Replacement Chain - I've got 4 more teeth

[Rooster1]

Hi

I've just replaced my road by chain for a 114 tooth 9 speed chain.

Previously it had 100 teeth and now, the rear derailleur is at a terrible (flat) angle when on the smallest cog.

I have triple up front.

Should I expect to be able to use all the front triple rings with all the rear rings? Or is this an unnecessary requirement.

cheers

 

[deptfordmarmoset]

Hi

I've just replaced my road by chain for a 114 tooth 9 speed chain.

Previously it had 100 teeth and now, the rear derailleur is at a terrible (flat) angle when on the smallest cog.


I have triple up front.

Should I expect to be able to use all the front triple rings with all the rear rings? Or is this an unnecessary requirement.

cheers

You'll need to remove some links with a chain tool. The longest length you'll need is for the chain to go round the big rings front and rear.

 

[PpPete]

You probably need to take some links out of the new chain before you fit it.
See the article on Chain length on this page : http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain

 

[moo]

I prefer the small to small test, removing a few teeth at a time. Less chance of cutting the chain too small that way. Put bike into the smallest front gear and gradually move to the smallest rear. If you can't use the smallest front and rear without the chain rubbing, links need to be removed. It can happily have almost no clearance, so long as it doesn't rub.

 

[BSRU]

Most new chains are 114 links these days, just make it the same number of links as the one it is replacing.
If you've bought a SRAM chain they give instructions on how to set the chain length.

 

[byegad]

I prefer the small to small test, removing a few teeth at a time. Less chance of cutting the chain too small that way. Put bike into the smallest front gear and gradually move to the smallest rear. If you can't use the smallest front and rear without the chain rubbing, links need to be removed. It can happily have almost no clearance, so long as it doesn't rub.

On my recumbents I use this method, given the huge chain lengths involved, one trike use 2 and 2/3rds standard 114 link chains and the others 2 &1/2 and 2 &1/3 full chains. This means chain crossover angles are small even using what for a DF bike would be seen as extreme combinations.

This enables me to run all 27 combinations safely. The biggest capacity I use has a 24-40-55 up front to an 11-34 at the rear a difference of 54 teeth between big/big and small/small. This will, and often does run both the 55 to 34 and the 24 to 11 combinations without rubbing or any ill effects. I have been using this set up for 7 years and have covered many thousands of miles with no incidents.

 

[jayonabike]

The easiest way when replacing a chain is lay the old and new chains side by side and cut the new one the same length as the old

 

[shouldbeinbed]

The easiest way when replacing a chain is lay the old and new chains side by side and cut the new one the same length as the old

give or take. i've seen some chains stretched quite a bit.

But I do do very similar @Rooster1: I lay the chains side by side and count off the links 1:1 so I know I'm shortening the new chain to the same number of links as the old one. *taking it as read that the old chain is correct length*. If you think the old one wass a tad slack or pulling the derailleur up too much you can +/-1 link.

 

[Brommyboy]

By putting the chain on the two largest, chain ring and sprocket, then adding two links for a short derailleur or four for a long one, to the minimum chain length, will be the correct length for that set-up.

 

[Rooster1]

thanks all