Question about Sheldon's fender nuts

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Smokin Joe

Legendary Member
Looks like a single 6mm thread.
 

Foghat

Freight-train-groove-rider
Yes, M6 thread all the way through.

I prefer the Gilles Berthoud version, as the spanner flats enable tightening of the mudguard screws (M5 - but M6 at brake end) whilst simultaneously preventing the tightening action from rotating the brake. Tightening tends to rotate the mudguard bracket itself as well of course, so it helps if rotating the brake can be removed from the equation in the grappling and fine adjustment stakes.

The Gilles Berthoud version is a fair bit cheaper too, although perhaps not as shiny. and it comes in 9mm, 13mm, 19mm, 30mm lengths while the Sheldon nuts are 10mm, 13mm, 32mm.

In any case, I've found such nuts make the on-offing of mudguards when transporting bikes by car quite a lot less irritating than without them.

37772L30.jpg


tn_IMG_1013.jpg
 
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Foghat

Freight-train-groove-rider
Indeed.

Another benefit of the Sheldon/Berthoud nuts, when using centre-bolted rim brakes, is that they also place the mounting bracket quite a bit further back than mounting in front of the fork crown.

This rotates the mudguards backwards, putting the mudflap several cm nearer the ground and getting a bit more protection for the feet and drivetrain. Most front mudguards, except SKS Longboards, are far too short, so the nuts help mitigate that too.
 
OP
OP
BalkanExpress
Location
Brussels
many many thanks, most helpful @Foghat

I am actually interested not to fit mudguards but as a way of fitting old style nutted brakes to a more modern frame built for recessed fixings. If the Sheldon is a single 6mm thread it should allow the bolt to pass through but be screwed in, if you see what I mean.

As the Berthoud nuts are 6mm/5mm this will not work with them.
 
OP
OP
BalkanExpress
Location
Brussels
Update, the experiment failed:sad:

The threads on the callipers are too short to thread fully into the Sheldons.

All is not lost, I can use them for their intended purpose on another bike .
 

Foghat

Freight-train-groove-rider
As that experiment didn't work, you could try:
  • using the rear brake on the front, with a long recessed nut - make sure the diameter of the fork crown recess is sufficient all the way through for the long nut and enough thread engagement (remembering to swap the brake shoes over between right and left) and
  • using the front brake on the rear, by cutting the front brake's pivot bolt shorter and getting a thread cut into the unthreaded part (if that part is of sufficient diameter to take the right thread), plus a recessed nut of appropriate length for adequate thread engagement ( (again, remembering to swap the brake shoes over between right and left)
  • or keeping the existing front/rear brakes where they are and just extending the threads on each pivot bolt for adequate thread engagement (again, if the unthreaded parts are of sufficient diameter), and using the Sheldon nuts as planned
You'd need a cutting die for the thread-cutting, or to take the pivot bolts to someone who can do it for you.

Another option may be replacing the pivot bolts with shorter ones for recessed fittings, if they are available for your brakes.
 
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