Sash windows..

[ColinJ]

I have 2 left on my Victorian terrace. One is coming out to be converted to a rear door. The upstairs one is being replaced with a modern window. It is a bit sad to loose original features but it isn't a conservation zone. I might replace the aluminium front windows with plastic sash not the lookalike ones.

Couldn't you do what Ian H did...?

We replaced ours with new, as original but with double-glazed units. Pretty much indistinguishable from the old ones unless you look closely. Not the cheapest option, but they keep the old house looking respectable. Plus, they slide smoothly (with rather more momentum due to the weight of the double-glazing and much heavier sash-weights).

 

[MichaelW2]

Couldn't you do what Ian H did...?

Were the new ones wood or plastic. Some of the uPVC ones seem pretty good.

 

[ColinJ]

Were the new ones wood or plastic. Some of the uPVC ones seem pretty good.

I took his post to mean wood with sealed glass units?

 

[slowmotion]

We replaced a couple of our 1880s windows with double glazed equivalents. They were made in Latvia on CNC machines and came pre-finished. They were not cheap but they are really well made with narrow timber glazing bars, and slide smoothly with all the correct draughtproofing strips, lead weights etc.

 

[MontyVeda]

'Sash Services' say:

It Is important to keep sash cords free of paint.

When decorating (ask your decorator to apply Vaseline to the ropes prior to painting to ensure that the ropes continue to look smart and function properly).

My sash cords have clearly been painted many many times (only once by me). The paint dries and cracks on the cord and the cords continue to function normally.

Doesn't the paint crack and fall off as the rope passes over the pulleys?

it cracks but stays on.

 

[MontyVeda]

Work of the devil. They either jammed or slammed down on your fingers.

if they slam on your fingers, they have no counterweight. If they jam, they have no counterweights and are badly maintained.

 

[MontyVeda]

What order to paint them in.. Rope first, or last?

Are you planning on painting the window frames?

If so, in an ideal world, you remove the beading and remove the windows, painting (and sanding) them horizontally on a trestle, one frame at a time, preferably in summer as you'll be boarding up the window whilst the work's being done. It can all be done from inside, but it's a big job if you want to do it properly... I didn't.

 

[PeteXXX]

Are you planning on painting the window frames?

If so, in an ideal world, you remove the beading and remove the windows, painting (and sanding) them horizontally on a trestle, one frame at a time, preferably in summer as you'll be boarding up the window whilst the work's being done. It can all be done from inside, but it's a big job if you want to do it properly... I didn't.

The first, and last time I did sash windows 'properly' I refitted the weights the wrong way round. It took me ages to work out why, as soon as I undid the catch, that the top one headed downwards and the bottom one rose

 

[tyred]

They always seemed to be an overly complicated piece of engineering to me. What is wrong with a window that just opens out?

 

[MontyVeda]

They always seemed to be an overly complicated piece of engineering to me. What is wrong with a window that just opens out?

versatility... you can open them at the bottom or top, and due to the way they're designed, the condensation always ends up outside

 

[Cuchilo]

Fantastic window that has stood the test of time and will carry on doing so . If you want to do a total refurb and add draft proofing Mighton products sell a parting bead with a brush added and a staff bead with the same brush .https://www.mightonproducts.com/products/sash-window-hardware/weatherstripping-beads
They also come pre primed so you just need to top coat them .
Cut the chords on the lower sash and remove the staff bead . Remove bottom sash . cut the top sash chords and lower the top sash . Remove the parting beads and you have access to the pockets where the weights are . Make a mouse out of a sink plug chain or a bit of lead and add string . Tie the string to the new sash chord and pull it down over the pulley until you have it on the inside of the pocket . Leave long and repeat for each weight .
Put it all back together the same way you took it apart .

 

[Globalti]

They are an elegant device and new ones are especially nice to use as they slide so smoothly.

 

[Ian H]

I took his post to mean wood with sealed glass units?