Raleigh Pioneer Classic

[simon.r]

One of the wheels has been replaced, not sure which because the rear is 700c and the front is a 27.

I reckon neither is original if @SkipdiverJohn is right on the date, as the originals would have been steel rims.

 

[raleighnut]

I’m 99% sure the levers on mine are original and they’re identical to the one on the OP’s bike:

View attachment 514863

Those grips look original too, well they're the same as the ones on my Mustang before I changed the bars to Aluminium ones and fitted short 'dog leg' brake levers

 

[Little Butch]

You could be right! It came with a spare rear wheel which is the same make as the front which made me wonder if they were the originals. They're made by FIAMME...

Also, how would I measure/figure out the frame size?

 

[raleighnut]

You could be right! It came with a spare rear wheel which is the same make as the front which made me wonder if they were the originals. They're made by FIAMME...

Also, how would I measure/figure out the frame size?

Centre of Bottom bracket to centre of top tube along the seat tube was normal with the older bikes.

 

[simon.r]

Centre of Bottom bracket to centre of top tube along the seat tube was normal with the older bikes.

I agree, that’s normally the case, but @SkipdiverJohn said in another thread about the Pioneer, “Raleigh made them, the mens ones were available in 21", 23 1/2", and 25" sizes...”

If that’s the case (and I’ve no reason to doubt it) this particular model is measured centre of BB to top of seat tube. Not that there’s a massive difference.

Sorry, my pedantic side is coming out

 

[raleighnut]

I agree, that’s normally the case, but @SkipdiverJohn said in another thread about the Pioneer, “Raleigh made them, the mens ones were available in 21", 23 1/2", and 25" sizes...”

If that’s the case (and I’ve no reason to doubt it) this particular model is measured centre of BB to top of seat tube. Not that there’s a massive difference.

Sorry, my pedantic side is coming out

Maybe.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

The only way to confirm the year is to invert the thing and have a look under the gear cable guide on the bottom bracket. The number ought to be there, and I am reasonably confident it is 1990, although I am not going to bet my house on it....
No need to measure the frame size; from the length of the head tube it has to be a 23 1/2".

 

[Little Butch]

Slightly big for me then with my being 5ft 8 haha! I’ll get some new pads, fix the BB and use it to get some miles in.

The only way to confirm the year is to invert the thing and have a look under the gear cable guide on the bottom bracket. The number ought to be there, and I am reasonably confident it is 1990, although I am not going to bet my house on it....
No need to measure the frame size; from the length of the head tube it has to be a 23 1/2".

 

[biggs682]

Slightly big for me then with my being 5ft 8 haha! I’ll get some new pads, fix the BB and use it to get some miles in.

If it fits ride it

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

If it fits ride it

Sometimes, if you get given a bike or can pick something up locally for a silly cheap price, it can be worth taking a punt on a size you wouldn't actively go out looking for normally.
I'm just over 5' 11", and my ideal fit size is 23" or 23 1/2" - much smaller and I generally find the bars are too low and there's too much seatpost on display, which just looks wrong on steel road frames!
One day a couple of years ago, I spotted a nice 531 framed flat bar Raleigh for sale. There was no size mentioned in the advert blurb, but the photo looked like a "goldilocks" frame that at least might fit me, so I took a chance as it was only beer money anyway.


I ended up with a very nice 22 1/2" hybrid, which just needed the seat a bit higher and the bars up more, than I'd normally prefer. The reach was a tiny bit short but I mitigated it largely by moving the saddle back a bit on it's rails. Rides very nicely. Wouldn't have actively sought out one listed as that size, but it was in the right place at the right money.
If you get one the wrong size and it wasn't overpriced, you should be able to move it on at no loss if needs be, and replace it with something else that fits better. Apart from a bit of messing around, you are unlikely to be much, if anything, out of pocket.

 

[Badger_Boom]

I volunteer at a community bike workshop renovating and selling on old donated bikes.

Over the years there is no doubt that the Pioneer is the bike we have had in most frequently. It's a good, well built workhorse and we rarely have any problem getting them back in good working order, nor selling them on.

It must have been Raleigh's most popular model over the past 30 years.

It’s good to know they normally find good homes. We donated this one to our local community workshop last week. My partner bought it in about ‘95 but after a long break fancied something lighter and a bit more modern. Having read this we’re wondering if we made a mistake.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I am not of the opinion that the current generation of hybrids offer anything that you don't get from a decent quality one from the 90's or even late 80's as with my Raleigh Gemini 18.
The Pioneer range encompassed quite a broad spread of specs from the very basic ones with steel wheels and six gears to the top end models with Reynolds cro-moly frames and 21 speeds. There was a model available to suit every budget and every level of cycling interest, which explains why they were sold in such massive numbers and why they are still so common 30 years later.
The multi-colour early 90's paint schemes aren't to everyone's taste (I much prefer the later single colour paint) but the bikes are sound workhorses irrespective of appearance. There will always be a space in my bike shed for at least one lugged steel example. They are just too versatile not to own one, no matter what other machinery I also have the use of.

 

[Paulus]

I am not of the opinion that the current generation of hybrids offer anything that you don't get from a decent quality one from the 90's or even late 80's as with my Raleigh Gemini 18.
The Pioneer range encompassed quite a broad spread of specs from the very basic ones with steel wheels and six gears to the top end models with Reynolds cro-moly frames and 21 speeds. There was a model available to suit every budget and every level of cycling interest, which explains why they were sold in such massive numbers and why they are still so common 30 years later.
The multi-colour early 90's paint schemes aren't to everyone's taste (I much prefer the later single colour paint) but the bikes are sound workhorses irrespective of appearance. There will always be a space in my bike shed for at least one lugged steel example. They are just too versatile not to own one, no matter what other machinery I also have the use of.

Back in the 1990's I bought a 10 speed Pioneer Commuter, dark blue was the colour. It was a very good bike, cro-moloy frame, it did everything i wanted to do, including some longish trips to Brighton and Cambridge from North London.

 

[249ccjames]

I understand this is quite an old thread now but I'm new and looking for information about my Raleigh Pioneer. I have all sorts of codes, including the serial number, and would appreciate a steer on establishing age and salient points for a sale. It's a real lightweight but I need to be 2 inches shorter.

 

[Cycleops]

Let’s see some pics then @249ccjames

to the forum

You could always start a new thread if you want.