OP
OP
hopless500
Trundling along
- Location
- not-as-flat-as-you-think Norfolk
That is very true!
For all I know Mr Hop has one of these. But I can't say I've ever seen one.
Raleigh Wisp
- Thread starter hopless500
- Start date
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For all I know Mr Hop has one of these. But I can't say I've ever seen one.
OP
OP
hopless500
Trundling along
- Location
- not-as-flat-as-you-think Norfolk
Front brakes now perfectly centred 
Found that the smallest socket in my set fit exactly
Found that the smallest socket in my set fit exactly
Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
And you were sure you didn't ask a question about having a baby.What is that???
Seriously the third hand holds the brake blocks together whilst one hand holds the pliers pulling the cable tight and the other tightens the nut securing it. Geddit!
OP
OP
hopless500
Trundling along
- Location
- not-as-flat-as-you-think Norfolk
Forgot to say, I do like your 'springy thing' and 'sockety thing' - language I fully understand and utilise
OP
OP
hopless500
Trundling along
- Location
- not-as-flat-as-you-think Norfolk
As you're all being very lovely and helpful, I have another question. Probably one of many as I go along...
I am assuming that the rear wheel (I suppose front wheel too for that matter) should be completely in the .. um, is it rear dropout? The curved bit the wheel pushes into. It currently is not all the way in. I investigated briefly and I'm not even sure at this point that the wheel would go all the way in....
I guess tomorrow's wee job will be taking the whole lot off the back, praying furiously, and reassembling (hopefully in the right order).
I am assuming that the rear wheel (I suppose front wheel too for that matter) should be completely in the .. um, is it rear dropout? The curved bit the wheel pushes into. It currently is not all the way in. I investigated briefly and I'm not even sure at this point that the wheel would go all the way in....
I guess tomorrow's wee job will be taking the whole lot off the back, praying furiously, and reassembling (hopefully in the right order).
Dogtrousers
Kilometre nibbler
In the rear dropout on the drive side will probably be the "claw" bit of the rear mech. This has a U shaped bit that the axle goes into that actually sits a bit forward of the very rear of the dropout itself. So the axle goes right to the back of this, but on the non drive side is about 5mm or so forward of the very back of the dropout. Does that make sense?
OP
OP
hopless500
Trundling along
- Location
- not-as-flat-as-you-think Norfolk
mjr
Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
- Location
- mostly Norfolk, sometimes Somerset
Don't worry about it too much as long as the wheel is secure, doesn't rub anything and is in a straight front-back line, while the chain is taut enough.
Dogtrousers
Kilometre nibbler
PS There are pictures to show what I mean here.
http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_aa-l.html#adaptor
He talks about an "adaptor claw" but on mechs like 1970s/80s Hurets etc the claw is actually an integral part of the mech. So the claw brings the rear of the dropout forward a bit. So tighten the drive side nut first, with the axle snug against the claw, and then make sure the wheel is centred between the stays and tighten the non drive side one.
http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_aa-l.html#adaptor
He talks about an "adaptor claw" but on mechs like 1970s/80s Hurets etc the claw is actually an integral part of the mech. So the claw brings the rear of the dropout forward a bit. So tighten the drive side nut first, with the axle snug against the claw, and then make sure the wheel is centred between the stays and tighten the non drive side one.
OP
OP
hopless500
Trundling along
- Location
- not-as-flat-as-you-think Norfolk
Tomorrow could be interesting 
- Location
- Glasgow
Thanks for posting this @hopless500 I'm following with interest.
And thanks to all that have helped, I often wondered about the rear dropout thing
And thanks to all that have helped, I often wondered about the rear dropout thing
OP
OP
hopless500
Trundling along
- Location
- not-as-flat-as-you-think Norfolk
Postponed until tomorrow. New seat post and clamp sorted today. Tomorrow I can't get into most of the house once I've put the final coat of varnish in the hall floor...so i shall then be making the attempt 
I may be some time and it might result in a frame surrounded by miscellaneous bike bits.
edit//kind of ran out of time cos i fixed my sewing machine instead
I may be some time and it might result in a frame surrounded by miscellaneous bike bits.
edit//kind of ran out of time cos i fixed my sewing machine instead
Last edited:
KateK
Well-Known Member
- Location
- cambridgeshire
I had a Raleigh Panache which was the 5 speed version of the Wisp and have been riding a Wisp for the last 2 1/2 years. Interesting to see the things about brake centering , I've always had to hold it with one hand and adjust with the other, takes ages... And my husband has just told me he has an adjuster!!!!!! Now. After 25 years.
No cake for him.
Yes, the back wheel does definitely not go all the way into the claw on one side and it does not come out, the wheel just needs to be nicely centred. Looks like the right saddle, it does adjust to and fro and nose.
If it's of any interest, I run a six speed shimano block on mine. I had cheap chains but decided to get a better one last time as the chains were lasting only 6 months. With a SRAM chain we found it needed a chain designed for more gears (9? I think) to run properly, otherwise it ran in between gears, yes really.
I love my Wisp, done nearly 6000 miles on it this year.
No cake for him.
Yes, the back wheel does definitely not go all the way into the claw on one side and it does not come out, the wheel just needs to be nicely centred. Looks like the right saddle, it does adjust to and fro and nose.
If it's of any interest, I run a six speed shimano block on mine. I had cheap chains but decided to get a better one last time as the chains were lasting only 6 months. With a SRAM chain we found it needed a chain designed for more gears (9? I think) to run properly, otherwise it ran in between gears, yes really.
I love my Wisp, done nearly 6000 miles on it this year.
OP
OP
hopless500
Trundling along
- Location
- not-as-flat-as-you-think Norfolk
Decided after a clean up that the back wheel really didn't need to come off. I probably will do it at some point when I have nothing better to do, but would rather just get it functioning so I can go for a ride. Both wheels spin very nicely, but they both could do with straightening. A job for Mr Hop in a week's time when he is home. Unfortunately for him he is very good at straightening wheels . Took off, cleaned and sorted back brake. That took AGES to centre. Absolutelyflippin' ages. Needs a new chain, but have given the old one a clean and some lube. Straightened a bent bit on the front derailleur which was catching. All the gears are changing well (on the whole). They probably need more investigating, but I'll wait until I've tried them out on the road.
Got the new seat stem in (which is the same size as the old one), but it put up a fight, and once I'd started I couldn't really stop. I doubt the bloody thing will ever come out again
I think a size down would have been better, but it's too late now. Modern saddle going on - comfort over aesthetics at this point! (but I'll keep the old saddle to one side).
Now I just need to find a (gentle) way of getting paint spots off the paintwork. Someone has obviously been using a roller near the bike - but it appears to be gloss which is a little odd. Jizer started to remove some of the bikes proper paint
so I quickly washed that off. White spirit did the same. WD40 sort of loosens it a bit if I wait ages and then scrape with a fingernail. But that is going to take weeks to do like that. Anyone have any good ideas???
New bar tape needs to go on.... and then that will be it for a while. I need another payday so I can get a new chain and some touring pedals (SPD/ordinary).
Tomorrow I am going to take it down the road for a spin
. Took off, cleaned and sorted back brake. That took AGES to centre. Absolutelyflippin' ages. Needs a new chain, but have given the old one a clean and some lube. Straightened a bent bit on the front derailleur which was catching. All the gears are changing well (on the whole). They probably need more investigating, but I'll wait until I've tried them out on the road.Got the new seat stem in (which is the same size as the old one), but it put up a fight, and once I'd started I couldn't really stop. I doubt the bloody thing will ever come out again
I think a size down would have been better, but it's too late now. Modern saddle going on - comfort over aesthetics at this point! (but I'll keep the old saddle to one side).Now I just need to find a (gentle) way of getting paint spots off the paintwork. Someone has obviously been using a roller near the bike - but it appears to be gloss which is a little odd. Jizer started to remove some of the bikes proper paint
so I quickly washed that off. White spirit did the same. WD40 sort of loosens it a bit if I wait ages and then scrape with a fingernail. But that is going to take weeks to do like that. Anyone have any good ideas???New bar tape needs to go on.... and then that will be it for a while. I need another payday so I can get a new chain and some touring pedals (SPD/ordinary).
Tomorrow I am going to take it down the road for a spin
OP
OP
hopless500
Trundling along
- Location
- not-as-flat-as-you-think Norfolk
New handlebar tape, saddle on. Been for a quick spin and the gears actually work. Falling in love with this bike already 
Just need to finish cleaning it up
Just need to finish cleaning it up
