New Edition - Raleigh Wayfarer

[Kins]

Just got a new edition to the family. An old Raleigh Wayfarer. Local chap rode it for awhile then decided to take it apart to do up but ended up with a box of bits.

So I have everything I think besides the brakes, levers, seat post and saddle.

Everything came apart really easily except the bar post which is seized solid. Looks like someone has tried battering the bars themselves to try and free it and subsequently damaged these which is a shame.

Idea is just to give it a quick wash and brush up and get it on the road. We shall see.

Just have to source the missing/damaged parts now.

 

[Kins]

So far just got the bottom bearing sorted (runs so smooth, I was well chuffed) and put the head tube in to soak. Started to look at the wheels. Back is W. German Schürmann Etrto with a Sturmey Dyno Hub with 4 75 stamped on it. Is that the date?

The back wheel weighs probably as much if not more than a modern bike! Don't know if it works beyond turning as no lights/wiring etc on the bike.

Is it worth messing about with or should I just look for a replacement Sturmey 3 speed hubbed wheel?

Front is a Rigida Superchrome. How do you take the axel out of these? only one side has a nut and the other is a smooth round knob. I can't see any fitting for special tools etc so not sure how you get a grip both sides. Looks like the previous owner has tried mole grips or something similar as quite a few threads flattened.

Also does anyone have a stem, bars, levers and brakes sitting in their parts bin that would suit and they wanna sell?

 

[lpretro1]

You need a set of cone pliers to hold the round knob whilst undoing the other side.

 

[Teuchter]

I love these old Raleighs. I've had a '78 dated Raleigh Transit for a few years now - a really pleasant bike to ride. It was in practically new condition when I bought it and a non folding Twenty from its original owner. It's been abused by me in all weathers (despite the steel rims which are fine except in heavy rain) and still cleans up perfectly with just a weekly wipe over all non braking surfaces with an oily rag.

Watch out when putting it all back together. The adjustable side of your front hub has to go on the left otherwise tightening the axle nut could tighen up the cone and damage the bearings. This and other tips came from Sheldon who has loads of information on this sort of bike:
http://sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html

Edit: forgot to say, I think I've got a spare set of brake calipers and levers in the shed that came off a Triumph Trafficmaster (just the same as those on my Raleigh). I'll check tonight if you're interested.

 

[Kins]

Ye m8, I would be.

I have a new front wheel and new rear rim coming next week as the old ones have two huge flat spots so thought might as well get lighter wheels. Still have to get the steerer out.

Also need to find a locking nut for the rear dyno hub and a few other nuts and washers that are missing. I am sure that some spacers are also missing but because the wheels were off the bike its hard to tell what is missing until its ready to go back together.

 

[Cycleops]

You will probably find that the Sturmey Archer hub is fine and will just need new control cable. Good luck with it.

Teuchter suggestedthe sheldon brown site which has most of the answers, another one to look at is mytenspeeds.com.

 

[Kins]

You will probably find that the Sturmey Archer hub is fine and will just need new control cable. Good luck with it.

Teuchter suggestedthe sheldon brown site which has most of the answers, another one to look at is mytenspeeds.com.

I tend to read sheldon before I start any job, then youtube vids, then crack on with it.

I have already refurbed the Dyno hub through a great youtube vid, seems to work fine. Not sure its putting out enough power though. If its not I'll swap to just a 3 speed hub.

 

[tyred]

The most important point about overhauling a dynohub is to never separate the armature from the magnet, unless you have the correct Sturmey "keeper."

It should put about about 2w of power, a typical bottle dynamo will put out 3w. With the correct wattage bulbs, back and front (1.5w front 0.36w back, not always that easy to find now), it will give a reasonable light, enough to be seen by, not really enough to see with. It will also run just fine with the more usual 2.4w front light and 0.6w tail lamp bulbs meant for other dynamo systems but will never reach full brightness and have a flickery amber headlamp, still should be visible to traffic. If you want to, fit the 2.4W headlamp bulb and remove the tail lamp bulb and use a battery tail lamp. Will give a better headlamp.

One of these hubs in good condition will run a Basta Pilot LED headlamp at full brightness but will flicker something terrible at low speeds due to the low frequency AC produced by these hubs.

 

[Teuchter]

The most important point about overhauling a dynohub is to never separate the armature from the magnet, unless you have the correct Sturmey "keeper."

It should put about about 2w of power, a typical bottle dynamo will put out 3w. With the correct wattage bulbs, back and front (1.5w front 0.36w back, not always that easy to find now), it will give a reasonable light, enough to be seen by, not really enough to see with. It will also run just fine with the more usual 2.4w front light and 0.6w tail lamp bulbs meant for other dynamo systems but will never reach full brightness and have a flickery amber headlamp, still should be visible to traffic. If you want to, fit the 2.4W headlamp bulb and remove the tail lamp bulb and use a battery tail lamp. Will give a better headlamp.

One of these hubs in good condition will run a Basta Pilot LED headlamp at full brightness but will flicker something terrible at low speeds due to the low frequency AC produced by these hubs.

Whenever I read one of your informative posts about various dynamo setups, I always think that I should give one a go sometime, maybe with a bottle dynamo on the old Raleigh (I like the selection of bright LEDs that I use on my usual commuting bikes). I've not used a dynamo for about 25 years but I recall the cheap old bottle dynamo I had on my Puch "racer" worked adequately for me on those dark winter paper rounds as a teenager.

 

[Kins]

The most important point about overhauling a dynohub is to never separate the armature from the magnet, unless you have the correct Sturmey "keeper."

It should put about about 2w of power, a typical bottle dynamo will put out 3w. With the correct wattage bulbs, back and front (1.5w front 0.36w back, not always that easy to find now), it will give a reasonable light, enough to be seen by, not really enough to see with. It will also run just fine with the more usual 2.4w front light and 0.6w tail lamp bulbs meant for other dynamo systems but will never reach full brightness and have a flickery amber headlamp, still should be visible to traffic. If you want to, fit the 2.4W headlamp bulb and remove the tail lamp bulb and use a battery tail lamp. Will give a better headlamp.

One of these hubs in good condition will run a Basta Pilot LED headlamp at full brightness but will flicker something terrible at low speeds due to the low frequency AC produced by these hubs.

Yeah I knew about the magnet due to reading Sheldon before I started. It was probably my test being low speed and not with a bike light. I read an article about just having a front on the dynamo just the other day. I will see whether I win an auction for some old lights first before I think about it any further.

 

[ufkacbln]

My first "real bike" was a Raleigh Wayfarer back in the early 70's superb machine

 

[Drago]

Same here, albeit late 70's was when I had mine. I was a big lad and quickly outgrew Choppers and stuff and my Ma couldn't afford a proper racer. That's how I ended up with my cousins Wayfarer. It was a quick old bike for a 26 inches IIRC.

 

[tyred]

26" x 1 3/8" is a great and overlooked wheel size imo. They roll so much better than the MTB 26" size.

 

[Kins]

New front wheel arrived and re-threaded the Dynohub onto a new rim. Waiting for a few bits off fellow forumites.

Still missing a few bits, and need to source lock nuts for the dyno itself, a bar stem and lock bolt. Other than that I just need to buy new cables and brake pads. I will get a era specific seat and post when one pops up on fleabay.

 

[eck]

Hiya Kins, bars posted this morning, the postage was insignificant so just put a couple of your Welsh Pounds in a charity box. Sorry, I don't have a suitable stem: the bars were the stoker bars on our tandem, and were attached to a HBFO agricultural ahead stem (which you are welcome to as well).