Poor disc brake performance

[DWM]

Thanks all

I don't think there is an issue with air in the system, however I do have a bleed kit so can try that.

I hope the attached image shows the condition of the discs clearly enough. I don't think its an issue with rotor as these are the third different set I've tried (unless I am doing something wrong each time) - in general I try to brake fairly firmly rather than gently. In terms of bedding in the pads/rotors, I did this each time by riding down a nearby slope a few times, breaking firmly to a near stop a number of times. The performance increased significantly during this process, but is still lacking compared with my other bike. I also do not think it is a contamination issue, as this affects both the front and rear brake - the front brake is well away from all the oil/lube etc so I cannot see how that could happen.

I hope I've answered all the questions. I appreciate your reply's.

Cheers

Dave

 

[Yellow Saddle]

The photo is not good enough. I would like to see the texture of the surface. I can sort of make it out where the light is right, next to the fork in the 10-past position but it isn't good enough to give advice.

Could you try another photo, perhaps with the window light from behind?

 

[Pale Rider]

The rotor looks like a 160mm.

If so, a bigger one such as a 180mm would be worth a go.

Some bikes have a bigger rotor on the front due to the heavy bias towards braking the front wheel.

A 180mm would probably fit, although some spacing of the calliper will be required.

Kits are available which include the necessary packing washers/mounts and longer bolts.

Something from this google search may suit.

https://www.google.co.uk/?client=firefox-b-ab#q=180mm+rotor+adapter&gfe_rd=cr

 

[mythste]

The rotor looks like a 160mm.

If so, a bigger one such as a 180mm would be worth a go.

Some bikes have a bigger rotor on the front due to the heavy bias towards braking the front wheel.

A 180mm would probably fit, although some spacing of the calliper will be required.

Kits are available which include the necessary packing washers/mounts and longer bolts.

Something from this google search may suit.

https://www.google.co.uk/?client=firefox-b-ab#q=180mm+rotor+adapter&gfe_rd=cr

Having used HYRDS with a fully loaded steel bike (2 ortliebs, and my lardy behind) in all weathers with 160mm front and 140 back, I dont think I can substantiate this claim through my experience. They could stop a horse when they're working properly.

 

[ColinJ]

I put a HyRd on the front of my CAADX to replace a rather ineffective Render R which had been on there before. It provides enough braking power for me on 20+% descents.

When you say that the brakes have poor braking performance, do you mean that they will not stop you properly even if you pull the levers to the bars, or do you stop ok but have to pull harder than you expected to?

I do have to pull the front brake lever a long way to get significant braking, but full braking (wheel locking) is achieved before the lever gets to the bars, which is the important thing.

 

[DWM]

I'm pleased that a number of you have reported that your HyRd's are effective - that gives me hope of finding a solution.

@ColinJ - the brakes work, just not very well! I know HyRd's have a long lever pull, but I can pull the lever all the way back to the bar without any fear of locking up/going over the handlebars. The rear brake is perhaps a little better than the front, but nowhere near as good as I think it should be.

I think the only option is to try new rotors and pads and see what happens. I will report back.

Thanks again for all the comments.

Dave

 

[Tim Hall]

I'm pleased that a number of you have reported that your HyRd's are effective - that gives me hope of finding a solution.

@ColinJ - the brakes work, just not very well! I know HyRd's have a long lever pull, but I can pull the lever all the way back to the bar without any fear of locking up/going over the handlebars. The rear brake is perhaps a little better than the front, but nowhere near as good as I think it should be.

I think the only option is to try new rotors and pads and see what happens. I will report back.

Thanks again for all the comments.

Dave

Surely if the lever comes all the way back to the bar that suggests an adjustment issue - pads too far from the disc in the first place kind of thing.

 

[e-rider]

you have the answer to your question contained within the first post you made - you have TRP (aka Tektro) brakes - they are rubbish!

 

[Elybazza61]

you have the answer to your question contained within the first post you made - you have TRP (aka Tektro) brakes - they are rubbish!

Nothing wrong with my TRP Spyres,great braking and well made too.

Deffo looks like some sort of set-up issue rather than pad/disc contamination;could be something as simple as cable set-up.

 

[Pale Rider]

you have the answer to your question contained within the first post you made - you have TRP (aka Tektro) brakes - they are rubbish!

This may not be the most popular post on here today, but the mechanics in my local bike shop would generally agree with it.

The Tektro Auriga hydraulics on my 20" wheel AVE bike are OK, the Magura hydraulics on my Rose lack feel and ultimately, stopping power.

The best brakes I've tried have always had Shimano stamped on them.

 

[ianrauk]

Having used HYRDS with a fully loaded steel bike (2 ortliebs, and my lardy behind) in all weathers with 160mm front and 140 back, I dont think I can substantiate this claim through my experience. They could stop a horse when they're working properly.

Agreed. My experience of 2 x160's on a fully panniered bike worked very well on a very wet, speedy descent of the Jura Mountains.

 

[DWM]

I have just checked again and I may have exaggerated slightly - the lever gets very close to, but doesn't quite touch the bars (when pulled as hard as I can whilst off the bike.

Is it possible to adjust the pads so they are closer to the rotors? As the attached image (hopefully) shows the clearances are pretty tight anyway (the other side is the same).

Cheers

Dave

 

[thedatastream]

I have a Croix as well and found brake performance a bit wanting recently. Probably a combination of pad wear and cable stretch meant the levers, particularly the left hand one for the back brake, were touching the bars before maximum brake effort was being applied. I loosened the cable clamp on the caliper, pulled the cable tight and moved the caliper actuation arm a bit further down the cable to take more slack out of the system. Tightened it all up and braking performance was much improved.

I've been using organic pads on my MTB for a whle but find they are very porous and retain whatever oil, grease and general rubbish gets onto them causing poor braking and squealing pads. My LBS chap put some Clarks sintered pads (same as in the stock Croix I think) in and I'm not going back to organic as the performance is much improved.

 

[jowwy]

I use cable operated trp spyres....they are awesome in all conditions and inspire full confidence at 40+mph on descents

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I have just checked again and I may have exaggerated slightly - the lever gets very close to, but doesn't quite touch the bars (when pulled as hard as I can whilst off the bike.

Is it possible to adjust the pads so they are closer to the rotors? As the attached image (hopefully) shows the clearances are pretty tight anyway (the other side is the same).

Cheers

Dave

Well, if the lever gets close but doesn't touch, an adjustment will only alter your perception and feel of the brake, not the performance.

My guess is still a glazed disc but until I see a photo of the disc, all suggestions will be guesses.