Puncture

[Davidc]

Hello mmace

The stuff in the tube isn't actually glue. It's a solvent. I've never seen a satisfactory description of how the repair works, but if you let the bit of the inner tube you've put the stuff on go nearly dry then put the patch on it'll usually work and last the original lifetime of the tube.

They don't work when:

The puncture's too close to the valve
It's anywhere near the seam
it's on the underside (caused by a spoke - 20 different ways for that to happen!)
It's repaired by the roadside in a hurry/ in the wet/ in the dark.

Most of us get into carrying one or two spare tubes and repairing the puncture at home. When you have the money I'd say buy yousrself a couple of tubes, shouldn't be more than a fiver, for roadside substitution, and always do repairs at leisure at home. They won't always work but many will.

 

[ColinJ]

And ... whether patching or replacing a tube - always try to find and remove the source of the puncture. It's usually a piece of glass, a flint or a thorn and they often get stuck in your tyre and lie in wait ready to puncture again. That's assuming it wasn't a snakebite (impact or pinch) puncture, or a tube seam/valve failure.

 

[JonnyBlade]

Do slime tubes work with high psi tyres? I'm sure I heard someone say that about about 100psi the slime is just forced out through the hole.

Shippers I use them on 700 23c on my road bike so yes, they do work. Bought mine in Halfords and was told keep the receipt if they stop work on insertion punctures they will replace it free of charge. Obviously if there is a large rip the games over but otherwise a pretty good deal

 

[Tynan]

seam is absolutely fine, I give it a bit more sandpaper aand press but it might work fine if done as normal

I tried Parks patches at the side of the road in the dark and wet, useless and again at home in the warm and dry where I washed the tube and did everythig under ideal conditions and they held for a few days and then developed a slow leak, nt worth it imho when the regular patches are rock solid

I used to patch road side until me eyes got dicey for close stuff, two tubes and patch at home now

 

[mmace]

cheers guys, puncture repaired, spare tubes and compact pump ordered (I had money in PayPal account)

thanks a lot

 

[aberal]

So how long did it take, in the end? And did you hurt yourself? I've found, as a general rule of thumb, that it's physically impossible to do maintenance work on your bike without hurting yourself.

 

[661-Pete]

I generally apply two coats of rubber solution. Wait for the first to go tacky (this generally takes about a minute at room temperature, but don't touch it to find out, just rely on the wait. It should no longer look wet). Then apply the second coat and once again wait till it goes tacky. Then patch.

I never seem to have trouble patching over the seam (or over embossed lettering), done it lots of times. You need to rub the tube with fine sandpaper before patching, this will normally take the 'edge' off any seam. And press the patch really firmly down.

Patching close to the valve, on the other hand, or close to another patch, usually doesn't work.

 

[Tynan]

why 2 coats

and I once had three patches overlapping ina clover leaf stylee, I can hand on heart say that it works for me just fine whenever I've tried it, using the reno patches, the outer surface is dimpled, I can only assume to allow purchase to a second patch

 

[661-Pete]

why 2 coats

and I once had three patches overlapping ina clover leaf stylee, I can hand on heart say that it works for me just fine whenever I've tried it, using the reno patches, the outer surface is dimpled, I can only assume to allow purchase to a second patch

Aha - this just shows that opinions vary!

I've always put on two coats as long as I can remember. The amount of solvent it 'wastes' is negligible - I often get a dried out tube of solvent, before it comes to an end, in any case. I think, many years ago, there was a fashion in a type of harder synthetic rubber that was less easy to soften in ordinary rubber solution, and two coats did the trick better than one. Possibly it's no longer necessary, but I still do it.

 

[Beethoven]

I had a puncture yesterday when out cycling.....patched it in about 25 mins (took wheel off) and rode off straight away. I cycled the 12 miles back home with no problems and the tyre was still firm this morning. The inner tube already has a patch from several months ago so I'd agree with the other guys, no need for a new tube just because of one puncture.

Word of warning though, seems obvious but make sure you inspect the tyre carefully before putting it back on because whatever caused the puncture might still be embedded in the tyre. Yesterday for me it was a small piece of glass, had I not spotted it and removed it, then I would have repunctured the tyre as soon as I had put the repaired tube back in.

ALWAYS carry a repair kit if going any distance. I got stranded miles from home last year with a puncture and no repair kit. I learned the hard way !!

 

[Simon_m]

bloody punctures. had one yesterday while out in Kent. Could I get the effing tyre off the rim, could i eff'. Fingers all cut up as the tool kept slipping and my fingers, knuckles etc cut into the spokes. Then it starts pooring with rain, 7miles from end of ride where the car was parked. Had to send other half back to pick up the car and rescue me. Took just under a hour to get the thing off and a new tube back in. Not happy.

 

[guitarpete247]

Any glue that is outside the area of the patch needs to be covered with talc. That little bit of hard chalk stuff you get in the P******e kit needs rubbing on the rough area on the back of your kit tin/box and the powder rubbed into the glue. This stops the tube sticking to the inside of the tyre and causing more problems.

The white cuboid block at the bottom left of this photo.

When I was a kid a mate and I went to Bridlington from Doncaster. Just outside Howden he had a p******e which we fixed. A few yards on and he got another then another. It turned out that even though he had a new bike the plastic tape inside the wheel that was to protect the tube from the spokes was in upside down and was slicing into his tube. Took us about 4 repairs before we spotted it.

 

[ColinJ]

Word of warning though, seems obvious but make sure you inspect the tyre carefully before putting it back on because whatever caused the puncture might still be embedded in the tyre. Yesterday for me it was a small piece of glass, had I not spotted it and removed it, then I would have repunctured the tyre as soon as I had put the repaired tube back in.

I quite agree, and I'd already said so!

And ... whether patching or replacing a tube - always try to find and remove the source of the puncture. It's usually a piece of glass, a flint or a thorn and they often get stuck in your tyre and lie in wait ready to puncture again. That's assuming it wasn't a snakebite (impact or pinch) puncture, or a tube seam/valve failure.

 

[summerdays]

And ... whether patching or replacing a tube - always try to find and remove the source of the puncture. It's usually a piece of glass, a flint or a thorn and they often get stuck in your tyre and lie in wait ready to puncture again. That's assuming it wasn't a snakebite (impact or pinch) puncture, or a tube seam/valve failure.

I agree - and to make it easier to find I usually mark where the valve is lined up against and direction of rotation. Then once I have found the hole I line it up with the tyre so I know where to look. However I did see someone recently suggest putting the tyre on the wheel with the writing lined up with the valve to do the same thing.

 

[potsy]

I agree - and to make it easier to find I usually mark where the valve is lined up against and direction of rotation. Then once I have found the hole I line it up with the tyre so I know where to look. However I did see someone recently suggest putting the tyre on the wheel with the writing lined up with the valve to do the same thing.

I always think this is a great idea, but I never remember to do it