Road tyre fitting question

[Pointy boy]

Had one of those easy jobs that turned into a frustrating marathon yesterday. Fitting new gator skins and tubes.
I've fitted loads of mtb tyres before, but this was my first time with 700x23's. It all went smoothly except getting the very last bit of the tyre seated properly on the rim. I always work towards the valve, so this was the last bit.
I could get the tyre onto the rim, but there was a slight bulge adjacent to the valve. It seemed like the reinforced bit of the inner tube where the valve is attached was preventing the tyre from seating properly. After multiple re-fitting attempts, plenty of swearing and general mucking about ( wrecking one tube in the process) i finally got it neatly seated. My question: is this a common issue, and if so is there a knack to doing this? Was I doing something wrong?
The tubes were Continentals, and were the correct size for the rims.

Thanks.

 

[midlife]

I always seat the valve first.......push the valve up into the tyre, seat the tyre..........and then for good luck I give the tyre above the valve a thump with the ball of my hand (habit, probably does nothing). And then with the valve and adjacent tyre seated work my way to opposite the valve.

Even then some 700c clinchers are an absolute nightmare, I'm not sure all manufactures are working from the same spec sheet

Shaun

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

Valve in first, blow a couple of PSI into the tube to help it hold the tyre shape, helps prevent pinching IME too

 

[raleighnut]

Best way is to finish at 90 degrees to the valve, all the advantages of plenty of rim hollow to get the tyre into and none of the valve faffing.

 

[Monsieur Remings]

Agree with TMHNET, even by adding psi you can simply push the valve further into the seat of the tyre so long as you haven't put the ring back in place...this avoids pinching all along.

Also, you can use the plastic levers to put the tyre on! Try it.

And if it's asking just too much to get the tyre on that last little bit then release some air. Once seated properly you'll probably find the tyre sits a lot easier than it did to begin with when first unfolded, even with the same or lesser amount of psi.

 

[SatNavSaysStraightOn]

I have always gone with the valve first. The multi-use (as opposed to single-use) cable ties come in handy with clinchers as well..

 

[guitarpete247]

+1 for valve first. Also when I think I've got it on, I pump up to pressure, bounce tyre all the way round, deflate, check again then reflate before fitting wheel to bike.

 

[Pointy boy]

Thanks for the replies. At least I know I'm not the only one to struggle :-)
@midlife: that's pretty much the technique I eventually stumbled on by accident yesterday - good to know I got that right!

Thanks all.

 

[youngoldbloke]

Valve last. Bit of air in the tube to keep its shape. Let a bit out towards end of fitting. Don't use the threaded washer on the valve (if your tube has one). Push the valve up into the tyre to get the last of the bead on. Got Gatorskins on two wheelsets - 501s and Aksiums. Can get them on and off with thumbs NO levers. BUT I always buy FOLDING versions, worth it - lighter and easier to fit.

 

[Smokin Joe]

Valve last.

Although that's an issue that could rival the old Campag/Shimano debates.

 

[Tim Hall]

Nothing to add really (although talc on tubes is thought of highly in some quarters).

However the OP's first sentence had a ring of wossname about it

Had one of those easy jobs that turned into a frustrating marathon yesterday

New from Schwalbe, the Frustrating Marathon - even tougher to put on than a Marathon Plus.