Result at the tip this morning

[biggs682]

There might be. Maybe a couple of mm to grip onto. Are you suggesting clamping the parrot nose pliers around the outside of the whole thing to get it moving?

I am indeed had to resort to same a few times

 

[raleighnut]

This is the non- drive side so my thinking was to get this side out, clean or replace the bearings/crank and leave the other side in.

Sorry, it looks like the drive side. If it's stuck it must be corrosion.

 

[stalagmike]

I am indeed had to resort to same a few times

And it'll be lefty loosey for this side right? Or it should probably ought to be.

 

[Bobby Maclean]

Great find stalagmike, and for me, this thread(and forum) has been a great find!
I picked up an old bike in a bit of a state that has me hooked on trying to work out the best way to restore it.
The links on this thread alone are gold dust, and as for the box spanner tip!! I have been buying sockets from car boot sales for the last few weeks, coming home with them, hoping they will fit in the Zeus chain set. Can't believe all I need is one of those box spanners I have been ignoring.
So thanks everyone, look forward to boring you with my new baby as soon as I can post pictures.

 

[Gravity Aided]

On the BB Cups, I used a set of water pump pliers (adjustable, ) and then cleaned all the rusty, but still chromed bits up afterward in household cleaning vinegar. After it sat in a bucket of vinegar for 5 hours, a good stiff cleaning brush and some Bar keepers Friend did the rest. Then I soaked all the parts in penetrating oil, dryed them, and then spray waxed. That's my usual way of dealing with rusty old components. If truly bad, a bench grinder and the wire wheel followed by a polish and a re-tapping of threads on smaller parts.

 

[stalagmike]

I bit the bullet and bought a park tool pin spanner (spa-1 I think) and it worked like a dream on the adjustable cup. Got the cup, bearings and crank out last night. A couple of bearing were pitted and worn so I'm gonna replace them all. I think I'll keep them loose rather than caged. I've got some carlube LM2 lithium grease, but I'm wondering if this is the right thing to use to regrease? It looks like vaseline to me. I'm worried it won't hang around for long in there. It'll be a while before I put it all back together again, I need to sort out the paint work now.

 

[biggs682]

i use this stuff

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lubrica...onid=1f0a19369d2a4738371d943aef34925084d0c84a

 

[Gravity Aided]

I use marine bearing grease for bb and headset, because it's like the ocean in there.

 

[stalagmike]

Have been using rubbing compound on the Holdsworth frame today and the paint is coming up nice and shiny. Got a question for the CC hive mind about Reynolds decals. I'm not planning on repainting the frame, just using vactan on the rusty bits and touching it up with enamel -however the Reynolds sticker is looking a bit flakey and I'd like to replace. Found this:-
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/292611073526

It says it's 'dry-fix' - so what's the craic with that then? Do I need to lacquer over it afterwards? Any advice on the process of applying these successfully?

 

[midlife]

Dry fix just means you rub it onto the frame like Letraset. Will be more robust if varnished over.

 

[Rusty Nails]

I used to get good finds like that from our local dump until the council in its wisdom decided to close it down as part of an "efficiency" drive. (In reality they had a good offer for the land it was on).

The staff were very good and left a long hooked pole for people to extract stuff that could be used. They weren't supposed to but turned a blind eye. I must have had a dozen bikes off them over the years.

I love seeing something like that rescued from the crusher.