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numpty wobbly back wheel question

Discussion in 'Bicycle Mechanics and Repairs' started by Tynan, 29 Oct 2007.

  1. Tynan

    Tynan Veteran

    Location:
    e4
    I've dug the old bike out from the back of the garden, it did serious miles back in the day and then six odd years in the garden

    lbs changed the bottom bracket and we both agreed the bike was in surprisingly good nick, 25 miles today and towards the end a distinct metal clicky cracky sort of noise

    on arriving home the back wheel has about four mm of play, the quick release bits are tight and the axle itself looks solid so I imagine this is some sort of bearings issue?

    anything a numpty that doesn't like doing more that tighten the odd thing up can do about this or is it one for the lbs to look at and presumably recomend a new rear wheel
     
  2. OP
    OP
    Tynan

    Tynan Veteran

    Location:
    e4
    got his from google after wading through how to true a wheel answers

    Wiggle the wheel against its natural axle and check for side to side wheel movement. Listen to make sure you can’t hear any damaged bearings. If the wheel moves side to side on the axle the bearings will need to be tightened. If there is noise coming from the bearings they may need to be cleaned or replaced. If you cannot adjust the wheel yourself, take it to your bike shop.

    lbs it is, I don;t think the bike justifies a new wheel so fingers crossed it's a fix

    back onto the scooter it is then, sigh
     
  3. llllllll

    llllllll New Member

    Assuming it's got cup and cone bearings (most older wheels have) it'll be pretty easy to adjust. On each end of the axle there'll be two nuts, simply undo to outer one, tighten the inner (just a fraction of a turn though, it's very easy to over tighen then) then re-tighen the outer nut. It may not solve your problem but it's worth a go before taking it to the LBS.
     
  4. Amanda P

    Amanda P The CycleChat user formerly known as Uncle Phil

    It does sound like bearing trouble. The chances are most of the grease washed out during those six years, and the balls will be all rusty. Possibly one or more of them have split or disintegrated - that would cause a sudden looseness, that wasn't present when the LBS had it, to develop. If it's been ridden far in that state, you may have damaged the cup surfaces inside the hub too. To save the bike, it'll need at least new balls and the hub re-assembled with nice clean new grease.

    That's worth a try, but hubs that start behaving like that, in my experience, sooner or later need replacing altogether.

    Whether it's worth saving depends on how good the rest of the bike is, both in condition and in original quality. If it's a Supermarket special, buy a new bike now. If it's something nice, or has sentimental value, it's worth a new wheel.
     
  5. OP
    OP
    Tynan

    Tynan Veteran

    Location:
    e4
    thanks Uncle, it's a £300 special from 15 years ago that did years of 30 plus miles a day through London with minimal attention, it's been back in service while I wait for insurance to replace the new lovely bike now sitting on the patio twisted and buckled

    it's at LBS now, I think I might just be able to scrape up £50 tops to patch it up to keep me on the road for the next few months, I had it serviced a year or so before I jacked in cycling at the time (moved further out) and they basically said it was on it's general last legs all over, bearings etc etc

    I suppose I'll have to start having a crack at the fiddlier bits of servicing now I'm cycling proper again, look forward to my silly and frightened questions, bearings always frighten me
     
  6. fossyant

    fossyant Ride It Like You Stole It!

    Location:
    South Manchester
    Exactly what the other's have said.... most likely bearings, although I've just retired a set of wheels as the rear rim is making awful clickety clicks when riding, or just pressing on the wheel - spokes/nipples getting worn. But 16 years on Mavic Open 4's isn't to be sniffed at....

    The MTB commuter is next - the rear cones are rough... might salvage the cones off my 'retired' wheels as they were smooth.
     
  7. Tip# 67392; Get the bike off the ground, in a workstand or suspended from a rafter in the shed or just by holding the bike off the ground if you are dextrous, spin the wheel whilst pressing your temple firmly onto the side of the saddle.

    You'll be able to hear very clearly everything thats going on inside your hub.
     
  8. Amanda P

    Amanda P The CycleChat user formerly known as Uncle Phil

    £50 would buy a wheel that's more than adequate for a £300 bike. Once it's back on the road, learn to service the other bearings yourself and it'll be good for another 15 years or so.

    And no-one will want to nick it.
     
  9. OP
    OP
    Tynan

    Tynan Veteran

    Location:
    e4
    :blush:

    I hear that, I'm a bit nervous about leaving the new one at college, alright there's thousands of bikes locked up to anything suitable but there's some serious junkers there, I think the shiny one might need some camo

    LBS say collapsed hub, new one being fitted and bike delivered to the house, bless them (the LBS is only 200 yards away mind), (got evening classes for the next three nights) for £30
     
  10. OP
    OP
    Tynan

    Tynan Veteran

    Location:
    e4
    update for anyone that cares

    back wheel now bowed and buckled, brakes unhooked, but still it goes on

    front wheel bearings rumble like hell but it rides fine

    going to get fitted for and put the deposit down on a spanking new Condor Fratello this Friday, and hear with what the delivery time is, and then how much longer the faithful old puffer will have to keep going for

    assuming I can scrape together the balance of the payment ...
     
  11. walker

    walker New Member

    Location:
    Bromley, Kent
    Even thought the QR is tight, is it pushed in all the way?