Removing seized bottom bracket (drive side) ?

[rockyraccoon]

I'm trying to replace my bottom bracket but can't get it off the bike... It's a shimano sealed square taper 68mm shell.

I am using this tool with an adjustable wrench. The non-drive side came off very easy.

I believe I'm doing it right. The drive side turns clockwise to loosen...left side turns counter clockwise to loosen.

I find it difficult to keep the BB tool in place when turning the wrench. I am worried that I have started wearing out the bottom bracket tooth and might not be able to remove it..

Any tips?

 

[rusky]

You've got the direction correct. Try soaking the threads in WD40 overnight then try.

If the BB is hollow, use a QR skewer to hold the tool on.

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Plus gas. down the seat tube. let it soak. better than WD or GT,

use a skewer to stop the tool slipping as per..

Park say this about threads

THREADING NOTE: Most modern bikes use an ISO thread standard for the bottom bracket. The left side thread is a right-hand direction thread, which tightens clockwise and removes counter-clockwise. This standard is also called English or BSC. The right side (drive side) thread is a left-hand thread, which tightens counter-clockwise and remove clockwise. There are some exceptions to the ISO. Bikes made in Italy may use "Italian" threading, with both drive and non-drive sides right hand thread.

If all else fails LBS. You won't be the first

 

[mrandmrspoves]

I'm trying to replace my bottom bracket but can't get it off the bike... It's a shimano sealed square taper 68mm shell.

I am using this tool with an adjustable wrench. The non-drive side came off very easy.

I believe I'm doing it right. The drive side turns clockwise to loosen...left side turns counter clockwise to loosen.

I find it difficult to keep the BB tool in place when turning the wrench. I am worried that I have started wearing out the bottom bracket tooth and might not be able to remove it..


What bike do you have?


THREADING NOTE: Most modern bikes use an ISO thread standard for the bottom bracket. The left side thread is a right-hand direction thread, which tightens clockwise and removes counter-clockwise. This standard is also called English or BSC. The right side (drive side) thread is a left-hand thread, which tightens counter-clockwise and remove clockwise. There are some exceptions to the ISO. Bikes made in Italy may use "Italian" threading, with both drive and non-drive sides right hand thread. There may be markings such as "36 x 24" on the cups. Older bikes from France may have right hand threads on both sides

If your crank spindle is hollow, you can hold your BB tool in place with a QR skewer and a washer.

If it won't shift after soaking overnight with penetrating oil try tightening it slightly first as this often breaks the lock.

If you still can't shift it - you may need more leverage. I have had to resort to a breaker bar before now to free off a seized BB so get a longer spanner than your adjustable.

 

[colly]

My advice. Take it to a LBS and pay them a fiver to get it out for you.

I know it might go against the grain if you like doing your own maintenance but sometimes there is no option than having the right gear.
I tried to remove a bb a few months ago and I tried everything I could think of. Some nasty marks on the frame and a good few skinned knuckles and a ruined removal tool convinced me I needed help. I called into a LBS and for fiver they got it out for me. I wandered past the door to the workshop while they were at it because I could hear some appalling creaking and groaning coming from within. The frame was clamped on a huge metal bench which in turn was bolted to the wall and floor, they had lever and extension bar turning the removal tool. The extension tool must have been 2' 6'' long, and boy was he straining on it. The bb was turning OK but slowly and making that awful creaking.
5 mins later he gave me back the frame and the removed bb and even 5 mins after it had been removed the bb was still almost too hot to touch from the friction.

There is absolutely no way I would ever have got it out. £5 well spent.

 

[mrandmrspoves]

My advice. Take it to a LBS and pay them a fiver to get it out for you.

I know it might go against the grain if you like doing your own maintenance but sometimes there is no option than having the right gear.
I tried to remove a bb a few months ago and I tried everything I could think of. Some nasty marks on the frame and a good few skinned knuckles and a ruined removal tool convinced me I needed help. I called into a LBS and for fiver they got it out for me. I wandered past the door to the workshop while they were at it because I could hear some appalling creaking and groaning coming from within. The frame was clamped on a huge metal bench which in turn was bolted to the wall and floor, they had lever and extension bar turning the removal tool. The extension tool must have been 2' 6'' long, and boy was he straining on it. The bb was turning OK but slowly and making that awful creaking.
5 mins later he gave me back the frame and the removed bb and even 5 mins after it had been removed the bb was still almost too hot to touch from the friction.

There is absolutely no way I would ever have got it out. £5 well spent.

Colly isn't exagerating! ......but pay a bike shop £5 - never! Not while I have any skin left on any of my knuckles!

 

[Smurfy]

This is why I always thoroughly grease the threads.

If the tool still fits well, and the splines aren't damaged, a breaker bar and the correct size socket to fit the BB tool might do it.

If that fails, and you're feeling brave, you can try collapsing the cup inwards:
1. Use a round file of about 6mm diameter at several locations around the circumference of the cup, until you can just see the BB shell threads appearing across the entire width of the cup. You need to be very careful or you'll damage the BB shell threads as well as the BB cup.
2. Using a hacksaw or the file, cut through the lip part of the cup that extends beyond the face of the BB shell at the same locations you filed through to the threads.
3. Try again with the tool to remove the cup. The cup will have very little strength if you've done 1 and 2 properly, and may collapse as soon as you apply pressure. An alternative is to use a punch and hammer on the lip of the cup to try and collapse the cup inwards.
4. If 3 doesn't work, get a bright light and have a good look at where you've filed to check you've gone as far as you can without filing the BB shell threads. When you've gone almost as far as you can you should see the threads of the cup appear. A bit more filing and you'll see the peaks of the BB shell threads appearing, very narrow at first because you're at the crest of the thread. When you see the crests of the BB shell threads you know to stop filing.
5. Be patient and careful. It won't be a 10 minute job and may take an hour or more.

I've never used this technique on a BB, but there's no reason it shouldn't work, and I think it's a well known engineering practice. I used it to remove two hot water cylinder immersion heaters which were stuck fast because a plumber had used liquid thread sealant on the threads instead of PTFE tape. The first one I had to file and cut into around 3-4 segments before if would come out using the immersion heater box wrench. The second was stuck so badly I had to cut it into about 6-8 segments and tap each segment inwards with a hammer.

 

[robgul]

The LBS solution suggested above with clamping the lip of the BB in a BIG vice and using the frame as a lever (rocking gently to get it started) usually works - filing opposing flats on the lip helps the jaws of the vice to grip. ... and unless you have 3 hands you'll need help to load the vice jaws and then tighten it!

Rob

 

[palinurus]

The skewer thing will probably work- it's hard to remove them if they are even a bit stuck if you can't keep the tool in place. If the skewer won't fit (sometimes they don't) then you can usually fix the remover on with a large washer and the crank bolt.

 

[PpPete]

Can be difficult to hold the tool in place whilst putting lots of pressure on the wrench..
My favorite technique involves use of a small child.

Me, holding frame with one hand, and tool in place with the other. Small child on the end of 8 ft scaffold pole over the end of the wrench..
Never fails to a) amuse said child that he can move a stuck thing that Daddy can't shift.
b) teaches them from an early age about moments of force.
c) shift even the most stubborn BB

In the absence of a suitable child, a spouse or other passer-by may be used intead.

 

[Ed no-more-lemons]

Plus two, for the vice thing, with the bike being the lever!
Doesn't need to be big, just screwed onto something that you can squat or stand on.

 

[rockyraccoon]

I've tried again this morning. I think I've made things worse.

I only need a longer axle so I thought maybe if I tried hard I could remove the axle from one side the cartridge. Well I did.

This is the result:
The axle, 1 cup and 1 bearing are out (non-drive side). Still in the frame is the other bearing and the cartridge.

Well, calling LBS!

 

[Sittingduck]

I had the same problem last weekend. Ended up taking it to the LBS.

 

[rockyraccoon]

Just rang my LBS.. They want £18 to remove it and only able to do in 10 day's time ...

It does not bother me if that stays in the frame as long as I can replace the spindle for a longer one. Does anyone know if it is straight away thing to do it? If I had the spindle could I do that?

 

[Sittingduck]

Find a new LBS
Took mine in about 5pm Monday. Had a phone call saying it was ready for collection about 11am Tuesday. Cost me a tenner (including fitting a new BB - that I gave to them).