Noisy Wheels Manufacturing BB driving me potty

[Mr. Cow]

I few months back I had my bike serviced. My drive side BB bearing was shot so I had the lbs replace the entire pressfit bb with a wheels manufacturing BB. Similar pressfit setup but the instead of nylon cups they are aluminium and thread together. I liked the look of the wheelsmfg BB as it would allow the bearings being easy to replace without having to smash all the cups out. They also seem to get good write ups and said to be noise free.

So when I got my bike back imagine how disappointed I was when the bike started creaking about 2 minutes in the ride. I ruled out the rear wheel and seat, and tightened the chainring bolts. Not wanting to wait for the lbs to have a look I striped down the crankset and removed the BB. I noted that it seemed to have been installed "dry" apart from a very thin layer of grease on the mating surfaces between the shell and the cups. I also noted the drive/none drive side cups were installed the wrong way round to what the instructions said (although I dont think this makes much difference?).

So I cleaned everything down, applied compatible grease liberally (park tools HP1 grease I think - Alu shell insert and Alu cups), reassembled everything the right way round and tightened up.
The noise disappeared and all was good for about 2 weeks before the noise came back

So I am back to square 1. I am pretty sure it's the bottom bracket. The noise gets worse the longer the ride (something heating up?) What could it be or what else could I try? I am probably going to strip it down and try regressing again this weekend

Thanks

 

[PpPete]

Is it possible the initial problem (before replacement BB) has worn the crank spindle? Is the preload on the cranks correct?

 

[Mr. Cow]

That's a possibility I hadn't thought of. Before I had the new BB fitted the old drive side bearing was very sloppy and there was a bit of lateral play in the cranks and a ticking noise on rotation. Perhaps I let it go too far?

Is there a way to check for worn crank? I don't have a spare to check right now. There is no play currently and I only do the preload up just a bit more than finger tight. On that do I need the wavy washer that's on the NDS? I presume this is what makes the preload work but it's the first time I've noticed it there (ultegra crankset)

Your suggestion has at least given me hope so thanks!

 

[cyberknight]

I dont know your crankset however when my PF 30 was replaced i had no end of trouble and eneded up at another lbs who finally sorted mine as it turned out the non drive crank arm was not tight enough , as i rode the creak got louder and louder until they sorted it