Replacement 27 wheels

[KateK]

Hi Guys, I know this question has been asked before, but the links are defunct so:
I have a 1980s entry level Raleigh Wisp mixte ie heavy (about 34lbs with rack and guards) that I have been using for 2 1/2 years now doing about 5000 miles a year. It still has the original chromed wheels and they are getting very rusty. Also I've just started going out with a group and realise that, although I'm used to a half mile braking distance in heavy rain and accommodate it, it's not safe for group riding. So what do I replace them with?
I want the wheels to go well, I do 16mph av on a good day, but also to be strong enough for carrying shopping and winter riding.
I've run into problems with cheap replacement stuff before for these old bikes (gear block falling apart after 2 months for example) so would be grateful for any pointers, also any recommendations for brake blocks: brakes are original side pull with exciting 'no-brake' extension levers.

 

[Poacher]

SJS cyles still have some 27" rims, apparently, but only in 36 or 40 hole. Is there enough adjustability on your existing brake calipers to drop the brake blocks a few mm to enable 700c wheels to be used? It might be time to upgrade the brakes to deep-drop double pivot, which would be a revelation after using old single pivot ones. For brake blocks, Koolstop salmon are cheap enough and improve braking noticeably, even on chromed rims. Just a few things to consider.

As an afterthought, I'm sure I have a couple of slightly used 27" rims kicking about in the outhouse; not top notch quality, but would be an improvement over your current ones. Can't remember what the drilling was, but they're probably both 36 hole, rather than the old 32 front / 40 rear fashion.

 

[KateK]

This is where my ineptitude shows... My current wheels are 27 x 1 1/4. Could I put narrower wheels on? Would they cope with the weight? I'll count the spokes, what difference does it make?

 

[KateK]

Hmm yes realised, spokes go on hubs don't they, so different spokes means new hubs.

 

[Poacher]

700c wheels are a smaller diameter* from the axle to the rim, but not necessarily narrower - depending on the rim chosen, they can accept tyres considerably larger than the 27 by 1 1 /4 you have. The 1 1/4 refers to the size of tyre usually fitted, rather than the width of the rim, which will be quite a bit less than 1".

*About 8mm smaller, so if your brake blocks can be moved 4mm lower in the slot, you can use 700c wheels in your frame. See Sheldon Brown's page on caliper brakes, in particular the illustration of a caliper with a reach range of 39 to 49mm, set at 39mm. This shows that the brake blocks in this case can be lowered by 10mm. If your brakes have a visible amount of slot below the nut securing the brake block, odds are you can use 700c wheels, in which case you're laughing. All things being equal, 700c wheels are ever so slightly stronger than 27", due to the spokes entering the hub at a slightly less acute angle, so no worries about coping with the weight. Number of spokes will only really be an issue if you intend to keep your existing hubs and rebuild with new rims. Unless the hubs are in really good condition they're probably not worth keeping (says the cheapskate who's been known to re-use old hubs up to three times!).

So the first thing to do is have a look at your brakes. Even if they don't allow the brake blocks to be dropped lower, all is not lost; have a look at deep drop dual pivots like these.

 

[Spokesmann]

I have Weinmann Rm19s on a couple of bikes, alloy satin finish, strong reliable and not too expensive.

 

[bigjim]

I've never had a problem with single pivot brakes. The brakes on that bike on my Avatar are standard Weinmann and are plenty powerful. The so called suicide levers have also proved to be fine. I think it is a question on keeping them in adjustment and serviced. The knowledgeable Jobst Brandt did not see the point of dual pivot unless the rider had a weak grip. Saying that I believe that the single pivot were designed to be more powerful when used from the drop position. Modern bikes with their lower riding position encourage braking from the hoods and maybe this is where dual pivot may be an advantage.
I wanted to replace some 27" wheels but good clinchers do not seem to be available. Many of the older wheels are not clinchers and will not accept high pressure modern tyres.

 

[ChrisEyles]

Remember to check your O.L.D. (over locknut distance) before ordering new wheels! Old bikes are typically spaced a little narrower than new ones (no 11-speed cassettes back in those days). I speak from experience!

I recently replaced the 27" wheels on my old ten speed. I had them built by a guy called Matt from Single Speed Components. (shacklewellcomponents@googlemail.com).
Cost was £97 for the pair, Q/R spindles, 36 spoke each, with the rear wheel respaced and redished for 120mm with a 5-speed freewheel. The wheels were a very nice high polished aluminium, looked a lot like chrome, and have been running excellently so far (better than the old ones, which had nothing wrong with them besides excessive wear to the braking surfaces).

Best of all, I now get to run high pressure Pasela Panaracers, which were previously out due to the lack of a clincher rim on the old wheels

In short - should be perfectly possible to find what you want, but remember to measure the O.L.D. first!

 

[Poacher]

Very good point! I was getting a bit carried away earlier. I've used 130mm in a 126mm frame for years, but "springing" the frame can be awkward, and isn't ideal.
I couldn't face the fear of cold-setting!

 

[ChrisEyles]

I was also far too scared to cold set from 120mm to 130mm (especially since one of the chain stays had previously been repaired) - so I had to return the first set of wheels I bought! Hence the warning to the O.P...

I'd agree that if your brake calipers have the reach, and you can get an appropriate O.L.D. hub, then converting to 700c will give you a much better choice than sticking with 27". If you do go down this route, it might be handy to know that 32mm is almost exactly the same width as 1 1/4".

Happy shopping!

 

[KateK]

Thanks guys, that has given me a lot of useful info. I will do some measuring and consider my options. Had to go out on my new bike today as my old one had found a puncture overnight (thanks gatorskins) and it is a revelation how good the brakes are. I do keep my Raleigh serviced btw, my LBS keeps the wheel trued as best he can and I adjust the brakes but they are old and much as I love it, the winter can be rather exciting... Hurtling downhill towards a T junction and praying is not one of my favourite pastimes.
Bit chilly and damp today.

 

[Hicky]

Cold set a mixte not too long ago....simple really, stand on one dropout and lift the other slightly....turn over and repeat. Measure for true.
Forks I again grabbed the dropout and opened....measured, hey presto.
Put wheels in to check for centre, powdercoat, what I found hard was figuring out what parts matched with what for the groupset!

 

[tyred]

Definitely plenty out there in 27" although you would struggle to find high end stuff if that's what you are are after.

If the brakes have enough adjustment, I would go 700c with wide enough to take 37mm tyres. Recently done this to my winter fixed wheel and love it. Don't find it any slower and it's more comfortable. On real world road surfaces, wider, lower pressure tyres often roll better, puncture less and grip better.