Recycled Plastic Lumber Fencing

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JtB

Prepare a way for the Lord
Location
North Hampshire
Just wondering if anyone has any experience of "recycled plastic lumber" fencing. I'm looking for a fencing solution that requires little or no ongoing maintenance which is why I'm not that keen on wooden timber fencing. While searching the internet for alternative fencing solutions I came across this Plastecowood which can go up-to about 3M in height. This appears to provide a good solution for my need since I'm looking to replace a couple of tall leylandii hedges which require a lot of maintenance each year. I've just finished the latest cut and while the hedges look nice again, they do wear out my back more and more each year. :sweat:
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Sterlo

Early Retirement Planning
Great stuff but very expensive, will probably cost a few thousand.
 
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We bought a house where the deeds required a stock proof fence between the upper and lower gardens. The previous occupant put in concrete posts, bottom section then slid in slats of green plastic fencing to create the fence. It's different but works. The fence in your link looks better.
 

Drago

Legendary Member
How resistant to sunlight is it?

The proper stuff is pretty good. In terms of composition it's much like composite decking, wood fibres encased in a plastic resin.

Even the cheap stuff is supposed to have a 25 year life span, and th3 quality stuff often comes with a lifetime guarantee.

Very, very, spendy though. One of those anti vandal type metal fences is likely equally long lived and much less expensive per bay.

https://www.diy.com/departments/sto...-h-x-2-35m-7-7ft-w-cream/5061042130129_BQ.prd

Different colours, style and quality are available.
 
Location
Essex
As a material I specify and use recycled plastic lumber regularly. Its main limitations are probably not an issue here, namely:
  • It's bloody dense and therefore heavy (a good thing in a fence!)
  • Its coefficeint of thermal expansion is several times that of wood
  • Its extruded so its interior has a different texture to the outer surface. If you cut a plank or post in half you'll expose a matt, potentially slightly 'Aero' interior
The Plastecowood linked above seems to be designed around the available plank and post sizes and quite a smart solution. If the 1600mm planks were fixed to the posts they would bow an inch in the heat - but they're sat loose in slots with room to expand and contract so that's not an issue even if some of the fence is in shade while some is in direct sunlight. Most of the stuff we use is guaranteed UV-fast for 10 years and hasn't been around much longer than that to see what happens on day 3651: I suspect, not a lot!

But it won't rot, or need really any maintenance at all and can essentially used as a substitute for timber. The range of colours are a bit on the Henry Ford side but again, that's not a bad thing in a fence.

I wondered whether it would look a bit 'heavy' but actually...

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simongt

Guru
Location
Norwich
Only drawback of this stuff is that unlike wood, when you pre drill holes for screws etc., there's no give as with wood, so you need to get the holes the correct width & depth especially if you're using Pozidrive / Phillips screws which are designed to cam out after a certain amount of torque. :dry:
Noticed yesterday that a plastic fence had been put up using 6 lobe tamperproof screws which looked as if they're less likely to cam out. :whistle:
 
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Jameshow

Veteran
8
Only drawback of this stuff is that unlike wood, when you pre drill holes for screws etc., there's no give as with wood, so you need to get the holes the correct width & depth especially if you're using Pozidrive / Phillips screws which are designed to cam out after a certain amount of torque. :dry:
Noticed yesterday that a plastic fence had been put up using 6 lobe tamperproof screws which looked as if they're less likely to cam out. :whistle:

You could use SS pan head screws??
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Only drawback of this stuff is that unlike wood, when you pre drill holes for screws etc., there's no give as with wood, so you need to get the holes the correct width & depth especially if you're using Pozidrive / Phillips screws which are designed to cam out after a certain amount of torque. :dry:
Noticed yesterday that a plastic fence had been put up using 6 lobe tamperproof screws which looked as if they're less likely to cam out. :whistle:

No screws are designed to 'cam out' if they do you're using worn/cheap/wrong bits, drills with a screwdriver setting have torque adjustment on the chuck.
 

simongt

Guru
Location
Norwich
No screws are designed to 'cam out'
According to The History Guy, Phillips screws were developed in the American marine & aircraft industry because of the very thin alu & wood sheets being used were very prone to damage when overenthusiastic / poorly trained fitters were using slotted screws with power drivers. Thus the Phillips screw then the Pozidrive came about so they would cam out at a certain torque thus preventing damage to said panels.
My preference is for Robertson screws, the standard in Canada. :okay:
 

Drago

Legendary Member
The jury is out...

"The design is often criticized for its tendency to cam out at lower torque levels than other "cross head" designs. There has long been a popular belief that this was a deliberate feature of the design, to assemble aluminium aircraft without overtightening the fasteners. Extensive evidence is lacking for this specific narrative, and the feature is not mentioned in the original patents."

 

Gillstay

Über Member
I would reduce your hedge to the smallest size possible so that it still does the job before you do it. Most hedges can be made lower and one or two stems taken off the ends which saves a lot of work.
 
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