Raleigh Roadster restoration advice sought

[EltonFrog]

That is interesting but rather pricey for me, good to know there are people offering a quality service like that.

To give you some idea of what I mean.

Before:

After:

 

[Tonee62]

I think your choice of black is a good one. Black is just that, no shades to it. I should think the whole bike would be fine for bead blasting, but I suggest asking the shop where you will have this done, as they will have a higher level of expertise. They may recommend walnut shell blasting on the thinner metal, but I defer to their judgement. I would suggest a black gloss auto paint . I believe that would be an enamel. Henry Ford favored this type of paint for the Model T because it dried a little faster, and a little faster adds up when you are painting many many cars per week. The paint will then have to dry thoroughly. This is part of why I recommend an auto painter. They may have a parts oven or other apparatus for raising the dry heat and ambient temperature of the frame to 175 f for a few hours to dry and cure the paint. Otherwise, they will have recommendations for the care and treatment of the frame, and when you can put the parts back on and ride it.

Gravity Aided, Apologies on getting your name wrong. Thanks for the advice, I would be lost without help from people on this forum, it really is much appreciated. My next task is to locate where I can get the frame sprayed. If anybody reading this knows of an decent auto sprayer in the Stockport/ Manchester area where I could take the frame it would be much appreciated.
When I take the frame to be bead blastered and sprayed, is there anything I should do to the frame in preparation.

 

[Tonee62]

To give you some idea of what I mean.

Before:

View attachment 28448

After:

View attachment 28446 View attachment 28447

Considering how that frame used to look, it now looks absolutley lovely....very nice

 

[Gravity Aided]

Remove everything, including headset cups, which your LBS will have a tool for, called a rocket tool. Looks sinister. Otherwise, ask the body shop, when you find one, because they all have their little quirks. You may also inquire at the LBS to see if they know of someone who can do this, they may have a favorite. Remove all removables, including bottom bracket and headset bearing cups. This will give you a bare metal frame for the clearing work. Make sure the threads for the bottom bracket get masked off, if that is called for. Much of this is up to the process your local painter prefers. If you are going to do new decals for this, let them know. They will probably have you do that, then take the frame back for a couple of rounds of clear coat. When I mix clear coat, I put a very little of the paint color in as well, gives the first couple of coats of clear coat depth. Then I finish totally clear. There will be sanding and handwork between coats. This is an exacting process. You get what you pay for. Look at CarlIP's post above. Now that is a fine bit of restoration. You may find Mercian the best option.

 

[Tonee62]

Remove everything, including headset cups, which your LBS will have a tool for, called a rocket tool. Looks sinister. Otherwise, ask the body shop, when you find one, because they all have their little quirks. You may also inquire at the LBS to see if they know of someone who can do this, they may have a favorite. Remove all removables, including bottom bracket and headset bearing cups. This will give you a bare metal frame for the clearing work. Make sure the threads for the bottom bracket get masked off, if that is called for. Much of this is up to the process your local painter prefers. If you are going to do new decals for this, let them know. They will probably have you do that, then take the frame back for a couple of rounds of clear coat. When I mix clear coat, I put a very little of the paint color in as well, gives the first couple of coats of clear coat depth. Then I finish totally clear. There will be sanding and handwork between coats. This is an exacting process. You get what you pay for. Look at CarlIP's post above. Now that is a fine bit of restoration. You may find Mercian the best option.

My LBS managed to get the bottom bracket removed, charged me a fiver. Another so called bike shop wanted between £30 - £50 depending on how much time it would take....nice ehh.
I did check with my LBS about where to take the frame for a respray but they weren't too sure. I had wondered about the headset bearing cups, the upper one screws off easy enough. I'll need to arrange for the lower one to be removed. How do I mask off the threads for the bottom bracket, is it just a case of applying some masking tape over the thread? I will be wanting to put decals on the frame, I would like to get the bike looking as original as possible. The thought of using Mercian as CarlP recommended is starting to look quite appealing, his Dawes Kingpin really does look good.

 

[EltonFrog]

The kingpin does look really good, I hope to have the bike put back together soon, so I'll post pics up when its done. As I said before that paint job was not cheap.

It maybe that a powder coat job would be good enough, I've seen some nice results with powder coating. I'm going to give it a try for my next project.

 

[Gravity Aided]

When you come down to it, having a factory do a repaint seems like a cost effective solution, compared to the alternatives. I was able to come into a nice auto detail gun and compressor at a sale for little money. I'm still learning and remembering a lot of nuances from back when, seeing shade tree mechanics do these things in informal style and setting. But you have to consider it will take you time to find an auto paint shop, time to prep the frame for blasting, and time to and fro with decaling. Or drop 300quid on the project and have a great looking frame painted by Mercian. Powder coating is not a panacea. It is like ceramic coating, or like DuPont Imron. Prone to some chipping, and water can get under the surface at the chips and spread rust under the frame. And it is thicker, so you lose some frame detail, from what I have seen. Look at some powder coating jobs and see what you think. Try to see who did the job as well, so you can go to them and say you have seen an example of their work

 

[Sterba]

For me, powder coating, although cheap. was a waste of money. The frame quickly corroded and rust came straight throughthe powder coating, making the surface lumpy and much worse than before I started. Even a cheap respray would have been much better.

 

[Tonee62]

When you come down to it, having a factory do a repaint seems like a cost effective solution, compared to the alternatives. I was able to come into a nice auto detail gun and compressor at a sale for little money. I'm still learning and remembering a lot of nuances from back when, seeing shade tree mechanics do these things in informal style and setting. But you have to consider it will take you time to find an auto paint shop, time to prep the frame for blasting, and time to and fro with decaling. Or drop 300quid on the project and have a great looking frame painted by Mercian. Powder coating is not a panacea. It is like ceramic coating, or like DuPont Imron. Prone to some chipping, and water can get under the surface at the chips and spread rust under the frame. And it is thicker, so you lose some frame detail, from what I have seen. Look at some powder coating jobs and see what you think. Try to see who did the job as well, so you can go to them and say you have seen an example of their work

What you're saying about a factory repainting the frame is now making a lot of sense and I'm seriously considering it, as I'm having reservations about powder coating. Your comments aren't
the first I've read warning about the cons of powder coating. The thought of sending my frame to Mercian or somebody similar is very tempting, knowing they could transform the frame to what it used to be is hard to resist. Apart from the cost which could be just about do-able for me, my other concern would be bike parts. Most of the original parts I have are rather past their sell by date, I'm looking for quite a few parts, rear wheel being my main concern. The original wheel 28" 40 hole 3 speed dyno-hub has flat spots and has lost a fair bit of chrome. Looks to me as though I need a new wheel or rim and the wheel rebuilt. The chrome on the handle bars is going too, totally gone on the brake handles. The ram rod brakes are in poor condition, so I probably need a new set. I no longer have any mud guards as they have long rusted away, so I'm also in the market for a pair of those. I still have the Brookes sprung leather saddle, a big meaty effort with wonderful chrome springs. The leather needs restoring as it now looks a bit shabby, hopefully that can be sorted. So in one sense I know I could get the frame rennovated but its also a question of picking up the parts I need. Knowing that I need quite a few parts would you advise I push ahead and get the frame repainted.

In a rather odd way as much as I like to ride an old bike, I do have an 1982 Raleigh Superbe with cotterless crank which is in very good condition. The only drawback being the bike is too small for me. I think its a 23" frame, when I bought it I convinced myself the frame was the right size for me.....wasn't the case I'm afraid, legs are too long. So I have two bikes, my favourite the roadster (DL1 I think) really is in need of serious renovation, the other bike a Superbe great condition but too small. I'm sure there's some sort of irony there.

 

[Tonee62]

For me, powder coating, although cheap. was a waste of money. The frame quickly corroded and rust came straight throughthe powder coating, making the surface lumpy and much worse than before I started. Even a cheap respray would have been much better.

Now that is interesting to know, a week ago I was all for powder coating, now I'm not convinced.

 

[Gravity Aided]

Luckily, you probably have a great supply of those parts in Britain, Also, India and China are still using rod brakes, or at least still offering replacement parts. I believe Westwood still makes 28" rims as well.

 

[Tonee62]

Luckily, you probably have a great supply of those parts in Britain, Also, India and China are still using rod brakes, or at least still offering replacement parts. I believe Westwood still makes 28" rims as well.

True enough some parts seem to be available in the UK but I wouldn't say all. Ebay tends to have parts available but I think its a bit hit and miss, parts for vintage bikes have gone up in value.
Westwood rims are still available, I'm after a 28" 40 hole, had my chance last week but I slipped up. The site which was advertising them doesn't seem to have any left.

 

[Gravity Aided]

TI Cycles I think makes Hercules and BSA(India) . Might be worth a look.

 

[tyred]

Try and save as many of the original parts as you can as the Indian made replacements are often poor quality in my experience.

 

[Tonee62]

Try and save as many of the original parts as you can as the Indian made replacements are often poor quality in my experience.

Hi Tyred, What would you advise for the ram rods, they have lost a lot of chrome. The handle bars have lost chrome too on the levers.