Project bike

[Tel]

What do you mean?
If your making a fixed, you cant have an old rear mech there tensioning your chain, or one of those springy chain tensioners. Riding fixed puts forces on both sides of the chain, so its unsafe to use. Sorry if you didnt mean this.

Nope didn't mean that and I'm aware of the tensioner issues on a fixed, but thanks anyway.

If you mean can you use a 1/8th chain on stuff thats 3/32. The answer is yes. I have a 3/32 sprocket on my fixed, and on my old fixed i had a 3/32 sprocket and chainring and it was fine. If i were you though, i would have a 1/8th chainring. Much stronger ring.

Yup this is what I meant. I've got all 3/32 stuff at the moment if I like the fixed wheel thing then perhaps I'll invest later. Cheers for the advice.

 

[samid]

Also keep in mind that 3/32 chains/sprockets/chainwheels work perfectly well with ss/fixed, no need to go 1/8 (except for the coolness factor, that is)

Rubbish, 1/8th is better. Much stronger so it lasts longer, and it shouldnt come off as easy as what a 3/32 chain does.

Rubbish, 3/32 is better.

Seriously - 1/8th may be stronger than 3/32. By the same logic, steel cranks (for instance) are stronger than aluminum ones. Still, most ride aluminum cranks despite this. So that depends on the person's priorities.

As for your 2nd point - I am not sure what you mean. Do you often have the chain come off? If so, you might look into proper chain tension and/or chainline. If not, then please explain why the relative ease of the chain coming off is important considering that it does not happen with either 1/8 or 3/32 chain provided it is properly tensioned.

 

[Joe24]

Rubbish, 3/32 is better.

Seriously - 1/8th may be stronger than 3/32. By the same logic, steel cranks (for instance) are stronger than aluminum ones. Still, most ride aluminum cranks despite this. So that depends on the person's priorities.

As for your 2nd point - I am not sure what you mean. Do you often have the chain come off? If so, you might look into proper chain tension and/or chainline. If not, then please explain why the relative ease of the chain coming off is important considering that it does not happen with either 1/8 or 3/32 chain provided it is properly tensioned.

Rubbish.
1/8th is better. It lasts Longer. It wont come off as easy.
Ive had chains come off before, they were 1/8th and it was because the crankset was shite.
The chain doesnt come fof as easy with 1/8th, that is a fact.
And, have you never had your chain losen up on a long hilly ride when you are giving it alot of power, and keeping on sprinting up hills or for signs? I have.
1/8th chain doesnt move side to side so much because its stronger.
If i had a 3/32chain on my fixed i bet it would last the same amount of time on my bike as my 8speed chain does on my Giant geared bike. Somewhere around a month.
My 1/8th chain lasts longer.
Why not go for the stronger and better chain?

 

[samid]

Rubbish.
1/8th is better. It lasts Longer. It wont come off as easy.
Ive had chains come off before, they were 1/8th and it was because the crankset was shite.
The chain doesnt come fof as easy with 1/8th, that is a fact.
And, have you never had your chain losen up on a long hilly ride when you are giving it alot of power, and keeping on sprinting up hills or for signs? I have.
1/8th chain doesnt move side to side so much because its stronger.
If i had a 3/32chain on my fixed i bet it would last the same amount of time on my bike as my 8speed chain does on my Giant geared bike. Somewhere around a month.
My 1/8th chain lasts longer.
Why not go for the stronger and better chain?

E.g. to use parts and tools (such as chain whip) that one might already have. You may be a much stronger rider than I, and may wear out chains so fast that going for 1/8 makes sense for you. I congratulate you in that case. But would be interested to know whether you yourself have actually had 3/32 chains coming off/wearing noticeably faster than 1/8, or is this all conjecture on your part?

I have used 3/32 drivetrains on my fixed bikes without problems. If you search well-respected fixed gear resources such as sheldonbrown.com you will see that I'm not the only one using 3/32 drivetrain on fixed. So what you're saying is rubbish from my POV.

 

[Joe24]

E.g. to use parts and tools (such as chain whip) that one might already have. You may be a much stronger rider than I, and may wear out chains so fast that going for 1/8 makes sense for you. I congratulate you in that case. But would be interested to know whether you yourself have actually had 3/32 chains coming off/wearing noticeably faster than 1/8, or is this all conjecture on your part?

I have used 3/32 drivetrains on my fixed bikes without problems. If you search well-respected fixed gear resources such as sheldonbrown.com you will see that I'm not the only one using 3/32 drivetrain on fixed. So what you're saying is rubbish from my POV.

I have a 3/32nd sprocket on the back.
I used to have a 3/32nd sprocket and chainring, but i had 1/8th on them,
An 8 speed chain is pretty much 3/32, i have them last about a month.
I have never worn out a 1/8th chain, i have twisted 2 links in one though when i bent a chainring.
Im not saying that 3/32 drivetrains are bad, ive run them, except i had a 1/8th chain on them instead. They were fine.
But having a 1/8 chain, with a good 1/8 chainring is good.
For my TTs i have a 1/8th chain on a 1/8th chainring and a 1/8th sprocket. On the last one i did, i was powering up a hill, hit a bump and ended up bouncing into the air. Im surprised the chain didnt come off. I reckon on my old set up it would of come off.
Edit: I love the Sheldon Brown arguement. People just go on there looking to see what he says to see if they are right

 

[Joe24]

At least put what Sheldon has to say
"I would generally advise using the 3/32" (derailer) size. It is lighter, more compatible with your existing chainwheels, and likely to run smoother if the chainline is less than perfect, due to beveled side plates. In my experience, 3/32" chain is no less durable or reliable than 1/8"."

He generally advises on 3/32 because it is more compatible with existing chainwheels.
So, if your doing a proper converstion, why not use 1/8 chain? If you have the option to get some strong cranks and chainring?
Its lighter? Not by much, i dont think you can really tell the difference.
Its likely to run smoother if the chainline is less then perfect. So if your chainline is naff 3/32 might be better.
But theres no real difference between the two.

 

[Tel]

Whatever...

Right well I've managed to get it up and running as a fixie. Hardest part was re-spacing the wheel because the spacer under the freewheel was just one long piece so I had to have a dig about in the garage for the right amount of washers to achieve the same spacing, plus I put a couple of extra in to make sure I can do the q/r skewer up very tight, although I'd rather use a solid axle if anyone fancies donating one.

Also I'd like to put a lock ring on the sprocket but it turns out I didn't have a spare b/b lockring after all. So if anyone fancies donating one of them too that'd be lovely

Re-dishing the back wheel didn't go too bad but I did round off a couple of the nipples and had to resort to pliers! New ones on order though so I'll replace them and get the wheel running perfect then.

So the test ride. OMG! I didn't realise just how much I freewheel; when I start of, when I slow down, when I scoot, when I turn, etc, etc. It's gunna take some getting used to. Fine when its going but it's the maneuvering that raises issues also the back pedaling to slow down feels rather odd too.

I'm commuting to work on it tonight and for the rest of the week so hopefully by the end of the week I'll be getting used to the quirkiness...

 

[zzpza]

Good work. Lets see some pix!

M10 axle, spacers and track nuts...
http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shophub.html

 

[Tel]

Thanks for the link zzpza

Pix are to follow although everything is not as I want it to be yet...

 

[Tel]

Updated pics it's getting there. I want to lighten up the front end at the weekend; drill the forks to accept an old single pivot recess fitting brake and fit a bmx brake lever.

 

[zzpza]

looking good Tel. what's it ride like?

 

[Joe24]

Looks nice, what size chainring have you got on it?

 

[Tel]

Thanks guys.

It rides nice, getting used to the quirkiness of fixed quite quickly. Most noticeable is the silence of the transmission all I hear is the hum of the tyres, bliss. The fixed wheel also seems to maintain it's momentum as I ride, I understand the zen metaphors people spurt now.

Could do with some new tyres really and I'd like a longer seat post so that I can play a bit more with the height of the saddle it's over the limit as it is.

I've also removed the toe clips and straps so that I don't kill myself getting used to fixed. When I upgrade it will be to spd's.

I'm running a 36 chainring with a 14t sprocket which gives me a gear of around 68" with 28c tyres.

It doesn't really float my boat but I'm thinking that if his fix wheel thing goes well I'll change my 531c frame to fixed and buy a more modern geared bike. This is an ideal hack though.

I did take the long ride home from work today though

 

[Joe24]

Oh god, not the mention of the zen thing
Its not zen, its just how fixed wheel is. You can keep your momentum. As an old guy that used to ride fixed explained to someone on a club ride interested in fixed, its like a flywheel. You can keep the momentum going.
No mention of it being zen like.

 

[Tel]

lol Being an avid Martial Artist for the last 25 odd years Zen and philosophy is right up there with my other hobbies...