Numb fingers and hydraulic shifters

[AlanW]

I have finally moved into the world of hydraulic brakes, but for whatever reason my fingers are now going numb after just a few miles?

I don't have a problem on any of my other bikes, only this new bike with the hydraulic shifters? I've spent the last few days jiggling around with different positions, changing stems, rotating bars but all to no avail. I rode into work this morning on mu usual everyday hack and noticed that with my conventional Ultegra brakes, and old style/shape bars, I tend to have the palm of my hand on the other edge of the shifters.

With the hydraulic shifters, the body of the shifter is so much wider and also longer to accommodate the hydraulic reservoir, plus the bars also a lot flatter to allow for RHM from the tops to the hoods.

The numbness is pressure related, because I assume that I am putting more on the palm of my hand now that before when my hand tended to sit in "a well" when on the hoods.

The problem is I'm not quite to sure how to resolve it? The drop from top of the saddle to the top of the bars is dramatically reduced from my normal set up, four of my bikes the drop is circa 60mm. I've now reduced it down to half that on this new bike and still it seems that I am putting to much pressure on the palm of my hands? I've also tried a couple different pairs of track mitts with different types of padding and it made no difference.

Plus, as the body of the shifters are 15mm longer than std braked shifters, its trying to find a compromise between riding on the tops of the bars and on the hoods

Or....maybe as its a different riding position I just need to get used to it?

I was wondering if anyone else that had gone to hydraulic discs and has experienced the same problem?

 

[nickr]

I changed from a hybrid with Tektro hydraulic disks to a CX with SRAM hydraulic brakes and was initially shocked at how uncomfortable the hoods are. Reaching over the hoods I get far less power than I did on the hybrid. This is because the level angle is just wrong, requiring finger strength rather using whole strength of my hand to operate the brakes. The bulk of the body of the shifter doesn't help either. Its not as if I have small weedy hands either. I can easily play bar chords on a guitar.

The gear change is a bit pants too.

 

[sight-pin]

Its not as if I have small weedy hands either. I can easily play bar cords on a guitar.

Alright. Don't fret about it

 

[mgs315]

Are they RS505s? They don’t seem to be for everybody due to the size and lump in the palm area. I’m quite lucky that I’m not bothered by them at all but I know a friend that was looking at swapping them out due to not getting on with them.

 

[vickster]

The size and undisputed fugliness puts me off hydraulic road discs completely. Sram are barely any better than Shimano either

 

[AlanW]

Are they RS505s?

No the new Dura Ace, which is even worse considering how bloody expensive it was!!!

 

[Jenkins]

I've got the RS685 units on one of mine and they're surprisingly comforable and easy to use considering theirr bulk.

 

[Milkfloat]

I would start by mirroring the geometry from your existing bikes to the hoods. When I say mirroring I mean everything, even if it appears unrelated.

 

[Richard A Thackeray]

I noticed the difference in shape/length, when going from my previous Ribble, with Tiagra STI, to the CGR, with hydraulic discs
After a years use, I don't notice it
I would like some better (rougher textured/patterned) hoods, as they can be 'slippery when wet'

BUT, it did feel odd riding my Gran Fondo last week (mechanical Ultegra), with them being shorter

Not the best picture, but the differing lengths can be seen here

 

[AlanW]

I would start by mirroring the geometry from your existing bikes to the hoods. When I say mirroring I mean everything, even if it appears unrelated.

That's the problem, it is much easier said than done because the hydraulic hoods are longer and the bars are flatter on the top curve than all my other bars. So for example, I can set the reach from the tip of the saddle to the centre line of the bars the same as all my other bikes. BUT.....the reach when riding on the hoods is to great.

Likewise, if I reduce the stem length so that the reach to the hoods is the same as my other bikes, then the bars are to close when riding on the tops

 

[Milkfloat]

That's the problem, it is much easier said than done because the hydraulic hoods are longer and the bars are flatter on the top curve than all my other bars. So for example, I can set the reach from the tip of the saddle to the centre line of the bars the same as all my other bikes. BUT.....the reach when riding on the hoods is to great.

Likewise, if I reduce the stem length so that the reach to the hoods is the same as my other bikes, then the bars are to close when riding on the tops

So it could be partially a bar problem shape which is cheaper to solve? Personally, I don't notice too much difference between the hoods on my Ultegra 6800 and the RS-685 Hydraulics, but that could be because I am always on the hoods or in the drops I only use the tops on long climbs. Which levers do you have?

 

[AlanW]

So it could be partially a bar problem shape which is cheaper to solve?

Which levers do you have?

I would agree, I'm pretty certain that it is down to the shape of the bars. All my others are "classic" shape shallow drop, and although the reach is the same on the news ones they are the RHM type. So this means that my hands no longer sit in a sort of "well shape", they sit more on top of the shifters/bars rather than in them if that makes sense.

They are the new shaped Dura Ace ones, which l opted for as l thought that they were slightly better shaped than the Ultegra ones, but maybe not!!!

 

[Milkfloat]

I would agree, I'm pretty certain that it is down to the shape of the bars. All my others are "classic" shape shallow drop, and although the reach is the same on the news ones they are the RHM type. So this means that my hands no longer sit in a sort of "well shape", they sit more on top of the shifters/bars rather than in them if that makes sense.

They are the new shaped Dura Ace ones, which l opted for as l thought that they were slightly better shaped than the Ultegra ones, but maybe not!!!

To make sure you could swap bars around - or if you don't want the faff with multiple tape rewraping, just buy the correct shape bars.

 

[AlanW]

To make sure you could swap bars around - or if you don't want the faff with multiple tape rewraping, just buy the correct shape bars.

Sadly not quite as easy as that otherwise I would have tried it. The hydraulic brake pipes pass through the bars, so l would have to cut the olives and gland nuts off in order to get the pipes out.

 

[Milkfloat]

Sounds like you either get used to it or crack on and spend the cash.