Plastic Rear Mudguard Bridge

[AlanW]

When these are new they are okay, to a point. But after a few hundred miles the edge of the mudguard wears and the mudguard starts to rattle backwards and forwards.
Of course the best option is to have the rear brake bridge drilled and taped so that you can bolt the mudguard direct to the bridge.
Sadly this is not an option on this bike, so lm looking for suggestions to affix it securely to the mudguard? I did think l might be able to bolt it, but there is not enough clearance for the nut eitherabove or below the mudguard.
Any suggestions?

 

[Ian H]

Pop-rivet from underneath?

 

[AlanW]

Pop-rivet from underneath?

I did think about that, but l would need a hollow type rivet like the ones used to secure the metal bracket on the front mudguard. I dont know if you can buy that sort, so off to look on ebay!

 

[AlanW]

No clearance for anything!

 

[faster]

No clearance for anything!
View attachment 602118

On mine I've binned the bracket completely, cut two small slits in the mudguard either side of the bridge, then zip tied the mudguard directly to the brake bridge (zip tie threaded through the slits, which are only just big enough to get the tie through).

Much neater the the bracket, never shakes loose and doesn't corrode. Quiet too.

 

[AlanW]

On mine I've binned the bracket completely, cut two small slits in the mudguard either side of the bridge, then zip tied the mudguard directly to the brake bridge (zip tie threaded through the slits, which are only just big enough to get the tie through).

Much neater the the bracket, never shakes loose and doesn't corrode. Quiet too.

Yes, lve done that on two of my other bikes and as you say, its a great fix.
But on the Ti frame, the brake bridge is a odd shape and also tapered, which means its that that easy to apply the cable tie fix. The gap between the bridge and the mudguard is the problem, which is really annouying to be honest!

 

[si_c]

Replace it with a metal version. I had exactly the same issue with my Trek supplied mudguard clip, it rattled and didn't hold the guard properly, you can resolve it with something like this.

 

[Chris S]

I've used a strip of rubber cut from an inner tube between the bridge and the mudguard

 

[C R]

I've used a strip of rubber cut from an inner tube between the bridge and the mudguard

Same here, not made a noise since.

 

[silva]

I once solved a similar problem by plasticwelding both parts together on enough places on the circumference.
If the plastics don't differ that much, for ex nylon is quite handy to weld, but it doesn't attach to many plastics so I have to melt pits and "anchor" the added nylon like that.
But the begin of the problem is vibration, and as said, a piece inner tube rubber between it will absorb the energy.

 

[AlanW]

Replace it with a metal version. I had exactly the same issue with my Trek supplied mudguard clip, it rattled and didn't hold the guard properly, you can resolve it with something like this.

To be honest, I've used the metal ones in the past and have never managed to crimp the four tabs down enough to stop the mudguard from fretting the same as it does with the plastic clip.

 

[AlanW]

I once solved a similar problem by plasticwelding both parts together on enough places on the circumference.
If the plastics don't differ that much, for ex nylon is quite handy to weld, but it doesn't attach to many plastics so I have to melt pits and "anchor" the added nylon like that.
But the begin of the problem is vibration, and as said, a piece inner tube rubber between it will absorb the energy.

I was thinking the same but maybe try it using using a glue gun, or failing that superglue the bugger on? But as you say, vibration is the issue and I'm sure by either gluing it or welding it, it will only serve to create a stress point and crack!

 

[AlanW]

Same here, not made a noise since.

It only makes a noise once the two leading edges on the mudguard wear because the mudguard moves ever so slightly backwards and forwards rubbing away the two edges. As a result the mudguard bracket no longer holds the mudguard as secure as it does when both components are brand new. The key is to stop it fretting in the first place.

 

[C R]

It only makes a noise once the two leading edges on the mudguard wear because the mudguard moves ever so slightly backwards and forwards rubbing away the two edges. As a result the mudguard bracket no longer holds the mudguard as secure as it does when both components are brand new. The key is to stop it fretting in the first place.

The way I have it is the inner tube strip is jammed between the bridge and the mudguard, so there's no movement possible, and as the inner tube material is elastic it absorbs any vibration. I'll try to add a photo later today.

 

[mickle]

I have several spare new stainless steel ones if anyone wants. Happy to stick in the post FOC.