Saddle Adjustment

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Glasgow44

Veteran
Hi there

I think I've set my saddle far too high. I've taken my bike to the bike shop where I bought it and let them do it because I'm too scared to do it myself having heard horror stories about damage carbon frames/carbon seatposts, etc and this particular bike is not cheap. To put you in the picture, I have a shortness in one leg, therefore I need to be spot on with saddle height as its a sort of trade off between my left leg being too low and my right leg (the shorter of the two) borderline when it comes to saddle height. I've already got shims underneath my cleats on my shorter leg. I'm probably going to take it back to the bike shop on Monday and let them adjust it for me again although I am tempted to try it myself. It does look fairly easy and I do have a multi tool to unscrew and a multitool/torque wrench to tighten. There is also a guide of dots at the back of saddle too which would help. My understanding is that I unscrew with the multitool and then tighten with the multitool until I feel resistance then switch to the torque wrench - is that correct? I know I'm being a bit of drama but I'm scared! I also bought fibre grip in case its required. What do you think? Any pointers/recommendations?

Thanks in advance

J
 
Last edited:

T.M.H.N.E.T

Rainbows aren't just for world champions
Location
Northern Ireland
What's the difference in mm
 

Ian H

Ancient randonneur
Depending on the amount of difference, you can put a plate under one cleat. Half the difference in leg length is the usual.
 

T.M.H.N.E.T

Rainbows aren't just for world champions
Location
Northern Ireland
Maybe 3/4 of an inch
That would be a lot of stack to make up, realistically you're in the realm of having a bike fit. You could probably lower the saddle height with no real disadvantage to the long leg but at the same time the difference could end up (if it hasn't already) causing saddle issues, inc sores, hip drop etc
 
OP
OP
G

Glasgow44

Veteran
That would be a lot of stack to make up, realistically you're in the realm of having a bike fit. You could probably lower the saddle height with no real disadvantage to the long leg but at the same time the difference could end up (if it hasn't already) causing saddle issues, inc sores, hip drop etc
I agree. I've thought seriously about a bike fit but I still have a shortness in my leg!
 

T.M.H.N.E.T

Rainbows aren't just for world champions
Location
Northern Ireland
Well yeah, that's not going away unfortunately. It's not beyond adjusting for though, adjustments that may be a sum of small changes rather than one big one
 
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3/4" is a significant difference. My suggestion would be to initially adjust the saddle height to suit your longer leg. A bike fit if necessary. And then compensate for your shorter leg by splitting the difference between a 10mm shorter crank and +/- 9mm of shims.
Running two different length cranks has its own particular issues. Cranks generally (depending on the model) come in 5mm increments. Any more than a 10mm difference you'll feel in the gearing. By shortening the crank you're effectively raising the gearing for your shorter leg. Cleat shims have their own particular issues. Shoe and pedal makers go to great lengths to minimise the distance from the bottom of your foot to the pedal axle - for stability, comfort and efficiency. Cleat stacks, like platform shoes, are not great for pedaling. So sharing it out will minimise the negatives.

You could then try dropping your saddle incrementally (up to 3 or 4mm) and reducing your cleat stack height by the same amount until you find the least worst saddle height for both legs.

This is definitely something worth spending some time on to get it right. It'll make all the difference to your comfort, efficiency and your enjoyment of being on the bike. And don't ever think that it's set in stone. I had a pair of LOOK cleats on a pair of shoes for six months and then one day I became aware that one of the cleats wanted moving a couple of degrees. Don't be afraid to go backwards and forwards until you get it spot on.

But first you must become confident in your ability to adjust your own saddle height.
 
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Glasgow44

Veteran
3/4" is a significant difference. My suggestion would be to initially adjust the saddle height to suit your longer leg. A bike fit if necessary. And then compensate for your shorter leg by splitting the difference between a 10mm shorter crank and +/- 9mm of shims.
Running two different length cranks has its own particular issues. Cranks generally (depending on the model) come in 5mm increments. Any more than a 10mm difference you'll feel in the gearing. By shortening the crank you're effectively raising the gearing for your shorter leg. Cleat shims have their own particular issues. Shoe and pedal makers go to great lengths to minimise the distance from the bottom of your foot to the pedal axle - for stability, comfort and efficiency. Cleat stacks, like platform shoes, are not great for pedaling. So sharing it out will minimise the negatives.

You could then try dropping your saddle incrementally (up to 3 or 4mm) and reducing your cleat stack height by the same amount until you find the least worst saddle height for both legs.

This is definitely something worth spending some time on to get it right. It'll make all the difference to your comfort, efficiency and your enjoyment of being on the bike. And don't ever think that it's set in stone. I had a pair of LOOK cleats on a pair of shoes for six months and then one day I became aware that one of the cleats wanted moving a couple of degrees. Don't be afraid to go backwards and forwards until you get it spot on.

But first you must become confident in your ability to adjust your own saddle height.

Thanks - this is very helpful and you're correct in saying that I need to be confident with adjusting the saddle
 
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