Rust....

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Location
Loch side.
So titanium is OK then? I have odd bits of rusty chrome on my plastic bikes and was considering titanium. It seems to work on aeroplanes.
Not necessarily. There is titanium and titanium. Pure titanium is not widely used as structural components in engineering and it is usually alloyed with metals that give it the desired properties for the application. By buying titanium bolts from a Russian website you may not be supplied with the right information to make the right decision.
Further, the bolt's construction is critical for critical bolts like the ones I listed somewhere on this thread. Firstly, the thread has to be rolled, not cut. By cutting the thread you weaken the bolt substantially as well as reduce it's ability to resist cyclical stresses. By rolling the thread you remove no material and work-harden the bolt at the same time. There should be a smooth lead-out from shank to first thread - especially the first thread.
All of these things are taken care of when you buy high-tensile bolts. They may or may not have been taken care of when you buy just any old titanium bolt. For the two most critical applications - bar clamp and seat rail clamp, I won't recommend fiddling with non-stock bolts or, if they need replacing, get the right bolt. For other bolts such as those holding brake shoes onto the caliper, brake disc mounting onto the hub, water bottle cages, bell clamps, rack bolts etc etc, fiddle without concern for dire consequences.
A bicycle is not an aeroplane. And titanium is judiciously used on aeroplanes but there is still plenty of high-ten steel on airoplanes. Including cromoly. I don't see anyone saying my bike is cool because cromoly is used on Russian jet fighters.
 
Thanks for the information.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Stainless steel is an alloy of low carbon steel and chromium (a minimum of 11%) content so designed to be highly corrosion resistant (but). Stainless steel is not stronger than regular steel: for example the the stainless alloy used in bolts is slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel but significantly weaker than hardened steel. And due to their low carbon content, many stainless steel alloys cannot be hardened through heat treatment. As @Yellow Saddle has pointed out, the issue is brittleness and (relative lack of) resistance to stress-caused micro cracks elongating (leading to failure without warning). In any case be careful you have some reasonable assurance of the fasteners you're buying, of whatever metal.
Titanium @Apollonius - have a read of this:
http://faqload.com/faqs/bicycle-components/bolt-tuning-replacing-steel-bolts-with-titanium-
Edit: @Yellow Saddle has beaten me with a bespoke answer
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Just blob a bit of oil on the bolt heads....stops the rust. Seems to have worked very well on my 25 year old plus bikes. Another pointless (IMO) material is alloy for chainring bolts. You've got to be very careful with these.
 

Drago

Legendary Member
But stainless has good refractory properties, better in some circumstances than titanium. At full chat and clean of external ordnance the 25 was barely slower than the SR71, but suffered none of the transitory thermal distortion that the 71s airframe did. Sometimes a hammer can be as useful as scalpel.
 
Location
Loch side.
Just blob a bit of oil on the bolt heads....stops the rust. Seems to have worked very well on my 25 year old plus bikes. Another pointless (IMO) material is alloy for chainring bolts. You've got to be very careful with these.

Alloy? All the bolts in a bicycle are made of alloy.
 
Location
Loch side.
OK Aluminium :ohmy::tongue:
Thaaaat's better. Keep it up.
 
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