depending on model) - possible worthwhile thread "which frames do you rate and why" could be interesting ^_^
Probably 57cm (give or take on specific geometry) and ideally no more than a ton for the complete bike or frameset. Tbh for the moment I'm happy to just sit on my hands and learn by observation of what comes up. Many reasons why I can't do any more currently so won't be buying unless I find an absolute steal :smile:
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
If I happen to retain the original paint I'll consider "springing" the dropouts, although I like things to be right and hate man-handling rear wheels in at the best of times, without having to prize the dropouts apart so if getting a frame re-finished I'll definitely get the rear cold-set at the same time.
What has happened with mine is after riding it for a bit with a 130mm rear hubbed wheel is that it has 'cold set' itself although I did have the dropout aligned which may have 'tweaked' the rear stays a bit on the drive side. All I know is the wheel drops in no problem now.
 
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