Rolling Resistance of tyres.

[Banjo]

I fitted a superlite ulremo with latex tube on the front wheel and a marathon plus with heavy duty tube on the back wheel, road and wind conditions were the same each time I went out and could detect no difference in speed of either wheel and tyre combo. Go figure!

If you tested the front and back in one test ride they definitely would have done the same speed

PS just to be clear I know you did 2 rides.

I have been using Luganos because they came with the bike new and seemed to do the job.Was pleasantly surprised at how cheap they are on replacements.
Next tyre change I plan to go for something further up the rolling resistance list and hopefully feel some benefit.

Anyway thanks for all the replies.

Have to say the only punctures I have had with luganos have been on cycle / shared paths so quite impressed with that aspect of them.

 

[Kajjal]

Rolling resistance also comes from having the tyres at the correct pressure. Cheaper tyres tend to be less supple and not roll as well but the design of the tyre matters as well.

 

[Venod]

I think the rolling resistance tests are a good reference point for tyres the tests are not real world, but are identical for all tyres, this is hard to achieve out on the road/trail.

My recent tyre experience.

Vittoria Zaffiro Pro Slick 25mm folding, long lasting decent puncture resistance,

Vittoria XN pro folding,32mm run at 40psi tubeless (not a tubeless specific tyre) decent wear rate so far, might have punctured but if they have the Stans has worked.

Vittoria Diamante Pro Radial folding 24mm, fantastic tyres these replaced the Zaffiro Pros and the speed difference was obvious ,decent puncture resistance but abysmal wear rate.

Schwalbe Marathon Racer folding 30mm good wear rate, good puncture resistance.

Michelin Lithion 2, 25mm first use of these so not sure of wear rate or puncture resistance but very comfortable ride at 90psi.

Continental GP4000s 25mm folding decent ride but cut up very easily and more punctures than any of the other tyres. other people love them so I may have had a poor quality pair, but it put me off them.

Continental Gator Skins 25mm folding, fantastic puncture resistance and wear, but always felt a bit twitchy.

No Name Taiwan 23mm wired, came on a fixie I acquired, a harsh ride, but large flange hubs and deep rims won't have helped.

Planet X kevlar 25mm, good puncture resistance, a bit twitchy.

 

[Smokin Joe]

ok ... try this:

fit a pair of Schwalbe Marathon plus to your bike then ride for 3 months on your regular cycle routes and record your times (*and the wind speeds) ..,. use strava and make a note of the wind

then,fit a pair of Continental Grand Prix 4000sII and do the same,..., then post back here and tell us if tyres make a difference or not

That's hardly comparing like with like though, is it? The test the OP quotes is a comparison between similar spec race tyres.

 

[Ajax Bay]

The test the OP quotes is a comparison between similar spec race tyres.

I agree that @dim 's choice of two tyres (M+ and GP4000SII) to compare lacks merit and would be nugatory (though perhaps not: record the number of punctures!!). But, with respect, the OP quoted the rr difference between a Lugano (£10, as fitted to a new bike to meet a price point, and rock bottom of the 'road tyre' list), and the 'top of the list' £50+ TT tyre (Vittoria Corsa Speed (Open TLR)) with minimal rubber thickness which may end up bald after a dozen 10s or less. So not 'similar spec', I suggest.
Filtering the list by price, these are the 4 tyres that are shown as in the 'low' bracket. The Conti is 7w less Rr, and the same weight as the Lugano so should be a 'quicker' ride. The other two are heavier tyres, the Vittoria particularly so. The Lugano is rated a much more robust tyre to resist puncturing through the 'tread', almost as good as the Durano (£25) others have recommended.

Brand Model
Continental Ultra Sport II
Vittoria Zaffiro Slick
Michelin Dynamic Sport
Schwalbe Lugano

 

[MontyVeda]

According to this http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/specialized-s-works-turbo-2016
my Luganos have about 3 times the rolling resistance of the fastest roadbike tyres.

How significant is this in the real world for someone who doesn't race but does do long rides so doesn't wish to waste energy?

I think people fixate on things like rolling resistance too much. I ride an old rigid MTB with gargantuan balloon tyres and a fair few roadie owners have harrumphed at them, muttering 'rolling resistance' amongst other things. My mate Derek was the worst culprit. He couldn't walk past my bike without telling me that i 'need' to put thin tyres on it and assuming it must be like riding through custard. My argument is they look 'rad' and are comfy, especially on long rides. The difference between me a Derek is his idea of 'long' ride as around ten miles whereas mine is closer to forty. Certainly not 'long' compared to many on here but it's a nice afternoon out. I wouldn't worry about rolling resistance, nor would i worry about wasting energy... otherwise i'd be avoiding the hills.

 

[Kajjal]

I think people fixate on things like rolling resistance too much. I ride an old rigid MTB with gargantuan balloon tyres and a fair few roadie owners have harrumphed at them, muttering 'rolling resistance' amongst other things. My mate Derek was the worst culprit. He couldn't walk past my bike without telling me that i 'need' to put thin tyres on it and assuming it must be like riding through custard. My argument is they look 'rad' and are comfy, especially on long rides. The difference between me a Derek is his idea of 'long' ride as around ten miles whereas mine is closer to forty. Certainly not 'long' compared to many on here but it's a nice afternoon out. I wouldn't worry about rolling resistance, nor would i worry about wasting energy... otherwise i'd be avoiding the hills.

That's the main thing, use what suits you best.

 

[Boon 51]

I've used Conti GP 4000's all year round with no issues if it's soaking wet I just ease off a bit on the corners. Bloody love them tyres I use the 25's bit pricey but other than that I've never had an issue with them.

I would add.. The Conti 4000's are dearer but worth the extra. Top tyres in my book

 

[lutonloony]

So, Marathon+ if I want bomb proof, don't mind losing 5% (just made that figure up), and don't really care how long it takes to get there?

 

[dim]

So, Marathon+ if I want bomb proof, don't mind losing 5% (just made that figure up), and don't really care how long it takes to get there?

or Schwalbe Durano plus if you want decent bombproof winter road bike tyres .... I will be getting a pair at the end of this month for my S-Works which I will continue to use during winter for fast long rides on weekends

 

[Ajax Bay]

Marathon+ if I want bomb proof,

Again depends what factors you weigh above others, and by how much: see pentagon of characteristics below.
Remember that a pair of M+s at 28-622 will add a kilogram to the bike and that a pair of Durano+s at 28-622 will add half a kilogram to the bike(cf a normal tyre eg the Lugano mentioned in another thread).
M+ 28 weighs ~760g. Durano+ 28 weighs 530g. Durano 28 weighs 290g. GP4S 28 weighs 250g.
Durano+ have higher rolling resistance than tyres in the same class, weigh more - the only plus they offer is increased puncture resistance. If adding 240g of so-called 'Smart Guard belt' is important to you, then don't muck around: go for the M+ (though they'd look odd on @dim 's S-works, I agree). If I was doing "fast long rides" (which I am) I would not surrender 10w by running heavy, high rolling resistance tyres suffering from winter puncture paranoia. NB subject of thread.

I have just fitted these: MICHELIN Pro4 Service Course

For the rider in search of efficiency, puncture protection and high grip: +30 % better grip on wet ground (externally tested) on average compared to the main competitor!

MICHELIN Pro4 Service Course v MICHELIN Pro4 Endurance chart:

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Again depends what factors you weigh above others, and by how much: see pentagon of characteristics below.
Remember that a pair of M+s at 28-622 will add a kilogram to the bike and that a pair of Durano+s at 28-622 will add half a kilogram to the bike(cf a normal tyre eg the Lugano mentioned in another thread).
M+ 28 weighs ~760g. Durano+ 28 weighs 530g. Durano 28 weighs 290g. GP4S 28 weighs 250g.
Durano+ have higher rolling resistance than tyres in the same class, weigh more - the only plus they offer is increased puncture resistance. If adding 240g of so-called 'Smart Guard belt' is important to you, then don't muck around: go for the M+ (though they'd look odd on @dim 's S-works, I agree). If I was doing "fast long rides" (which I am) I would not surrender 10w by running heavy, high rolling resistance tyres suffering from winter puncture paranoia. NB subject of thread.

I have just fitted these: MICHELIN Pro4 Service Course

For the rider in search of efficiency, puncture protection and high grip: +30 % better grip on wet ground (externally tested) on average compared to the main competitor!

MICHELIN Pro4 Service Course v MICHELIN Pro4 Endurance chart:

Nice graphs, but I don't see Bombproofness on any of the axis.

 

[mythste]

ok ... try this:

fit a pair of Schwalbe Marathon plus to your bike then ride for 3 months on your regular cycle routes and record your times (*and the wind speeds) ..,. use strava and make a note of the wind

then,fit a pair of Continental Grand Prix 4000sII and do the same,..., then post back here and tell us if tyres make a difference or not

I tried this, but got blinded by an oncoming cyclist with a cree light on their helmet. I was subsequently run over by a driver, also blinded by aforementioned light.

Unfortunately, now I'm dead and all, my results never saw the light of day. I did however, get a chance to ask the big guy upstairs, and he's pretty sure that's a useless way of finding out too.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I don't see Bombproofness on any of the axis.

None of the axes are marked up for that. I do reckon that other posters were deliberately using 'bomb-proof' to see how long you could restrain yourself. Quite a while, it seems, but not forever.
No matter how fast or slow you go, there is no ride that can't be made more comfortable and enjoyable, by a pair of nice supple tyres. When able-bodied riders fit battleship tyres for not-particularly-challenging road surfaces, IMO it usually seems to be due to paranoia: either a mistaken belief that lighter tyres will puncture, or a fear that fixing a puncture is nigh-on impossible. The first is wrong, and the correct response to the second is to learn how to do the extremely basic task of fixing a flat, made much easier by fitting sensible tyres that a normal person can take off and put back on the rim!

 

[nickyboy]

None of the axes are marked up for that. I do reckon that other posters were deliberately using 'bomb-proof' to see how long you could restrain yourself. Quite a while, it seems, but not forever.
No matter how fast or slow you go, there is no ride that can't be made more comfortable and enjoyable, by a pair of nice supple tyres. When able-bodied riders fit battleship tyres for not-particularly-challenging road surfaces, IMO it usually seems to be due to paranoia: either a mistaken belief that lighter tyres will puncture, or a fear that fixing a puncture is nigh-on impossible. The first is wrong, and the correct response to the second is to learn how to do the extremely basic task of fixing a flat, made much easier by fitting sensible tyres that a normal person can take off and put back on the rim!

Quite. There needs to be a bit of perspective regarding punctures. I'm not particularly fast at changing a flat but I'll do it in less than 15 minutes. Over 25,000km I've probably had a dozen punctures, and that's with using tyres that are definitely not "bomb proof" (Vittoria Rubinos in the main). So they've cost me 3 hours or so in 4 years.
In fitting bomb proof tyres there is both a rolling resistance and weight penalty. Even if I had no punctures at all in 4 years I still would have "lost" a lot more than those 3 hours I've spent fixing punctures. 10W (or whatever it is, but it's of this order) is a lot of extra rolling resistance. I'll average 160W for a longer ride so devoting 10/160 of my output to overcoming unnecessary rolling resistance is bonkers