N+1

[brokenbetty]

too much red wine + ebay watch list =

I've just picked her up and rode a mile or so back from the station. She's completely roadworthy other than needing the rear brake adjusted, and as long as I remember not to go faster than stirrup brakes will stop

I don't know if I really have room to keep her but she'll be with me til April for the Tweed Ride at least

She's lovely

 

[tyred]

Lovely, and very nice to ride once you learn to allow adequate stopping distances.

Swap out the rear sprocket for a 22 tooth if it hasn't already been done. With the right gearing, these type of things are suprisingly effortless to ride so long as you don't try and go really fast.

 

[dan_bo]

Lovely. I had one like that years ago and it was a joy to ride. I strongly agree with the comments about the brakes though- that's the reason I don't have said bike anymore and a completely different story........

 

[Arch]

Very nice!

I wonder how easy it would be to upgrade the brakes as inconspicuously as possible - hub brakes berhaps, cable operated, but leave the rods on for the look.

 

[tyred]

Rod operated Sturmey drum brakes do exist, should you want.

The existing brakes should be just about adequate in the dry if set up correctly. Ensure both pads contact the rim at the same time (this is not automatic like on calipers, the stirrups need bending to suit), the rim needs to be true and round as possible (much more imprtant than on caliper brakes, flat spots on the rims cause judder) and also ensure spokes are tight (if not the rim will pull towards you rather than stopping the bike). If you need brake pads, try and track down old stock Dunlop or Raleigh stuff as modern pads seems to be too soft and have a ridiculously short life (in my experience). Also, if buying pads, be aware that Raleigh type and Phillips type are not the same thing.

Also put a drop of oil (use proper oil like engine oil, not WD40) on the stirrups where they slide through the guides on the forks, and work oil into the pivots/levers on the handlebars, and the pivot points for the back brake linkage on the downtube and under the BB shell.

 

[brokenbetty]

*pokes around bike for a while*

Well the hub is 1979 and the rear rim is still shiny and made in Holland. The rest seems to be pretty much exactly as the vendor described - a 1930s Raleigh. It has a JXXXXX serial code stamped on the seat tube which fits, and the only examples I can find on line of the same style and decals are thirties bikes.

I think it's the oldest thing I own apart from my house!

Just need to get that rear rod sorted and hope it doesn't rain too often

 

[brokenbetty]

Tyred, thank you for the advice. I'll spend some time on it properly this weekend. Although I might brake (haha) my DIY rule and get someone with experience to tune up the brakes first time round.

If I do decide to keep it (trans: if my better half will let N=N+1) I might look at a coaster brake rather than drum brakes, then all the current hardware can stay in place. The rear wheel is modern anyway so I won't be breaking up an original part of the bike.

 

[asterix]

Excellent bike!

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

Nice one bb. Have fun with it

 

[Gerry Attrick]

Lovely machine from the golden era of bikes. Enjoy it.

 

[tyred]

Here's a video which explains a little about these brakes and how to adjust them.

 

[brokenbetty]

I sorted the brakes out (to my own satisfaction anyway) on Saturday.

Clearly, it would be reckless to ride an 80-year old bike that's too big for me with dodgy brakes in the London rush hour. But on the other hand, what use is a bike that doesn't get ridden?

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!! What a fantastic ride in the sunshine!

 

[Paulus]

I trust from your post BB that you enjoyed the ride out on the vintage machine, well done. Stay off the claret in future though, it could get expensive.

 

[Baggy]

She's a beauty!

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

She's a beauty!

Betty or the bike?