Peugeot Bike Advice

[km991148]

Hi,

I am looking at buying a late 80s Peugeot bike as a commuter for short distances. I am not 100% sure what model - it has the same paint scheme as this and is marked as being Mangalloy (which I guess is (slightly!) better than the Carbolite frames). The frame itself has a little rust (not too much at all) and the bike seems mostly in reasonable condition. Slight annoyances aside (It has brake lever extensions and non indexed downtube shifters.. which I will adjust to) I am considering buying it.. however I have no idea ow much it is worth. It runs well - so takes it from the <£50 skip category.. but I dont really want to pay over the odds..

Also - if I buy it, what should I be looking out for? What cn I expect to spend money on initially?

Cheers,
km

 

[sidevalve]

All depends on if it is in current use, if the last owner maintained it andhow far you mean to commute.
If it's been stood you may need new tyres / tubes, if not maintained at all you could need new chain /sprockets, bearings, cables, brake blocks, plus adjustment / lubrication of everything else. Could be just a case of adjust the saddle and off you go. If you know it runs well because you've tried it then you [should] already know what it needs. The non indexed shifters are a personal thing, some get used to 'em some don't. Some prefer 'em.
As to the brake extensions I must admit I don't see the problem with them. No they arn't as good as the proper levers, for a hard stop you still have to move your hands, but you have to do that anyway without them. Even car drivers [who have two brakes, hand and foot] are capable of working out that in an emergency you use the most powerfull brake [in their case foot] and only use the handbrake for what it's meant for [in their case parking]. I used to use them years ago and never really had a problem, they are fine for what they are meant for, ie gentle slowing down, but if that's too complicated they are usually easy enough to remove.
As for value, well, up to you and the condition but as an idea my Dawes cost £50 and needed chain and a thourough clean adjust and lube [yes I fitted tyres, new handlebar tape, brake blocks and a Brooks saddle but they wern't VITAL, I just fancied a bit of fettling], so I wouldn't go over £75 tops.

 

[smokeysmoo]

I'd agree with sidevalve. I used to remove suicide levers off my bikes in the 80's TBH.

What I would add is make sure on the size. Don't assume that you can raise the saddle much if need be, as you can't, they only had short seat posts compared today's bikes, and they are usually a very odball 24mm size that are incredibly difficult to find.

I bought one once off THIS guy, it was nicely made but due to the rarity of them he certainly knew how to charge, but when I wanted another one for another bike he didn't have them and couldn't get any, so not sure if he can or not anymore.

 

[biggs682]

they make great commuter bikes and frames are fairly bullet proof , just note seat post dia and short length , without seeing actual pictures of bike difficult to value but they do fetch good money if clean condition . has it got steel chromex rims or alloy ?

 

[km991148]

Thanks all for the opinions. I had a quick ride on it, but due to different geometry it felt..well different! But certainly usable for me. Its priced up at £130 and has non original alloy rims. For a short enough commute it should do me, but I forgot to check to see if it eyelets for a mudguard (prob not?) although I am hoping I can fit a spare crud catcher road racer mkII guard I have kicking about. The suicide levers I can live with, all other components are fine. Cables not new, but good nick, but may need a new cassette soon..

Also - I will need new wheels on my road bike soon - if I wanted to, would it be easy to transfer them on the peugeot?

 

[smokeysmoo]

may need a new cassette soon

It may well have a Maillard Helicomatic Hub, for more details AASHTA, (scroll down to "The Maillard Helicomatic Hub").

Not sure how available these are nowadays, but they do have a specific TOOL that costs a pretty packet!

 

[DCLane]

I run an 80's bike (Ammaco Tony Doyle) as a commuter back-up bike. It cost nothing, but needed a bit of work to get going again. Help from here with paint meant it's been re-built for the princely sum of £20.

The suicide levers are fine, once you get used to them.

 

[km991148]

It may well have a Maillard Helicomatic Hub, for more details AASHTA, (scroll down to "The Maillard Helicomatic Hub").

Not sure how available these are nowadays, but they do have a specific TOOL that costs a pretty packet!

ouch.. another thing to check out.. pretty sure the wheels are more modern tho.. will need to ask a bit more, thanks!

 

[biggs682]

go and enjoy being a pug commuter most of the older steel frames they made had eyelets on

 

[Bobtoo]

As I recall you could just unscrew the suicide levers and be left with ordinary levers.

 

[guitarpete247]

As I recall you could just unscrew the suicide levers and be left with ordinary levers.

I did that with the ones I had many years ago.
As has been said, the suicide levers don't give enough pressure for good stopping power. They also mean you don't get the full movement of the main brake lever so reduce braking power.

 

[Cycleops]

Sounds ok but £130 is too much considering the rust and remember the suicide levers only came on the lower end bikes. You need to make sure it's the right size for you as someone else said, you can live with it being a bit small but remember to leave 2 inches min iof seatpost nside the tube.

 

[Teuchter]

I'd agree that unless it's mint, £130 sounds a bit much for that bike. On saying that, I rebuilt a Peugeot I'd pulled out of a skip in a pretty poor state (details here). Total cost was about £120 but a significant proportion of that went on new wheels though I also splashed out on luxuries like nice new aero brake levers. It's now my favourite bike (over my much more expensive modern road bike) and a very comfortable ride that I use most days.

If it's already got alloy rims, is in useable condition as it is and it fits you then the price may be justifiable. What it's worth is afterall whatever someone is willing to pay for it and you'll be getting a decent enough bike for the money that you can upgrade here and there in future if the desire grabs you. It'll certainly be 100 times better than a £130 new bike shaped object for example.

 

[Cycleops]

But if the alloy rims are well worn they may need to be replaced anyway and may not have been 'new' when fitted. I agree something is only worth as someone is willing to pay so you just have to weigh up the pros and cons.

 

[tyred]

All you can do is judge it on condition. It's better to pay slightly over the odds for something that is in good working condition and requires no major replacement parts than to try and rebuild a basket case which will probably end up costing more in the long run.

Check condition of wheel rims, brake/gear cables, chain, freewheel block and chainwheels, check BB, headset and hub bearings for play (although it's possible this will adjust out) and above all else ensure the frame is a comfortable fit for you.