Re-indexing gears

[MichaelO]

I'm seriously starting to lose my cool with my gears!! I started to notice that the indexing wasn't quite right after I changed my back tyre a few weeks ago. Since then, I must have watched hours of youtube videos & reams of guides, but, if anything, my gears are worse now than before I started fiddling with them! Everything I watched/read makes it look so easy, but I must be missing something - has anyone got any useful tips that I might have missed so that my gears are set up correctly.

Very annoying...

 

[raindog]

Why would changing a tyre alter your indexing?
Did you put the wheel back nice and square in the drop-outs?

 

[ianrauk]

What type of gears are they?
If you are struggling, pop it along to your LBS.

 

[MichaelO]

@raindog - I've taken the wheel on & off a couple of times, as I assumed it was that to begin with. Might give it another go tonight, just to be sure
@ianrauk - Shimano 105, 10 speed. LBS is definitely going to be my next stop - I thought I'd try & be more self sufficient

 

[ianrauk]

Then this the video for you - if you haven't seen it already. It's how I learnt and I guess a good few others here in CycleChat land.

 

[MichaelO]

Thanks - I've lost track of which ones I watched
I'm locking myself in the garage tonight to crack this & won't come out until it's done!

 

[ianrauk]

Thanks - I've lost track of which ones I watched
I'm locking myself in the garage tonight to crack this & won't come out until it's done!

Then watch this one - it really does de-mystify gear indexing.

 

[Globalti]

When was the last time you changed the cable outer at the derailleur? They need changing every 6 months or more in winter because they wear and get crudded up with rust and muck and shifting deteriorates.

 

[Andrew_P]

@raindog - I've taken the wheel on & off a couple of times, as I assumed it was that to begin with. Might give it another go tonight, just to be sure
@ianrauk - Shimano 105, 10 speed. LBS is definitely going to be my next stop - I thought I'd try & be more self sufficient

I found this the best way completely loosen off the cable whilst in the smallest cog. Turn the cranks any hint of noise like it is trying to change gear you will need to adjust the limiter screw. In fact it is good practice to turn it and see the effect it has to fine tune in future. Once this is done pull the cable really tight and re-attach it. Go all the way up to the largest cog and push the derailleur gently towards the spokes it shouldn't move any closer, if it doesn't then you are fine, if it does you will need to adjust the other limiter screw. It is then just a case of going up and down the gears and adjusting the tension using the barrel adjuster.

To check the wheel is aligned while the bike it upright on the floor loosen the quick release and either thump your saddle or lean on it hard then close the quick release.

9/10 when my gears will not adjust properly the cable has started to fray up by the exit of the lever this normally shows by not changing down towards the smallest cog properly. it sticks and then will start jumping around

 

[maltloaf]

Check the cables, you get all sorts of weirdness going on if the cables are sticking.

 

[MichaelO]

Thanks Andrew. I do wonder whether it is something to do with the cables, given how many times I've tried to readjust the limiter screws etc. Maybe new cables are in order (that's a whole other day of reading/video watching!).

 

[DWiggy]

I've had the similar with my 105 set up, ive changed the inners and the rear derailleur and my indexing was off, going from the small cog (rear) to the large was fine it was just coming back down the cassette was the problem.
I've just changed the inners and outers to Dura Ace cables (£16) and its now working like a charm....Its the weather!

 

[4F]

The video that Ian linked to is without doubt the best one.

 

[slowmotion]

I'm another big fan of Ian's video. I paused and rewound it loads of times until I got the hang of it while working on the bike.

 

[Globalti]

You will only need to change that last few inches of cable outer at the derailleur to get a big improvement in performance. Changing the full length will be better though but takes longer.

For the rear part only, put the derailleur on the smallest cog and remove the cable end cap and check the cable hasn't un-twisted. Re-twist it if it has. Note the position of the cable in the clamp then undo the clamp bolt and pull the inner out then remove the outer cable. Be amazed at the rusty state of the ends of the cable reinforcements and general crudded up condition. If you haven't got a Park Tools cable cutter and a length of outer cable (which everybody should have) take the piece of outer down to a bike shop and get them to cut you a few pieces the same length. Ask them to grind the ends flat. Take them home. Open the inner sheath at both ends with something spikey. Clean the inner cable thoroughly by pulling it through some wire wool then dribble chain lube onto your fingers and run the cable through them, just enough to moisten the cable. Screw in both cable adjusters clockwise fully. Refit the plastic ferrules on the cable outer (shop should give you some clean new ones) with a dab of grease just to help keep water out. Carefully, twisting the outer clockwise so as not to splay the inner cable, push the inner into the outer and through then out of the other end, still twisting to help it come cleanly through the seal in the ferrule. Refit the outer to the frame and the derailleur. Carefully grip the inner with some pliers, not at the end and not tight enough to splay the strands, and keep it tight while holding it in the clamp behind the bolt. You might find that levering against the derailleur body will help get a good tension. Tighten the bolt finger tight on the Allen key but not tight enough to crush the cable. Then take the slack out of the cable by unscrewing the cable adjusters until the derailleur begins to move inwards and there's no slack left in it. Crimp on one of the cable end caps you persuaded the bike shop guys to give you. Then re-commence your adjustments. Ride the bike and be amazed at how much deterioration in performance you had come to accept as normal. Repeat every few months.