Powertap G3 hub/wheel

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Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
When all this is over I've decided to get myself a power meter. I'm spending so much time on the Turbo these days and getting used to seeing that figure.

Now, I'm fully aware that this is not going to be a cost-effective purchase. Nor is it going to be particularly useful or sensible. But there you go, it's what I've decided to do. If you feel like pointing these facts out - feel free. You will be right.

Back to the subject. I've decided on a Powertap G3 hub. Reason being a hub based unit is the simplest to fit and reportedly reliable. Pedal based are out because they all seem to require SL type cleats and I'm strictly a 2 bolt SPD guy. Crank based ones seem to be a gigantic PITA. The only signficant downside to a hub seems to be that you can't swap race and training wheels round. That's not an issue at all for me. Why Powertap G3? - well, reading around it seems to be the most recommended one and dcrainmaker seems fine with it.

I'd get the 32 hole one and get it built into a Mavic OpenPro rim. Why OpenPro? because that's the type of rim I use. I don't get through rims fast enough to have tried lots of different ones so I stick with what works for me.

I note that I currently run 36H wheels. The hub only goes up to 32. I'm no featherweight and the combined weight of me, the bike, bottles and my sandwiches and pork pies will come in at a bit over 100kg (max 110kg I'd think). I doubt I'm getting anywhere near the point where my weight is an issue for 30-odd spoked wheels.

So is there anything fundamentally wrong with the new rear wheel that I'm envisioning - in terms of rim choice and choice of a hub meter over crank etc. Aside from the obvious fact that it's not an entirely sensible idea overall, of course.
 
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DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
Nothing wrong with it but they've been known to need calibrating a lot. I got rid of ours and went for a crank-based Stages power meter due to cost/reliability.
 
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Dogtrousers

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
Nothing wrong with it but they've been known to need calibrating a lot. I got rid of ours and went for a crank-based Stages power meter due to cost/reliability.
Thanks for the response.

Funny you say that because from what I've been reading I got the impression that it was more "fit and forget" than a lot of other things. Do you think I've come to a wrong conclusion there?

dcrainmaker said in 2018 PowerTap [g3 hub] is the closest I get to ‘set it and forget it’ [...] (talking specifically to calibration/offset variance and stability).
 
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