New Chain Required

[united4ever]

for this bike:

View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/HOY-Shizuoka-Hybrid-Evans-Cycles/dp/B01NBLQQ7N


I don't have any specific tools (except bike stand and alan keys etc)- is it easy to do by myself (bike shop always did it in the past). If so can you recommend which chain i need?

Thanks

 

[Roseland triker]

Standard 9 speed chain.
I would fit a cassette too to avoid snags says 11-34 range. You will need a cassette tool and chain whip.
Also a chain tool.

 

[si_c]

Standard 9 speed chain.
I would fit a cassette too to avoid snags says 11-34 range. You will need a cassette tool and chain whip.
Also a chain tool.

To change the chain you don't need anything other than a chain tool to make sure the chain is the same length. If it has a quick link you can remove it with a zip-tie.

 

[Roseland triker]

To change the chain you don't need anything other than a chain tool to make sure the chain is the same length. If it has a quick link you can remove it with a zip-tie.

Yes but if you bother to read my post you will see I advise to fit a cassette too thus the requirement of suitable tools

 

[vickster]

As above, when were the chain and cassette last changed? How worn are they? What symptoms have led you to determine a new chain is needed?
I pretty much always get both done at the same time (although parts have got more spendy lately)

 

[united4ever]

right, i had the cassette and chain changed last February and since done about 3k miles (but plenty of it in the rain on canal towpath) so just looking to change the chain really so i don't damage the cassette.

It's running ok but noticed a spot of rust on the chain yesterday. I clean, degrease and lube maybe once every couple of months so not meticulous with it.

 

[Roseland triker]

Put a cheap SRAM 9 speed chain on if it was replaced with SRAM last time.
Run it gently and gradually build up power. The chain may rebed in with the old casette....or it may not in which case replace both with new and you won't loose much ruining a new chain trying
Good luck

 

[the snail]

If you don't let the chain get too worn, then you can leave the cassette for another time. Change the chain, and see if it skips on the cassette. If it does, then you have let the chain become too worn, and you'll have to change the cassette.

 

[Roseland triker]

If you don't let the chain get too worn, then you can leave the cassette for another time. Change the chain, and see if it skips on the cassette. If it does, then you have let the chain become too worn, and you'll have to change the cassette.

And buy a new chain on top of the new chain you fitted to the old cassette thinking a new chain would be enough for an old cassette with a new chain yet you need a new chain and cassette

 

[Ajax Bay]

i had the cassette and chain changed last February and since done about 3k miles (but plenty of it in the rain on canal towpath) so just looking to change the chain really so i don't damage the cassette. It's running ok but noticed a spot of rust on the chain yesterday. I clean, degrease and lube maybe once every couple of months so not meticulous with it.

If you just change the chain, it will certainly skate on the most used sprockets (eg 16t), after 5000km. Your current chain is not 'damaging the cassette': they are wearing together. A "spot of rust" can be treated by some oil: frequent regular lubrication is good (search for the @mickle method). If you continue to ride your drivetrain will continue to work fine, for a while. Procure a chain (eg SRAM 951) and a cassette. Then when you get the first skating on the current set up, change both. You will need the tools which @Roseland triker lists in #5 above.

 

[the snail]

And buy a new chain on top of the new chain you fitted to the old cassette thinking a new chain would be enough for an old cassette with a new chain yet you need a new chain and cassette

No, you try it, if it skips, put the cassette on. A worn cassette won't cause wear on a new chain anyway. No point in replacing a perfectly serviceable cassette. I fitted a new chain today, third one on the same cassette, runs just fine.

 

[Roseland triker]

Your contradickthion is as I expected

 

[Ajax Bay]

No, you try it, if it skips, put the cassette on. A worn cassette won't cause wear on a new chain anyway. No point in replacing a perfectly serviceable cassette. I fitted a new chain today, third one on the same cassette, runs just fine.

Tell us how many km your cassette has done and how many km you did on the first chain? I've explained why the OP's is is "a perfectly serviceable cassette" only when operating with its original chain.

 

[Brandane]

right, i had the cassette and chain changed last February and since done about 3k miles (but plenty of it in the rain on canal towpath) so just looking to change the chain really so i don't damage the cassette.

It's running ok but noticed a spot of rust on the chain yesterday. I clean, degrease and lube maybe once every couple of months so not meticulous with it.

Do you really need a new chain then?
Buy a chain measuring tool. Use that to determine whether or not your chain has stretched beyond the recommended limit of wear. If it hasn't, bin all previous advice, keep running on the existing chain and cassette, and save yourself spending money for no good reason!

Link to chain tool.

 

[silva]

it's the chain that is the prime wear inflicting part of the drivetrain, meaning that the wear state of the sprockets catches up fast with the wear state of the chain. The sprockets / chain price ratio is 3:1 meaning the cheap component ruins the expensive ones so replacing the chain slows the overall wear rate and reduces replacement costs the max possible - the price of 3 chains at one end, with the price of 3 sprocket sets at the other end. Example on my fixed gear the chainring and cog date from begin 2019. I let the first chain eat up the sprockets to the point that the chain tensioner reached its end position. I then mounted a new chain, and somewhere later last year another new chain, still on that same chainring and cog. Their teeth became quite short / thin at end chain 1, but they held out 2 subsequent chains with little additional wear.