New wheels or new bike?

[2pies]

You most definitely do not need to buy a new bike. New wheels will transform a bike more than you would believe. Frames and wheels are the heart and soul of bikes. The rest is add-on frippery. Do some research, but £2-300 will buy you a decent set, spend more if you can and new wheels combined with (say) £30-40 road tyres and your entire bike will be transformed. Keep the old wheels/tyres combo for tracks and trails (which is what the Tricross was designed for) and the new wheels for the road. You now have two bikes. That being said - buying a cheapo Raleigh replacement wheel was a mistake.

Thanks for the advice.

I was broke and knew what I was buying with the Raleigh wheel - a cheap replacement which is enough for commuting.

 

[PpPete]

The stock wheels on £500-£600 bikes are pretty cr@p IME.
Spend about £300 on a nice set of wheels, + some really nice 23mm tyres. Should be some bargains around on Michelin Pro3 as they are being phased out in favour of Pro4

Wheels - personally I prefer handbuilts but they tend to be 32 spoke rather than the more fashionable 20/24 spoke patterns, although not significantly slower.

 

[cerenko]

Personally I think people get to caught up in the weight game.
I have ridden a gazelle 531 with basic components,wheels, weinmann on weinmann hubs, total weight of the bike was about 22 lbs, I think the wheels alone where 2.5kg and won many a race, my 10 mile tt times are still to be beaten by people on bikes weighing 16 pounds or less, my current bike Scott cr1 weighs 18 .5 pounds and is plenty light enough, wheels weigh 1920 kg Alex race 28 and its fast, the wheels feel great and it climbs like a dream leaving others in my wake, a mix of sora and 105.
Some times it may be better to get some extra training in or may be loose a few pound in weight if possible and leave your money in your pocket ?
To many people get ripped off by advertising and think a lighter bike will make them faster, not the case, no need to spend more than £600 max

 

[HLaB]

Personally I think people get to caught up in the weight game.
I have ridden a gazelle 531 with basic components,wheels, weinmann on weinmann hubs, total weight of the bike was about 22 lbs, I think the wheels alone where 2.5kg and won many a race, my 10 mile tt times are still to be beaten by people on bikes weighing 16 pounds or less, my current bike Scott cr1 weighs 18 .5 pounds and is plenty light enough, wheels weigh 1920 kg Alex race 28 and its fast, the wheels feel great and it climbs like a dream leaving others in my wake, a mix of sora and 105.
Some times it may be better to get some extra training in or may be loose a few pound in weight if possible and leave your money in your pocket ?
To many people get ripped off by advertising and think a lighter bike will make them faster, not the case, no need to spend more than £600 max

I could be wrong but I'm sure I read some where that heavier wheels are better for TT's as once they are rolling they are harder to stop; it certainly sound like they were for you Lighter wheels are more suited to situations where you have to get up to speed/stop faster. Lighter wheels might make you slightly faster in the latter situation but there is definitely a diminishing rate of return and the individual would be better training harder if they want to go faster

 

[2pies]

Personally I think people get to caught up in the weight game.
I have ridden a gazelle 531 with basic components,wheels, weinmann on weinmann hubs, total weight of the bike was about 22 lbs, I think the wheels alone where 2.5kg and won many a race, my 10 mile tt times are still to be beaten by people on bikes weighing 16 pounds or less, my current bike Scott cr1 weighs 18 .5 pounds and is plenty light enough, wheels weigh 1920 kg Alex race 28 and its fast, the wheels feel great and it climbs like a dream leaving others in my wake, a mix of sora and 105.
Some times it may be better to get some extra training in or may be loose a few pound in weight if possible and leave your money in your pocket ?
To many people get ripped off by advertising and think a lighter bike will make them faster, not the case, no need to spend more than £600 max

For the most part I would agree with you. There is no way I could justifty buying a carbon bike - at 37yrs old I just wouldn't get enough out of it. If I were to buy a good bike (£1000 range), it would likely be an alloy frame with good components that are durable and smoother to use like a Shimano 105 groupset.

However I'm not overweight by any means, very much within the healthy zone of a height/weight chart, and I commute over 100 miles a week so I'm fairly bike fit already. My questions were more about improving the wheels (or bike) to reduce the amount of friction from wide tyres and smoother running wheels. I think most people in this thread have confirmed what I thought - getting slightly better quality wheels and thinner tyres will be less of a drag on longer, hilly rides.

Interesting opinion however.

 

[Fletch456]

For the most part I would agree with you. There is no way I could justifty buying a carbon bike - at 37yrs old I just wouldn't get enough out of it. If I were to buy a good bike (£1000 range), it would likely be an alloy frame with good components that are durable and smoother to use like a Shimano 105 groupset.

However I'm not overweight by any means, very much within the healthy zone of a height/weight chart, and I commute over 100 miles a week so I'm fairly bike fit already. My questions were more about improving the wheels (or bike) to reduce the amount of friction from wide tyres and smoother running wheels. I think most people in this thread have confirmed what I thought - getting slightly better quality wheels and thinner tyres will be less of a drag on longer, hilly rides.

Interesting opinion however.

I would first of all agree with those who've said thinner tyres - 32mm (?!) - and you'll quickly see a difference and the wheels. Then getting a bike under the C2W scheme will help get what in effect is a bargain as youre riding with a club now and given the volume of miles you've cycled it's justifiable

However the bigger point I want to make is regarding what you say about a carbon bike "There is no way I could justifty buying a carbon bike - at 37yrs old I just wouldn't get enough out of it." I am 42 and got my first carbon bike earlier this year and I can't praise it enough. It's faster, more comfortable, road smoothing and has changed my cycling. Whilst carbon bikes for less than £1000 are not common I cannot recommend highly enough trying one. Many LBS's will allow you to pay for £1000 in one transaction then the difference in a 2nd so you have a £1000 receipt for C2W; so from that point of view it's doable. If you try one and budget ultimately won't allow then budget won't allow and if you find the change as I big as I did you may hang fire and save. Not all carbon are the same - people talk in shorthand on here (we are all guilty of it) but am sure same holds true for alu bikes too - I tried a Willier and didn't like it (harsher and it is labelled racier) then tried a Trek and smoothed out the road so much compared to my alu I loved it instantly and for first time knew what reviewers mean when they say about the pedal movement quickly translating into forward motion. I didn't think I would know or recognise that but I did right away.

Whilst many people on here are advocate of alu and love their alu bikes, the difference between my alu and carbon is simply huge.