Raleigh record ace

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Jeremyf

Regular
Headset will be 1" ISO standard 24 tpi if the frame is 1982. Do you mean the threads on the fork steerer are stripped?
Yes 1982 so thanks. It's just the top mm of the fork threading that is sad. Perhaps the word is they are squashed. Hope not insuperable.
 

midlife

Guru
If all else fails buy a smaller stack height headset and you don't need the topmost threads, sounds like it just needs chasing :smile:
 
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Jeremyf

Regular
If all else fails buy a smaller stack height headset and you don't need the topmost threads, sounds like it just needs chasing :smile:
Fingers crossed you are right that the threads can be chased but will find a mechanic who knows what he's doing. A bit out of my depth. Many thanks
 
What make is the seat post ? I have had a few days of fun trying to free an SR one out of a frame. I eventually gave up and tried to cut a segment out length wise, it eventually freed up enough to pull it out.
I also have a Record Ace and find that it is a really nice bike to ride .
Good luck with your project .
 
OP
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Jeremyf

Regular
What make is the seat post ? I have had a few days of fun trying to free an SR one out of a frame. I eventually gave up and tried to cut a segment out length wise, it eventually freed up enough to pull it out.
I also have a Record Ace and find that it is a really nice bike to ride .
Good luck with your project .
Not a clue! It is unbranded. In time will cut it out doing what you did. Life is too short to mess around. As an ex chemistry guy ammoniacal cleaning stuff dripped in (forever!!) could be an approach. At least I could understand dissolving the aluminium oxide as a way forward. Brute force did not work. take care
 
OP
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Jeremyf

Regular
What make is the seat post ? I have had a few days of fun trying to free an SR one out of a frame. I eventually gave up and tried to cut a segment out length wise, it eventually freed up enough to pull it out.
I also have a Record Ace and find that it is a really nice bike to ride .
Good luck with your project .
Oh and I love my RRA
 
OP
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Jeremyf

Regular
Well a morning running around in the sun. Nearest shop freed the fork but no tool. All modern. Sent me to a very retro place in a local town. A real blast from the past. Still no tool. He set to with a wire brush! and I think cleared enough debris for everything to wind down. Ordered a cup closing gizmo. Duh never one.
With luck only the BB refit to worry about.
 

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OP
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Jeremyf

Regular
Well a morning running around in the sun. Nearest shop freed the fork but no tool. All modern. Sent me to a very retro place in a local town. A real blast from the past. Still no tool. He set to with a wire brush! and I think cleared enough debris for everything to wind down. Ordered a cup closing gizmo. Duh never one.
With luck only the BB refit to worry about.
Well success so far fork installed. Slight delay while I bought a cheapo stand. Appears to do the job though.
Bottom bracket (Shimano 110mm sealed) is a little tight but I think/hope threading OK. Assume some muck and stray enamel. Did not tighten down! Gets too hot here in Spain so tomorrow will clean out with brush. Any do's and don'ts from anyone?
 

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OP
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Jeremyf

Regular
What make is the seat post ? I have had a few days of fun trying to free an SR one out of a frame. I eventually gave up and tried to cut a segment out length wise, it eventually freed up enough to pull it out.
I also have a Record Ace and find that it is a really nice bike to ride .
Good luck with your project .
Apologies indeed the seat post is SR Pandane(?)
 
OP
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Jeremyf

Regular
Well that was a close call. BB tightness was down to the paint enamel but pushed on. Bloody thing wanted to cross thread on the RHS. After a lengthy sulk went back this evening. Still 31C. Cut out the paint from the threads and reset the BB still tried to cross thread. Aligned the BB as best I could with magnifiers and put some torque on. A bit tight and then Eureka everything went smooth. Job done!!!!
 
Well that was a close call. BB tightness was down to the paint enamel but pushed on. Bloody thing wanted to cross thread on the RHS. After a lengthy sulk went back this evening. Still 31C. Cut out the paint from the threads and reset the BB still tried to cross thread. Aligned the BB as best I could with magnifiers and put some torque on. A bit tight and then Eureka everything went smooth. Job done!!!!
The BB on my Flying Scot kept on cross threading. In the end I put the non drive side in first which helped the cartridge to line up and allow the cup to screw in correctly .
I hope that your seat post is less trouble than mine . I tried all sorts of solutions, caustic soda ,rust removing liquid and electrolysis. I eventually cut the top off and put hacksaw cuts down the length of the post . It was hard work trying to get right to the end of the post and cut right through the inner wall of the frame . The post eventually moved inside the frame so I had to drill and fit self tapping screws so that I could pull it out . The post once out had a nasty area of corrosion on it .
 
OP
OP
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Jeremyf

Regular
The BB on my Flying Scot kept on cross threading. In the end I put the non drive side in first which helped the cartridge to line up and allow the cup to screw in correctly .
I hope that your seat post is less trouble than mine . I tried all sorts of solutions, caustic soda ,rust removing liquid and electrolysis. I eventually cut the top off and put hacksaw cuts down the length of the post . It was hard work trying to get right to the end of the post and cut right through the inner wall of the frame . The post eventually moved inside the frame so I had to drill and fit self tapping screws so that I could pull it out . The post once out had a nasty area of corrosion on it .
We are like minded put the non drive LHS in first with a view to it being a guide. The BB is old and paint from the re-enamelling didn't work out when I attempted to put the unit back in. In hindsight should have properly cleaned out the threads a lesson I will stress in a final write up. The gods were on my side so that is behind now. I will put the saddle back on and just ride. Once the down stem shift was was no matter, but a learning curve again.
To repeat myself ammoniacal solution dripping into the seat post should work in theory as it dissolves the Al oxide. Ultimately will test that out for a laugh, but take a breath!!
 

Pedal pusher

Veteran
Location
Alloa
The clean up has started. Lovely job with the re-enamelling.
Starting from the ground up. Mavic alloy rims cleaned of most of the grey using Mother's. Good but a second going over necessary to remove last of the small black pits.
Question should I attempt to polish/ clean with a drill attachment for best finish?
Sorry what is Mothers ?
 

Peugeotrider

Well-Known Member
Location
Northern Ireland
I'd get some penetrating oil down the seat post frame tube and turn the bike upside down for a few days.
Seat post then into a vise and use the frame to turn from side to side and cross the fingers
 
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