Pedal cap

[Johnno260]

This fell off this morning.

what tool do I even need tighten it as it’s beyond finger right.

 

[DCLane]

It's a Shimano Hollowtech bolt - you need a "Shimano Crank Installation Tool for Hollowtech". Costs about £3-4 and they look like this.

 

[C R]

This fell off this morning.

what tool do I even need tighten it as it’s beyond finger right.

You need this tool
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/hollowtech-crank-tool-id_8403023.html
You will need to loosen the pinch bolts to do it up. It only needs about 1Nm, so be careful not to over do it. Once you have that in place you need to tighten the pinch bolts again, those are to about 13Nm from memory.

However, that part should not come off if the pinch bolts have been done up properly, so some investigation is in order as to how it came loose. If the pinch bolts are loose the crank might come off, with unpleasant consequences.

 

[davidphilips]

Make sure and check your 2 crank arm bolts are not loose ? Sorry just seen reply from C R, know a cyclist (posted about it a few months ago) and there L/H crank arm came of during a group cycle and he broke his collar bone it was caught on flim but he was lucky he did not fall off in front of a car and the other cyclists with him where lucky he did not take them all down.

 

[raleighnut]

Once you've set the bearing 'pre-load' and tightened the crank up you can remove it, it's not doing anything

 

[fossyant]

Don't be tempted to use any force/torque on it.

 

[ianrauk]

Don't be tempted to use any force/torque on it.

Yup, hand tight will do ya.

 

[fossyant]

You soon get used to what different type of BB's need. I quite like how easy Hollowtech II is to adjust pre-load. GXP BB's are the complete reverse. Even though there are a very similar set up, you need loads of torque tightening up the 'bolt' on the non drive side - more than you can get with a standard hex key - I use a torque wrench on mine. If you don't do it up mega tight, then it creaks - something daft like 40Nm !

 

[Johnno260]

Ordered the tool for the future thanks everyone.

The mobile cycle mechanic was passing my place and knew this had happened to did it for free, he fitted the group set back in March so wanted to make sure everything was ok etc.

 

[Ajax Bay]

he fitted the group set back in March so wanted to make sure everything was ok etc.

I bet he did! That should not loosen/fall out.

 

[winjim]

You soon get used to what different type of BB's need. I quite like how easy Hollowtech II is to adjust pre-load. GXP BB's are the complete reverse. Even though there are a very similar set up, you need loads of torque tightening up the 'bolt' on the non drive side - more than you can get with a standard hex key - I use a torque wrench on mine. If you don't do it up mega tight, then it creaks - something daft like 40Nm !

That's not daft, Campag UT is 42-60Nm. Basically find the longest wrench you've got and get an elephant to stand on it.

 

[C R]

Once you've set the bearing 'pre-load' and tightened the crank up you can remove it, it's not doing anything

In my experience it doesn't come off with the pinch bolts tight, you need to undo the pinch bolts to be able to turn it.

 

[Johnno260]

I bet he did! That should not loosen/fall out.

He checked the pinch screws and they were up to torque, I had checked them with my torque wrench as well.

I assume the pinch screws are the more important ones ie stop the crank arm become detached?

 

[C R]

He checked the pinch screws and they were up to torque, I had checked them with my torque wrench as well.

I assume the pinch screws are the more important ones ie stop the crank arm become detached?

So did he undo the pinch bolts, preload with that nut and then redo the pinch bolts?

 

[Johnno260]

So did he undo the pinch bolts, preload with that nut and then redo the pinch bolts?

Yes he did, the steps you said above to the T.