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DCLane
Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
@Little Butch has bought one in April as well: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/raleigh-pioneer-classic.259616/
I'd go with 1990. Looks to be in OK condition.
I'd go with 1990. Looks to be in OK condition.
Calling @SkipdiverJohn
Cycleops
Legendary Member
There are quite a few threads on here about the Pioneer, this one is running currently: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/raleigh-pioneer-classic.263341/
you can use the search bar to find others.
you can use the search bar to find others.
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
No rest for the wicked is there? Not even on a Sunday morning.
It's the same type as the one mentioned in the other thread, another early example from around 1990. Several of these caliper braked models seem to have surfaced over the last few months, Raleigh must have been selling them by the shed load. Loads seem to have survived, quite possibly because of the kind of customer who tended to buy them.
They're no lightweights, but the frames have decent geometry and give a good ride. Steel is plain-gauge 18-23 hi-tensile, which was the standard mass-production frame material used for decades. Perfectly practical for general leisure/utility cycling and could easily be used for touring with a decent rack. I actually had a frame failure on one of these, on the O/S chainstay at the dropout. That's unusual for steel, but the one I built up was very battered and scruffy, so it might have just been a case of a freak bad frame that had also suffered a lot of abuse. You don't tend to hear much about frame failures on steel Pioneers, so I think it's safe to assume mine was the exception to the rule. The versions with steel wheels are heavier and don't stop so well in the wet, so if you have one of these, ride it appropriately and try your brakes in good time, not right at the last minute!
Mechanically, they seem to have been largely based on then-current MTB stuff as they have similar mechs and shifters to Raleigh MTB's of the same era. Given some regular lubrication, these bikes can be kept on the road for peanuts in maintenance costs, which is one of the reasons I like them. They tended to fetch very low prices pre-corona anyway, and don't seem too popular with bike thieves because of this.
If this one has the extra wide handlebars - over 26", they are a real nuisance for traffic riding and getting through barriers on cycle paths, so it's a good move to trim them down to 23" wide, which makes a big difference but still leaves room for the brakes and shifters. Later ones were 24 1/2" wide, which is still more that ideal.
OP
OP
Wookee
Well-Known Member
Had a couple of hours to fettle and fit today and generally check it over. Didn't go quite as well as it could have! Pumped the tyres up to the middle of the recommended pressure range, but when I turned my back for a minute the rear tube blew out. Went off like a gunshot and made me jump about a foot!!
Took the wheel off to fit a new tube and took the chance to rub the brake pads lightly with sand paper to get rid of any glazing. New tube in, saddle height sorted, bars adjusted for reach so time for a little test ride around my road. 2 minutes later and a second rear end explosion when braking
. This time the tyre was blown straight off the rim. My first thought was that I had missed something in the rim but then found the true cause.
It seems 30 year old brake blocks can fall off after a light sanding
... 4 more ordered, and some more tubes. Fortunately I have a spare tyre as the one that was on it is now landfill material.
Took the wheel off to fit a new tube and took the chance to rub the brake pads lightly with sand paper to get rid of any glazing. New tube in, saddle height sorted, bars adjusted for reach so time for a little test ride around my road. 2 minutes later and a second rear end explosion when braking
. This time the tyre was blown straight off the rim. My first thought was that I had missed something in the rim but then found the true cause.It seems 30 year old brake blocks can fall off after a light sanding
... 4 more ordered, and some more tubes. Fortunately I have a spare tyre as the one that was on it is now landfill material.
Drago
Legendary Member
They were a good seller in the early 90's. Hybrids, or city bikes as they were first called, were a fairly new marketing niche and for a few years the public gobbled them up. By pure luck the Pioneer was a decent ride for the money, and the range was latterly expanded to include 501 frames as well.
OP
OP
Wookee
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the comprehensive response. It has 25 inch bars which are the same as my favourite bike so I'll be leaving them as is. It has a 6 speed 14-28 cassette and a 50/40 chain ring which would need to change if I was going to tour on it methinks, but perfectly fine for my current plans. I need to get the seat moved back a touch then it'll be perfect.No rest for the wicked is there? Not even on a Sunday morning.
It's the same type as the one mentioned in the other thread, another early example from around 1990. Several of these caliper braked models seem to have surfaced over the last few months, Raleigh must have been selling them by the shed load. Loads seem to have survived, quite possibly because of the kind of customer who tended to buy them.
They're no lightweights, but the frames have decent geometry and give a good ride. Steel is plain-gauge 18-23 hi-tensile, which was the standard mass-production frame material used for decades. Perfectly practical for general leisure/utility cycling and could easily be used for touring with a decent rack. I actually had a frame failure on one of these, on the O/S chainstay at the dropout. That's unusual for steel, but the one I built up was very battered and scruffy, so it might have just been a case of a freak bad frame that had also suffered a lot of abuse. You don't tend to hear much about frame failures on steel Pioneers, so I think it's safe to assume mine was the exception to the rule. The versions with steel wheels are heavier and don't stop so well in the wet, so if you have one of these, ride it appropriately and try your brakes in good time, not right at the last minute!
Mechanically, they seem to have been largely based on then-current MTB stuff as they have similar mechs and shifters to Raleigh MTB's of the same era. Given some regular lubrication, these bikes can be kept on the road for peanuts in maintenance costs, which is one of the reasons I like them. They tended to fetch very low prices pre-corona anyway, and don't seem too popular with bike thieves because of this.
If this one has the extra wide handlebars - over 26", they are a real nuisance for traffic riding and getting through barriers on cycle paths, so it's a good move to trim them down to 23" wide, which makes a big difference but still leaves room for the brakes and shifters. Later ones were 24 1/2" wide, which is still more that ideal.
Having a closer look at it, the hubs are Sachs Maillard 6V 27 9, does this date them to 1991 or is that just a coincidence?
The hubs, BB, seatpost and stem are all in lovely shape...just got to sort the brakes and tyres.
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
The hubs do suggest a 1991 date, and Raleigh did use those Maillards, so the wheels could well be original. When I suggested 1990, it was an approximation based on appearance. Check your frame number to be sure, not the seat tube sticker. My Pioneer that cracked it's frame, was a '91 build from the frame number on the BB, and had canti brakes, but it's quite possible that calipers were fitted until mid-91 and changed later that year. I've since replaced the failed frame by a more modern one, from c.1992, which is also canti-braked but has a lower standover height although still 23 1/2".
The 40/50 chainrings and 14-28 freewheel are the same as my new hack Pioneer, and I find the gearing fine for utility use. I wouldn't want to carry a heavy load with that gearing, but I have other, triple-equipped bikes.
@Drago, even the early multi-colour Pioneers had a 501 option - although you won't come across many. Later single-colour frames in 501 aren't plentiful either. Most customers seem to have settled for 18-23 and saved the extra cash! My 501 frame rides very well, but I doubt the weight saving over 18-23 is more than about half a pound
The 40/50 chainrings and 14-28 freewheel are the same as my new hack Pioneer, and I find the gearing fine for utility use. I wouldn't want to carry a heavy load with that gearing, but I have other, triple-equipped bikes.
@Drago, even the early multi-colour Pioneers had a 501 option - although you won't come across many. Later single-colour frames in 501 aren't plentiful either. Most customers seem to have settled for 18-23 and saved the extra cash! My 501 frame rides very well, but I doubt the weight saving over 18-23 is more than about half a pound
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
Yes, the first digit of the frame number is a year identifier. Strictly speaking it just indicates the build year ended in a 1, but since the Pioneer was not in production in 1981, and lugged frames were not still being made in 2001, then by elimination the only year it can be is 1991.
OP
OP
Wookee
Well-Known Member
Thanks SDJ
