Octalink 1 left crank keeps loosening

[DCBassman]

1) The Octalink 1 is beyond repair. Change it. Square taper is easily the best option, given the heavy loading used.
2) Do the work yourself, and KNOW that it is OK. Plenty of tutorials out there, and invest in the correct tools.
3) Do NOT keep going back to that dealer, he's not in any way trustworthy. Not even to buy parts.

 

[craigwend]

I sense an impasse or this thread is the new Groundspline Day...

View: https://youtu.be/OyBSrBqogPY

 

[All uphill]

"Do NOT keep going back to that dealer, he's not in any way trustworthy. Not even to buy parts."

I think the dealer might be OK with that.

 

[Ajax Bay]

The dealer was just trying to find a solution that met the OP's (bb) eccentricity requirement. You have to be so careful with Octalink1 as its splines are so short.

 

[DCBassman]

"Do NOT keep going back to that dealer, he's not in any way trustworthy. Not even to buy parts."

I think the dealer might be OK with that.

Either way, and I'm in no doubt that the dealer, good or bad, has had enough...
Find what's needed, buy it, fit it, ride it.

 

[silva]

"Do NOT keep going back to that dealer, he's not in any way trustworthy. Not even to buy parts."

I think the dealer might be OK with that.

Why not, it's just a matter of making things clear, and along email confirmed, then I've something to back up their words haha. If they're ok with something or not, is not relevant, see, I'm the one paying the bill, and if the job is done badly, I make sure it manifests itself quick enough. This particular dealer for ex, 3 so called repairs, 1 failed already before leaving his work room, 1 failed outside when I started pushing, and 1 failed a km further and I walked back and asked to remove the crap and back to what it was, not good, but at least usable lol.

 

[silva]

The dealer was just trying to find a solution that met the OP's (bb) eccentricity requirement. You have to be so careful with Octalink1 as its splines are so short.

What is eccentricity requirement? The hole in the eccenter has just a standard dimension, and by chosing longer / shorter axle one can adjust chainline to the rear cog.
The problem is that dealers think in terms of what they have stuck in stock and how to get rid of it.
He didn't tell me Octalinks vulnerable setup, for the obvious reason that I would refuse it if I knew lol.

 

[classic33]

Why not, it's just a matter of making things clear, and along email confirmed, then I've something to back up their words haha. If they're ok with something or not, is not relevant, see, I'm the one paying the bill, and if the job is done badly, I make sure it manifests itself quick enough. This particular dealer for ex, 3 so called repairs, 1 failed already before leaving his work room, 1 failed outside when I started pushing, and 1 failed a km further and I walked back and asked to remove the crap and back to what it was, not good, but at least usable lol.

He'd have been given the chance to fix it, and if he failed to do that I'd have found somewhere else to do the job/provide the parts required.

You're the one paying, but by your own admission, you've been given parts that aren't what you wanted. Yet you paid for them! You paid for repairs that didn't work according to you, yet refused to accept advise from more than one person on here.

I can understand wanting to keep to a budget, but when than impacts on what you want to do, the budget grows. It can even be a danger to your safety. I tried to point this out, but you dismissed. As you have done with much of the advice given here.

Suggestion is you ditch what you have, save yourself money, and get something that works as it should with fewer issues.

 

[classic33]

One last point for @silva to consider.
You are taking and using a road vehicle in a condition that you know to be unsafe. How long will you carry on doing so, and what will happen if the defect results in an accident?

Original Post attached

 

[silva]

What is unsafe?
You do feel it losening.
Crank is not breaking or so.
The second time it happened, after he used his big allen key, it was uphill, a bridge. The crank showed play when pushing, and since the first experience served to allow a quick judgement, I just stopped, tensioned the bolt again, that required several full rotations.
It's not that the crank all of sudden falls on the road.
I can't see how it would cause an accident. The crank gradually ceases to transfer the force, and you feel your foot going in unusual way. The first time I had no clue, I just kept pedaling while wondering, and then the crank just hung down, making clear the problem.
That pedal that came lose recently was also like that. I felt alot play and the pedal moved sideways like 2 cm on its axle.
And these experiences made me check tension. So that I discover the losening in an early stage.
The now added experience with the step hitting my side is that after the crank receives a shock, it's a good idea to start rechecking the tension a while.

 

[craigwend]

I've got a tune in my head now...

View: https://youtu.be/7XWkQWizc4g

 

[fossyant]

Every blooming thread. We give good advice, OP ignores it and still has a bike that bits drop off or break. Octalink was never good due to the design of the splines, and was very quickly replaced ! I've heve rhad issues with square taper. External bearings, which the OP can't use, are OK too, although GXP needs regular greasing.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

It’s been 13 days since original problem raised, lots of good advice. Problem must be solved by now, no more problems.

 

[classic33]

It’s been 13 days since original problem raised, lots of good advice. Problem must be solved by now, no more problems.

Not according to his last post.
It still comes loose, but he's not as bothered about it now, or getting it fixed.

 

[cyberknight]

FSA powerdrive are just as bad, the BB is one of the worst obnes i have ever used for rapid wear as i might get 6 months out of a BB