Raleigh Roadster restoration advice sought

[porteous]

Porteous thank you for the really useful information, I do have an old fashioned bike spanner which I have now tried after you posted your message. Unfortunately I can't get the BB to budge to make matters worse I have broken my spanner. Tomorrow I may try one of my local bike shops, not the one I tried earlier today as I think they were trying it on with me. Question for you, it may seem an odd one, I'm planning to have the frame painted as the frame has lost too much paint, is it important to have the BB removed for a respray?
I have never seen www.vintagecyclecomponents.co.uk before, from looking at the website it says the rims are from India, do you have any idea of the quality of the rims compared to what is available here. I was in India last year (hence my avatar shot), lots of old bikes being used although I didn't really get close up to one.

Regarding the bashed in BB, the BB was like that 20 years ago when I bought it, I have never really had the urge to go anywhere near it until recently.

Thanks again for the web links and the excellent advice.

Tony

Hi Tony;
India is still a bicycle borne country, and a lot of their cycle products are not at all bad, They also make lots of old fashioned bicycles like yours. The ones you saw could have been made the month before (but they do use stuff for ever),

There is no problem with leaving the BB in for a respray, the sprayer can mask it, but it is probably worth stripping it and renewing grease and bearing balls. I would soak the bits you can see in diesel oil or penetrating oil for a few days then try a C spanner again. I find a firm tap with a hammer usually gets it going. failing that any good LBS should do the job quickly and cheaply.

 

[porteous]

Hi Tony;
India is still a bicycle borne country, and a lot of their cycle products are not at all bad, They also make lots of old fashioned bicycles like yours. The ones you saw could have been made the month before (but they do use stuff for ever),

There is no problem with leaving the BB in for a respray, the sprayer can mask it, but it is probably worth stripping it and renewing grease and bearing balls. I would soak the bits you can see in diesel oil or penetrating oil for a few days then try a C spanner again. I find a firm tap with a hammer usually gets it going. failing that any good LBS should do the job quickly and cheaply.

Does the BB housing have an oiler in the top somewhere? Lots did. If so you can dribble diesel or penetrating oil in to free everything off.

 

[Sterba]

Get a large pipe wrench on the locknut, don't bother with those silly C-spanners, they don't have enough leverage.

 

[Tonee62]

Does the BB housing have an oiler in the top somewhere? Lots did. If so you can dribble diesel or penetrating oil in to free everything off.

Porteous, yes point taken on the BB, sounds a good idea to remove it then renew grease and new ball bearings....shudder to think when it was last done.

I have just poured a fair bit of diesel down the tube (twice), came seeping out of the BB nice and slowly. Tomorrow morning I'll take the frame to a LBS and ask if they can loosen the BB, its an oldish raleigh shop they tend to be quite helpful, hope they can sort me out.

 

[porteous]

Good Luck, I am sure you can sort it out with no real problems.

 

[EltonFrog]

As far as respray goes I know Mercian will do a complete strip and respray with original looking decals, rebuild the bottom bracket and headset. It won't be cheap mind, around £300 but they will do a lovely job, better than original show room condition.

Don't ask me how I know.

 

[EltonFrog]

@Tonee62 no frames were done by my local bead blaster and powder coating people

@biggs682 Where did you get this done?

 

[Tonee62]

As far as respray goes I know Mercian will do a complete strip and respray with original looking decals, rebuild the bottom bracket and headset. It won't be cheap mind, around £300 but they will do a lovely job, better than original show room condition.

Don't ask me how I know.

That is interesting but rather pricey for me, good to know there are people offering a quality service like that.

 

[Gravity Aided]

Might check with an auto body shop and see if they can work your bike in, when some other auto is being painted the same color. Powder coating just isn't the same as a good coat of paint. It can chip, it can get into the threads of the BB when put on, if not masked properly. Rust and oxidation can start again under it. A well prepared and cleaned frame can hold paint quite well for a long time, and with care, you will not have this problem again. The very best of luck with your restoration. Good job on preserving this fine bicycle.

 

[Tonee62]

My LBS has managed to remove most of the BB, they were unable to remove the cover plate on the drive side of the frame. It appears to be on very securely, the chap in the LBS advised to leave it as it is and mask over for the paint job. Just wondering what the best option with a respray would be regarding the frame being cleaned. Would it be best if I cleaned the frame myself, remove the paint then degrease or should I just take the frame as it is and have it bead blasted then resprayed.

 

[Gravity Aided]

I should think bead blasting. Other bicycles, with very thin steel, I would chemically strip. Yours should have quite thick steel for the matter of bead blasting. Cleaning and degreasing a frame is a lot of work, and may not give a better result, IMHO. I would consult with those doing the work, though, and see what they think as well. Theirs is a most important opinion in this.

 

[Tony Smith]

It can only be bead blasted really., if you don't wish to spoil its integrity. As has been said, a word with your local auto body shop (or a mobile chips away type) gives you a wide choice of colours and finishes which, after plenty of clearcoat, can look a million dollars

 

[Tonee62]

I should think bead blasting. Other bicycles, with very thin steel, I would chemically strip. Yours should have quite thick steel for the matter of bead blasting. Cleaning and degreasing a frame is a lot of work, and may not give a better result, IMHO. I would consult with those doing the work, though, and see what they think as well. Theirs is a most important opinion in this.

Hayseed, I see what you mean about the thickness of steel on an old roadster frame although the rear tubes running down from the seat appear to be a bit thinner as they bolt on to to the frame, the thickness of the steel is not as dense as the tubes on the main frame. Do you think they would be ok for bead blasting. What would you advise for the chain cover, mine is the hockey stick style, would that be ok for bead blasting. I would like the frame to be resprayed in a black paint, is there a particular type of paint or shade of black I should be looking for? Are the colours which Raleigh used coded by any chance?

 

[Gravity Aided]

I think your choice of black is a good one. Black is just that, no shades to it. I should think the whole bike would be fine for bead blasting, but I suggest asking the shop where you will have this done, as they will have a higher level of expertise. They may recommend walnut shell blasting on the thinner metal, but I defer to their judgement. I would suggest a black gloss auto paint . I believe that would be an enamel. Henry Ford favored this type of paint for the Model T because it dried a little faster, and a little faster adds up when you are painting many many cars per week. The paint will then have to dry thoroughly. This is part of why I recommend an auto painter. They may have a parts oven or other apparatus for raising the dry heat and ambient temperature of the frame to 175 f for a few hours to dry and cure the paint. Otherwise, they will have recommendations for the care and treatment of the frame, and when you can put the parts back on and ride it.

 

[Gravity Aided]

P.S. I am Gravity Aided, and not Hayseed. Hayseed is my hereditary title among the landed gentry. Above a rube, but below a squire.