POWER

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
Everybody who's thinking about buying a powermeter but isn't sure - do it! It's by far the best investment I have made in my cycling.

SRM, Quarq, Powertap or P2M - pick your choice to suit your budget, but second hand Powertap is a really affordable route into training with power.

I agree, the long term gains made from training effectivelly (which a power meter helps immeasurably with) far outweigh those you would gain from spending the same money on bikes and/or other equipment.

The worst thing about power meters is that, despite costing well in excess of a grand, they tend not to be fit and forget bits of kit, you need to know how to use them and negate the quirks in order to collect accurate and robust data.
 
OP
OP
VamP

VamP

Banned
Location
Cambs
I have been toying with the idea but with me not intending to compete it would be an indulgence that would end up in the same realm of statistics as the cadence. I keep coming back to fact the cost would a good depoist on an expensive bike.


I disagree with that. I'd rather have power than a new bike, and I see it at the completely other end of the information spectrum from cadence, which is possibly the least useful metric in cycling. Having siad that, you need to have a desire to improve to justify a power meter, so if you're happy where you are then you probably won't use it effectively.
 

gam001

Über Member
My mate has a powertap, but seems to have a lot of problems with the wheel going out of true. Is this a common issue and is there anything that can be done to mitigate it? He runs it on Mavic Aksiums IIRC.
It's on a Mavic Open Pro. (Aksiums are on my other bike :thumbsup: )
Seems to be a lot of lateral movement in wheel between brake pads, and spokes break quite often, so think hubs a little loose. There were some threads on this so must be quite common. Recently sent off rear wheel to Paligap to fix / service and awaiting return.
 

gam001

Über Member
I have only ridden just over a thousand miles on mine, but it's as true as it was out of the box. I guess like any hub, he could get it rebuilt?

Done about 8k miles on it now. Sent off to be fixed / serviced.:thumbsup:
 

jarlrmai

Veteran
questions

I have all 105 on my Specialized bike what will I need to do if I buy a Quarq crank set I guess I'll need a Garmin as well? New BB? will I need new everything else?

Should I just get a Powertap wheel set?
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
It would depend which model of Quarq you buy as to if you will need to change anything. Generally you will need a matching bottom bracket and a Garmin (or other ANT+ enabled device which supports power meters), that is all.
 

amaferanga

Veteran
Location
Bolton
It's on a Mavic Open Pro. (Aksiums are on my other bike :thumbsup: )
Seems to be a lot of lateral movement in wheel between brake pads, and spokes break quite often, so think hubs a little loose. There were some threads on this so must be quite common. Recently sent off rear wheel to Paligap to fix / service and awaiting return.

That's sounds like a badly built wheel - it's not a PowerTap issue. Play in the hub itself wouldn't snap spokes.
 

amaferanga

Veteran
Location
Bolton
My 2p worth.

I'd never recommend anyone buy a used PowerTap. Once they're out of warranty you're looking at around £425 to replace the torque tube. It's impossible to know just how long a torque tube will last, but anything beyond a few years seems to be quite unusual and a couple of years quite normal, especially with the SL+ hub which is poorly sealed and leaks water. My PowerTap Pro+ was trouble free for 2.5 years and then it just died. I decided not to pay the ridiculous £425 for repair and bought a Power2max instead (for about £750).

The other issue with PowerTaps is the restriction on wheel choice. I ended up swapping rims so I'd build the hub into a carbon clincher for summer which I'd use for training and racing and then an alloy rim for the winter. That worked I suppose, but it's not ideal.

My P2M is the SRAM S900 gxp version. The right crank is a bit tricky to find since its the older version, but they do come up on eBay fairly often. I recently bought a spare for £65 which isn't bad for a really nice carbon crankset. Swapping between bikes is a 2 minute job - it really is that easy with gxp bottom brackets. So the claimed advantage of a PowerTap being easier to swap between bikes isn't really true.

As for data, I've had no reason to doubt the data from either the PowerTap or P2M. Hub based power is much more jumpy and there are more erroneous 1s spikes, but anything beyond a few seconds average is ok. The zero offset on my P2M is stable and as far as I can tell the temperature compensation update does it's job. Mine came with the temperature compensation stuff so I don't know what it'd be like without it. I've had no reason to doubt the data from my P2M even when I go straight out from hot-cold. After around 15min the zero offset settles and varies little through the rest of the ride. One possible negative for the P2M is that you can't set the slope (like you can with Quarq and SRM) so if you calibrate it and find a different slope from the calibration certificate then you'd have to return it to P2M in Germany for them to sort it out. One big plus for P2M is that they offer a half price crash replacement.

I've never owned a Quarq, but from reading the Google Wattage list (where lot's of very smart people (and the occasional idiot) discuss power meters) there do seem to be a lot of warranty returns and quite a few unhappy customers who've had recurrent issues. It's always hard to know just what percentage of owners have issues, but I'd say there are more unhappy Quarq customers than SRM, P2M or PowerTap customers.

SRM still is the gold standard for power meters. Returning them once or twice a year for a battery change is maybe a pain, but that's not a reason to not buy one IMO. I'd have one if I had a spare couple of grand. There's a prototype SRM with usb recharging anyway so the battery change issue may disappear soon.

Keep an eye out for Brim Bros pedal system which is maybe going to be released this year (or maybe not). I don't think we'll ever see the Garmin Vector.
 

gam001

Über Member
That's sounds like a badly built wheel - it's not a PowerTap issue. Play in the hub itself wouldn't snap spokes.
There does seem to be an issue with play in PowerTap hubs which is the same issue I am having...
http://www.timetriallingforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=55702
Wasn't 100% sure whether it was that causing spokes to break more often that on my other wheels, but seemed a bit too coincidental to not be linked.
I'll see what Paligap say when they've taken a look.
 

jdtate101

Ex-Fatman
My mate has a powertap, but seems to have a lot of problems with the wheel going out of true. Is this a common issue and is there anything that can be done to mitigate it? He runs it on Mavic Aksiums IIRC.

I had the same issue. The wheel would go out of true under high torque loads. I had the 21 spoke version laced into Mavic Cosmic Carbone wheels with Sapim spokes. It practically went out of true every 3 rides. I'm not a heavy rider, but when I spoke to the dealer he mentioned this can be a common problem with powertap's. He seem to think it was to do with the large diameter of the hub creating larger than normal rotation stress under high loads and pulling the spokes more than a typical sized hub.
I got my wheel built by a professional builder here in the Midlands, and he first used standard steel spokes. Three of them snapped the first time I sprinted on it!!!! I then got them replaced with the Sapim CX-Ray spokes, the strongest bladed ones I could find. I haven't had any broken since then, but they still go out of true. I've yet to investigate getting some thread locking glue on the nipples to help, but at the moment it's just fine in my turbo setup.
 

GrasB

Veteran
Location
Nr Cambridge
Interestingly both my rear PT wheels are 1 cross & I've not had any problems with them. One issue with doing this is the spoke tension needs to be very high. One uses sapim CX-RAY spokes & secure lock nipples, the other uses a double butted dt-swiss spoke & sapim secure lock nipples. I'm 81kg & put down some serious power.
 

GrasB

Veteran
Location
Nr Cambridge
What sort of 10 & 25 mile TT times are you laying down @GrasB?
Typically 25-30min & 75-80min but mostly I do hill climb style TTs. Best 16km has been 18m 27s as art of a 46m 52s 40km... continuing on to 50.92km over the hour. Those are bent timings though, so hard to quantify against a TT bike.
 

gam001

Über Member
What
Interestingly both my rear PT wheels are 1 cross & I've not had any problems with them. One issue with doing this is the spoke tension needs to be very high. One uses sapim CX-RAY spokes & secure lock nipples, the other uses a double butted dt-swiss spoke & sapim secure lock nipples. I'm 81kg & put down some serious power.
What kind of power GrasB?
 
Top Bottom